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Budget Board Improvement (Tacon 160, VESC, Chain drive)

tacon
vesc

#1

So I recently built my own board, but I didn’t create a post for unknown reasons. Well I thought I would share my end result and ask a few questions.

Here are my specs

  • The board is a 38" black drop through (Link)
  • The trucks and wheels are Paris V2s with Flywheel clones (83mm) (Link)
  • The motor is the Tacon 160 245kv - I was lucky to get it before it ran out of stock
  • The Motor mount is homemade from 2 soldered sheets of 16 gauge steel that are welded to two other bits that bolt through the truck. In hindsight this was way too much work and money as I should have bought caliber II trucks and a bolt on mount.
  • I chose to go with a chain drive because I wanted a more durable ride and better transfer of power with no slippage. It took me forever to find the right parts but for a 2:1 ratio here are the links (Link for motor sprocket) (Link for wheel sprocket)
  • I mounted the wheel pulley with 2 3d printed retainers (Link), some aluminum spacers, m4 bolts, and nylon locking nuts
  • I also needed #25 chain (Link), a #25 half link to increase tension (If you know how chains link together this should make sense) (Link), and a master link that came with the chain
  • The batteries are 2x 4s 10Ah 10C Lipos wired in series that I got on sale for $30 each (Link)
  • The esc is a VESC from OllinBoardCo (Link)
  • Nyko Karma White w/ dongle from OllinBoardCo
  • The wires were from my own supply (12 Gauge)
  • Multiple XT60 connectors (Link)
  • One XT90 anti-spark loop key (Link)
  • 2 absolute crap 3 way toggle switches (Link)
  • Capacity monitor (Link)
  • JSTXH connectors wired as extensions
  • Some plastic tubing from a local hardware store
  • Hot glue
  • Two plastic tubs from target that I dremeled down to the right hight and mounted with some screws
  • Added some DIY bumpers with tubing and cable ties

All in all its awesome and ridiculously fun to ride

Some things to note about the board

  • Unknown weight (Will find out soon)
  • Geared for 35 mph (Way too fast I need a smaller motor pulley)
  • Rang seems to be around 20 miles although I got to 14mi with 45% left
  • Broke enclosure once already but replaced for $3
  • I tried to use 3 way switches to charge batteries in enclosure without opening it

Now there are numerous problems

  • The 3A/240V switches work fine when in position and just drawing Amps (I drew the max 60 and no damage), but they are trash when I switch them on to turn on the board they spark and melt the small contact point making it difficult to turn back on again. I’ve replaced one once, but now its really starting to get on my nerve.

  • I already drilled 4 holes for the mount and created the enclosure so I’m not sure if I can drill more. Ideally I want to be able to have an enclosure like this (Link) and I can just open it to charge and config esc while having the capacity monitor mounted somewhere. I also need a switch of some sort but can’t find one that has a high A rating (I don’t really want to spend $60 on a power switch from torqueboards) Any solutions?

  • The motor cup (or outershell [not sure of name]) can be pulled slightly out of the inner cylinder but only like 1.5mm can someone explain?

Any help and/or input is appreciated thanks!


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#2

The CAN

Need to switch the grub nuts to bolts

And also may mean there is movement in your motor mount which is forcing it to move or some sort of tention pulling or pushing the shaft Edit: if tention is the case I’m gonna suspect your mount is slightly out of alignment


#3

You need to make and anti-spark loop key using Xt90


#4

I did, its in the post


#5

Then disconnect that, turn the board on, then plug in the antispark?


#6

Yeah I tried that and it worked… 60% of the time. It would still spark and now the switch is stuck and won’t turn on. I’m not entirely sure of what to do now. Any suggestions?


#7

What would still spark?


#8

Need a new switch it’s burned out


#9

The three way switch on the loop key side.


#10

The wires are so short in there I would have to rewire everything, thats why I’m asking for suggestions for a new Vesc enclosure


#11

How is it sparking when the loop is pulled out? The loop should be in series with the switch which means NO power at all will flow until the loop is in. Something doesn’t sound right.


#12

That is the suggestion…re-wire and neaten it up…and top key thing…something sound odd

Draw a diagram of your wiring and post it up

Also see:


#13

It was sparking the switch when I pushed the XT90S in. I’ve abandoned the three way switches in favor of a simple loop key with a dry box enclosure


#14

I’ve decided to abandon the three way switch idea, but I’ll post the diagram because it would work if I could find a high amp toggle switch.


#15

how loud is the chain drive?