(Better than Freeboard) Bindings! finished 3d printable design in post#209!


#41

Yeh a design to work upon would be great… im not into 3d modeling but perhaps if we had something to go on, it would be a lot easier to improve it over time


#42

Sharing to the 3D masters
napkin, but don’t have time to make somethng better than ths right now

You have a post maybe 70mm tall on legs (in pic it’s a base) Instead imagine having the base as one of akhlut’s x-things mounted onto the skate truck holes.

There are 3 lines of ratchet notches(2 may be better) running up to the top allowing you to have a foot mount which has a large ring which goes onto the rachet pole, the ring would have 2/3ratchet clips built into it.

Depress the clips which have springs in them of course and you can swivel the mount regular to goofy and also adjust for height

Threaded bar with securing nuts could be substituted


#43

@banjaxxed Idea about a metal rod, which makes the binding adjustable looks good…

Though, do u have any ideas from what material to make the actual binding? Would it be possible to bypass 3d printing at all and use something already existing?


Same problem im facing with mud guards… would be cool if something was easy to be made with existing materials and resources… otherwise it goes back to 3d modeling and 3d printing once again


#44

It’s a problem, I don’t think 3D printed parts could survive the stress, but maybe if bolstered with something like a metal bar through a channel of the foot part…carbon wrapping is an alternative


#45

I’d be happy to take a crack at it


#46

Maybe some fiberglass would work too?


#47

I would be happy to help, both with modeling and stress considerations.
Can you describe (generally) what is the goal? Maybe with pictures.

Dani


#48

Now we’re talking! Tentative name

ToeJam


#49

I could make a rough paper projection of what it could be… but what we really need here, is exact dimensions and the form / mounting structure…

@banjaxxed I also imagine something, where u can insert steel/metal bars into, to make it more sturdy/durable, as im not sure how strong regular abs/pla plastic might be…

As these are the most regular used ones, since PETG takes some tinkering and not all beginner level printers can print it decently, I guess…


#50

Could you post some pictures, and rough sketches can also help.
I believe it can be done with no exotic materials/filament.

Thanks,
Dani


#51

I agree. 100% solid infill would be fine for this application. They are meant to loosely grip you, not do jump tricks.


#52

Wait what?


#53

I would like to be able to at least do a ‘jump turn around’ if I’m strapped in like that


#54

You really think freebords are that strong? They look flimsy to me


#55

As far I know freeboard bindings do that just fine… check some @okp videos

Not sure, if @Riako uses s2 bindings a lot, but if u do, can u comment on ease of use, when jumping with these bindings?

Personally, that would be part of the goal - create bindings, with which u can make jumps while also be able to get out of them easily and not glue your feet to them…


#56

I’m even more interested now. I thought they were basically street bindings for tight turns.


#57

I will post some of the original S2 Binding pictures here…

I think what we need here is the same ‘platform’ - Adjustable metal ‘base’, which supports the ‘L’ type structure and holds it in place.

Seems, like some pre-machined or close to that metal parts might be needed… Hard to say whenever metal part can be replaced with plastic ones here…


I even found a guy saying slipping of feet occurs, so he came up with a solution to make the bindings more ‘sticky’ / locked in:

I even found the metal plate for sale seperately here:

http://www.iboardnz.com/store/product/33/s2-baseplate

So, in theory we could use the original plate (if same purchase is possible in usa / eu shops) and then just 3d model / print out own ‘feet holder’ part…

Dont want to sound cheap but I see this as the easy way to chop off 40$ off the total price.

I assume wont be really viable for outsourcing 3d printing to someone commercially but for these who have access to 3d printers, final cost should be determined based on how much filament it might take…

Either way… the math here is that plastic part costs more, if the shipping cost of just the metal plate inside the user base continents, doesnt make buying the complete kit more worthwhile…


#58

Thank you for posting these.
It seems like the topper can be 3d printed. And the base part createvely designed.

Their base part is a simple metal sheet, laser cut and then bent around 90deg. Very simple.

So what is the main issue with these?
Is it the price or something that they don’t deliver? Something that you wished was there but isn’t?

Looking for the most info here.
Dani


#59

The guy who sells them from freebord HATES esk8 and went off on a child like rant about it


#60

For me… it is just price mostly, the rest of mountainboard bindings can be sourced for close to 15-20 usd, I think. Not saying new condition in all cases but decently lower than 60usd + shipping…

Secondly, I think the design might offer some disadvantages, as it does seem rather open… Here I see the opportunity to make it somewhat more ‘sticky’ / locked in, than the original design…

At least that was the issue the guy on the website was tackling, that the feet got out anyway.


So yeh… if this was 3d printable… in lets 1-2 days time and plate bought seperately / machined or 3d printed, would save some money on shipping cost + item price, for sure…

I understand 60usd might not be much for many better / deeper pocketed esk8 builders… but non the less, if it can be made on your own and possibly better while also saving some coin… why not


To me it is mostly about availability… and ~70 Eur for bindings alone, definitely is not the area u want to spend extra money on, if some of that coin can be used for better battery / motors, for example.