3D Printed Boosted Board Killer

Interested in how the battery performs after continuous braking downhill. I’m aware of some issues that other boards have with this. Would love to hear about your own personal experience :grinning:

This is because you can only put 12amps back into the battery. If your on a 10% grade hill with 200 lb, your brakes will feel weak as you Don’t have anywhere to put the power your motors generate. So you have to generate less braking.

You have to remember you motor has to sets of magnets. You can send power to the stator electro magnet, which pushes your rotators permenant magnets (ie acceleration) or vice versa (ie regen braking). Your motor generates power, but with no wheels to put it, it can’t turn it in to braking.

Smaller lion batteries have this issue, which is why most regular members are turning to 12s6p or higher these days. I think I had one of the smallest batteries in the Vegas meetup for example which was basically a 12s3p in size.

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20190601_084519

Anti Spark is working great. Let me know if you need help. I may even build a few more and sell it with @Pryside 's permission.

Did anyone try using Pryside´s remote? How did you set it up in vesc tool?

Will sell my own pcb soon, want to make some small changed, so in 2-3 weeks an ebay page should go up

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Set it up as uart/nunchuck 115200 baud. Needs vesc FW 3.x, will not work on the old FW 2.18 altough I can easily make a alternative reciever version if some want this.

ebay page will come soon :slight_smile:

Had it configured for my pins on my reciever board. now changed it to the more common RF24 radio(9, 10); where pin 9 and 10 get used for spi

If it was a connection issue that should fix it.

sry for late answer. (I’ll write here the same as I wrote in DMs so everybody knows)

  1. nope not needed, but If you want to hide your flat copper wires, you should definitly do so.
  2. Main Idea was for 12V leds and phone charger with a small dc dc on the inside, but not used yet and just left it there for creative ideas
  3. M5, and I just screwed them in the way it is currently but would recommend just using some 2k epoxy and put a bit around the nut place it in there and let it dry, that should do the job.
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Due to the strong censorship on this website, and many great builders getting banned I created the same thread over here. I will stay active on both for now, but looks like this forum will die soon. https://forum./t/3d-printed-boosted-board-killer/2247

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Did you ever think about sending the UART data from your BMS over to your firefly remote? Also, did you disable the bms for discharge?

Hm… what exactly do you have in mind, because other then soc theres not much interesting data to read from a bms. And soc is currently indicated by a voltage bar on the remote… so no real need for that i think

Hey Pryside can I use your anti spark with a voltage of 22.2V (6s).Or must I use other mosfets.

Hi Leo,

How did you open your torqueboards motor and which waterproofing agent did you use?

Greetings,

daniel

I would not do that, because the voltage must be very high because of the voltage spikes

@pryside does your antispark design have any current draw when off? Do you have a link for your eBay store so we can watch for when it becomes available there? :nerd_face:

Hi leo, I have a couple of questions for you:

  • Which glue did you use to fix the magnets in the motor?

  • How did you open up the motor?

  • Which waterproofing agent did you use for all of the circuit boards?

  • Should I use a TVS diode for my torqueboards esc running on 10s, and if so, which one would you remommend, or which breakdown voltage should it have?

  • Can I charge my 10s4p battery pack with a 10s 30A BMS, or is it recommended that you charge batteries separately from the BMS with a balanced charger?

Does anyone else maybe know any answers to my questions?

Any help would really be appreciated!

  • Which glue did you use to fix the magnets in the motor? IDK
  • How did you open up the motor? There are a few tiny screw on the side of the motor. take those off and you should be able to pull the bottom side. Magents are strong so, pull it hard. make sure you put loctite on the screws when you are putting them back in.
  • Which waterproofing agent did you use for all of the circuit boards?
    not sure what he used, but this is a good one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  • Should I use a TVS diode for my torqueboards esc running on 10s, and if so, which one would you remommend, or which breakdown voltage should it have?
    yeah TVS diode can help 10s as well. Get one with a breakdown voltage higher than 42 but close. search mouser.com
  • Can I charge my 10s4p battery pack with a 10s 30A BMS, or is it recommended that you charge batteries separately from the BMS with a balanced charger?
    The bms that he is using does balance charging so there is no need to use a separate charger, However, you need to input 10s voltage using a power supply. I would get a 60A BMS because BMS is gonna handle discharge as well.
    https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/14s-bluetooth-lithium-e-bike-battery-pcb-board-with-30a-constant-charge-and-discharge-current-2/
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Hi,

I have seen you on the other forum for the firefly remote to lol :slight_smile:

I am also going build the antispark system from leo. Is yours already finished? How high was the wattage of your wire resistor?

And Leo, what do you mean by “a quite high power rating” for your wire resistor?

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