What do you finish your prints with?
Rust-Oleum semi gloss clear coat
How do you fill the layer lines? Filler primer?
I did that before and results weren’t that great. Now I water sand it first with coarse paper, then spray normal paint primer, dry(1day) and then wet sand with fine paper, dry, paint-primer and top coat after 10 mins.
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looks epic.
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Thanks 
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BTW, how’s your board coming along?
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stuck in limbo. CNC is currently broken down, but we will make our own cnc. So no more problems then.
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What I liked most about them is that you don’t really notice the guards at first glance
If the rain continues here I may do something similar, thanks for the inspiration
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I printed your grab handle thinking that it would be bolted down using the truck screws, removing the need to drill the deck.
I was wrong.
Anyway, any chance you can modify the handle so that it would work as I described? Maybe instead of two legs it can be a whole plate that covers the baseplate area so all 4 baseplate holes are used? Kinda like a reverse riser.
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How did you decide on the arc the guards follow? Isn’t more coverage better?
I can make it but I won’t trust the 3D printed parts with the torque required to keep the trucks bolted on.
Just get 4 wood screws and your good with the part that you printed.
Water comes off at a tangent. They are made so that for my board(double drop), it does wet the board(rom bottom or top) or me.
I finally had the time to open the enclosure and put the Metr Pro in there. It works with the latest vesc app and also the metr app. It can also talk to the DieBieMS so I can see voltage of individual p groups. I’ll take some ride logs today.
Also have ridden in rain/snow 3-4 time this last week and when I opened it to put the metr pro, I didn’t notice any water in there. So happy that the thick grease waterproofing worked.
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My first log. I purposely kept the ride non exciting to see an example of an efficient ride.
From vesc-tool(average of 14wh/km)
From metr pro( average of 44/3.2=13.75wh/km)
You mean 13.75wh/km right? 
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The front left one broke, precisely where I thought it might. Since it’s supported at one end it vibrates like a cantilever and broke under fatigue failure. It broke when I was riding over some rough patch of street (that I ride on everyday). I have the following solution in mind.
- Increase thickness in the area that broke
- Skin it in carbon fiber
- Make changes in design to incorporate rods in radial fashion.
- Change material to PETG(the current front ones are ABS)
Any suggestions? Maybe @Pedrodemio, @Maxid @Riako?
After
Before
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If you add radial ribbing perpendicular to the face of the piece it should add a lot of strength and not a lot of material
The problem is only in the interface because inside it can’t move and outside it can. So basically that’s an area of high stress concentration.
No point in going for ribbing, if I am thickening only a small area.
Do you need all the set screws? If not you can add a ‘cup’ around the mounting hardware and that will allow a connection with reinforcements