Hmm, I can try something like that.
Consider printing in Nylon. PETG can be brittle, especially compared to Nylon… I’ve never had a Nylon part break, only flex to the point where it was unusable in that design (and used further beefed up designs to compensate).
Since using Nylon, I only really use PETG when I want the print to be easier to print and is non-load bearing or the design is super beefy enough that if it were load bearing, that huge chunk of PETG I print will for sure be able to handle it.
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I got a few parts to upgrade my ender3 to all metal hotend and direct drive. Maybe I can print Nylon. Is there a cheaper brand that you suggest? Taulman is just too expensive.
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What I would suggest is only making it thicker, or them it wouldn’t fit?
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I use inland brand Nylon, sold at microcenter. I don’t know how it compares to all the tulman stuff, it’s way too expensive for me as well so I’ve just never tried it, but the inland stuff works flawlessly for me in application. It’s like $15/kg
Keep in mind if you go this route, it’s a bit more involved than PLA or PETG. You print ABS, so you know warping and how to mitigate it I assume, just expect to have to dry the filament occasionally in the oven prior to printing, and store in a dry box.
$15/kg is amazing. I’ll get my hands on a box soon then.
Yeah, I have an enclosure and a drybox with desiccant packets, so I guess I am ready. The drybox maintains the relative humidity at 13% or so.
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It will fit, that’s probably the easiest thing to do.
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If you could made the 4 pts 
(
I’m going with the 2nd point for me…)
Your design looks so strong and better-proof ! Big Up 
I can imagine it like the ultimate-guard 
after the last one on the background :
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The inland stuff is $17/lb not /kg. I was researching on the printability of nylon and came to the conclusion that Taulman bridge($25/lb) or Taulman 910($36/lb) are vastly superior. Also 910 has crazy tensile strength, so that might be especially useful for my NESE modules.
Anyway to cut the story short, I bought a 1lb spool of Taulman 910 
Will let everyone know if it it’s worth the hype.
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Oh, good catch!
I guess it’s not the best deal then, well… let me know how the 910 works out for you I might have to pick some up next time.
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My second try at magnetic charging connector that I found was a fail too. @Maxid, what I mentioned today about the male half short circuiting itself, was wrong. I agree, it would solve the problem if I were to press a button to start the charge, but then that’s one more step. I would rather just plug in the standard 2.5mm connector and let it charge.
I’ll reiterate since other’s don’t know what I am talking about. Basically I got 2 of these magnetic charging connector as sample from alibaba a long time ago. It worked but sparks flew each time, and got bigger bigger and didn’t work finally.
Closer inspection led me to believe that since I was supplying power through the male(one with raised connector), it was somehow getting shorted during the mating process for a brief second and hence sparked. So I decided to flip the male and female connector on my second attempt. I was so sure this would work. But alas you can see in the video below, I still have the same problem. I guess spark happens due to the sudden inrush of current as the mating has even barely begun. Also what exacerbates the problem is that the connectors are tiny themselves. Sparks fly very easily from pointed surfaced. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gM1nnWiuVq7wJEwcA
@JTAG, is there a way to avoid the sudden rise of current during charging. The tiny magnetic connectors can handle 2A or so without getting hot but it’s sparking at the beginning of the mating. If not, I guess I just have to get bigger pogo pins.
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The BMS had a diode at its input so the BMS is not delivering the current or power for the spark, it is likely because the charger presents the voltage on the connector and that is briefly shorted during the mating cycle. I am afraid I can’t fix that.
You could mate the connector and then apply mains to the charger 
but that might not be the most ideal solution.
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Broken Wheel Guards Update:
I broke all the guards, front and rear, left and right. Didn’t matter whether printed in PETG or ABS. So made the main curvy part thicker 2.4mm(from 2mm) to increase stiffness, decrease vibration and reduce fatigue. Also reinforced the areas which actually broke. Also made the wheel guards a bit slimmer , which I think looks modern. Looks almost flush with the wheels.
Have ridden about a 100km on the updated wheel guards and they haven’t failed me yet. So I am not using the Taulman 910 alloy yet(I would rather use it to make super high strength parts like clamps and stuff). I have updated the thingiverse link with the latest designs.
The latest design which has held up for more than 100km was printed out of some cheap red pla. I recently painted them black. I didn’t put much effort into sanding them this time, you can see that in the paint finish. Also another thing to note is that the front clamps are now 3D printed too(in PETG), ditched the spare TB clamps.
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Really love the build and the parts list! How are the specs on this board speed and range wise?
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Thank you 
I forgot what my theoretical top speed is but I regularly ride above 40kmph(27mph). Max is 44 on the app. Range is a bit more than 16 km(10miles). Vesc goes into a low battery mode after that, but still one is able to use it. I haven’t tested the true full range…
Below is a screenshot from my metr pro app. I had already accumulated 300km(186miles) before I installed metr pro.
Oh my head!
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I am a metric man. Being in the USA has me using both of them and now I don’t keep track.
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These days I had an idea of making removable and foldable mud guards, really compact to be always on the backpack and just a few seconds to install all four
The project is a bit on hold since the rain stopped for a few weeks
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just went for a spin on my board, it is just awesome! so comfy
I have only some overcurrent issues that are really anoying, it cuts off hard when accelerating to fast, it throws me off balance, don’t want that when doing 41kph (damn, that is quick 
)
My setup:
- 2x 6365 170kv
- 2x vesc 4.12
- DieBieMS
- 10s3P (samsung 30Q)
- 1:4 pulley ratio
I ran the auto detect (without wheels and belts) and VESCtool came with motor current of 58A I’m not sure how VESC handles the max batt current, is it per VESC or in total I would rather have a slow cutoff instead of this harsh one.
Are you connected through canbus? Then you get both the VESC data combined but for split ppm, no.
Try setting the motor current to lower. And give it one more try on a steep incline. That way you consume high current but not going fast.
Actually, ask Trampa on the VESC tool 2019 thread how overcurrent happens if vesc decides the max current.