Yes, but torque listed above is a 1:1 ratio. As far as I know motorcycle figures are done the same way.
Edit: You can’t just multiply torque by gearing,can you? For instance a 1Nm motor with 1:10 gearing could not produce 100Nm? Maybe I’m wrong 
In that case it would be 10nm, and not 100 
1 multiplied by 10.
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Whatever the math, beasts!
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I’m afraid I don’t understand the keys. So I have 2 M3 grub screws that go into the 3mm key slot carved into the motor shaft? What does the key slot in the pulley do?
Sorry, I’m new to electric long boarding
@chocol4te keyslot is meant to allow the motor shaft to turn with the pulley so it’s not held on by bolts solely. Otherwise your motor pulley will rotate around the motor shaft. It’s better to be able to use a keyway.
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I am very new to this whole thing and am looking at these motors as well. Could someone help me out and tell me what the differences and under what conditions I should choose a higher kv vs a lower one? I know that higher means less torque. I ask because I am a 6’6" 290 pounds and am looking for a dude mover in an area with lots of hills. Thinking about doing a this on an AT style board as my first DYI and since I am new would like a smooth acceleration curve with the power.
Any information would be appreciated.
Rated to 80a. Assuming you gear it to the same top speed, torque is a function of max current only, so these should be identical torque vs sk3 6374 192 kv (assuming you believe the amperage ratings from hobby king).
At 12s, 80a, the sk3s dissipate about 4 percent of the electrical power as heat, so approx 96 percent efficient. Assuming the 6384 is slightly lower resistance, they would be more efficient than that, but by how much? There’s not much room left.
Don’t think it’s worth it frankly. At least not from a theoretical performance perspective. Bearing durability, wire durability, can balancing etc is a different story. Having never seen the aps in person, would not be able to say
Maybe it isn’t worth the extra money but I wanted to have hall sensors and 170KV instead of 190KV. The motors were about AUD 120 more expensive than the SK3 6374.
Seen a number of posts recently with APS 6384 failures. Magnet retainer ring breaking or getting loose. Grub screw for the axis will loosen.
He’s not the only one. Mainly dirt off-road through the forests around here. No way a regular esk8 would survive.
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Mines are still holding pretty good.
I had to disassemble them and use epoxy on the retainer rings though, afterwards their keep holding pretty good.
Currently I’m testing the Torqueboards 6380 motors which are the same as the 6384s 200kv from APS but with 8mm axles instead of 10mm, they will power the @kaly direct drives
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Hi. Someone can contribute their opinions of these APS engines to their competitors (sk3, etc)
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6384s 170kv
Dual 6384 170kv since two weeks
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Don’t get the titel wrong I still wait 2x 6374 motors, so at the moment I run dual 6384 motors. In the last posts you can read my opinion about the motors.
If you located in the us go for the torque board 6380 ones. The 8mm shaft is more compatible with other equipment.
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Dual 6384 170KV, maybe the first ones. Still in the box since over a year. Need to finish my build 
Where do I buy a motor mount for a 6384 motor
By reading
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The man…thank you, thank you. I have bought these then realized they didnt state the shaft length so i could order the pulleys.
Gotta love this forum
Where did you get that wheel spur gear from please ? What material it is ?