3D Printed Boosted Board Killer

ESK8 Builds
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Thank you very much for the help. I also made a list of components for the anti spark board. Do you mind taking a quick look at it @Pryside ?

  • Power switch >> not sure what to get. please help!
  • 4X 1M Ohm Resistors (R1,2,4,5) >> Metal Film Resistors - Through Hole 1M ohm 1% 0.4W

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Welwyn-Components-TT-Electronics/MFR3-1M0FC?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBIJtQxnYsq7hXit92tIgpI8A%3D

  • 1X 15 Ohm Resistor(R6) >> Wirewound Resistors - Through Hole 3W 15 Ohm 5%

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yageo/PNP300JR-73-15R?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtlubZbdhIBINt%2Ft6Hry3%2FBZn3Gyw1qhA0%3D

  • 1X 1 OHM Resistor ( R3) >> Wasnā€™t able to find a wire resistor. What is the part number that you used?

  • 3X 12V Zener Diodes(D1,2,3) >> Zener Diodes 12V 3W

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/1N5927BRLG?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2FJ7m6e1KBCgub6c2uyKgC%2BY%3D

  • 1X 16V 4.7Ī¼F Capacitors(C1) >> Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Radial Leaded 16volts 4.7uF

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/USP1C4R7MDD?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%2B1woXyUXj7onzYv6nMPCw8k8X5hq4n8%3D

  • 2X IRFS7530 Transistors(T1)

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/IRFS7530TRL7PP?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2FWi%2BDdTe3kt8oihq%2FEFTk6nI%2BSM6z%2BASO6Fg%3D%3D

  • 1X IRFB3006 Transistor(T2)

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/IRFB3006GPBF?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2FWi5%2BqVgN3%2BWS8frDEDJEFm2A%3D

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Iā€™m totally building this board. I got more questions for you @Pryside . I wish you would update the post with more details. That would be nice to share the complete part list.

  1. Is 60 AMP enough for BMS? Should I buy one with higher or lower current? I found a smaller version that supports 20A and found another with 100A. https://www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/13s-48v-li-ion-battery-pcb-board-54-6v-lithium-bms-with-60a-discharge-current-for-electric-motorcycle-and-e-scooter-protection-2-2-3-2-2-2-2-2/ This question was answered and I went with the 60A BMS: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/noob-question-thread-ask-your-questions-here/9559/6937?u=farnamweb

  2. Are you using the following motor mount ? Is there a cheaper alternative? https:///collections/electric-skateboard-motor-mounts/products/single-bolt-on-motor-mount-set-only-black

  3. What is the belt length? 265?

  4. I can buy LG HG2 for $3.5/cell. Same capacity and extra 5 AMPs ( 20A) . Should I get HG2 instead? This was answered here: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/noob-question-thread-ask-your-questions-here/9559/6950?u=farnamweb

    Will buy 30Q

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126

Has anyone modified the code so it will work with the ā€œTTGO LORA32 868/915Mhz ESP32ā€ 128x64 screen? Iā€™m trying to build the Firefly nano remote but I would love to have features like an Odometer and cruise control on it.

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Iā€™m using an I2C 128x64 Oled. Not ready to share yet tho. Never tested. IMG_20190422_231351

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Can you send gerber files? Thanks (What is that 8 pin for? next to Q3ā€¦) I guess 3 pin Mosfet could be used right?

129

just use another wirewound resistor like r6, should be fine, with a quite high power rating. Dont really remember wich one I picked and on my PCB there will be some changes and a quite different precharge fet and resistor to save space.

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  1. Ignore these stupid current ratings. The 60A BMS can handle pulsed up to 1500A but thats not the reason. You want to buy something that is somewhat in the range of what you will be using. 60A * 3,6V on a 10S is 2.2kW you will never ever use that much power for more than a few seconds so 60A is pretty save. I calculated the losses at 60A and they were around 7W so no problem there.

  2. Yes, they are quite terrible and took me like a week to set up correctly. Would propably try the electricboardsolutions.com

  3. nope, running on the MBS AT 100mm and 38T there and 15T on the motor so I had to use 280 HTD 5M 12mm wide belts.

  4. yeah any cell would work, just take a look at their internal resistance and you can pull a lot more pulsed power than what they are rated.

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Will publish all Antispark stuff very soon :slight_smile:

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Thanks man

I got this mount and belt . The mount has an idler which is interesting . The seller calculated the belt length for me. Itā€™s 320

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@matiller helped me find the resistor https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/TUW5J1R0E?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidMPY4i6h3AHP%2BV%2BE2e384xE%3D

Iā€™m way to excited to finish the board. Do these changes affect the performance of the board or are they just saving space?

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134

What are your VESC settings for breaking?

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putting a tvs so high up there will destroy its purpose, most transcients wont even reach the caps since you have some inductance from the wires. Put it directly on the pcb as in noiā€™s picture

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-75Amps on the Phases and -10A on the battery are my max settings. May seem high but again pulsed this is perfectly acceptable. Safety is more important then getting 2 more cycles out of your battery.

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is it possible to buy a anti spark from you? would love to build your board as well :slight_smile:

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Capture

Please verify the wiring.

BAT - >> BMS B -
BMS P- >> not connected to anything
BMC C- >> charger port & Anti Sparkā€™s B-

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  1. I just got my Loaded Vanguard Deck. The top has a clear grip coating. Do I still need to install a grip tape?

btw, Loaded is selling new factory blemished decks for $148

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B075NQGJJ8/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

  1. There is one XT60 on the battery case for charging. What is the purpose of the other XT60 on the VESC case?

  2. What size/length bolt and nuts do I need to attach the wheel pulley to the wheel ?

Iā€™m assuming that I need to place a nut on the wheel pulley and bolts on the retainer. In that case, there is no room in the wheel pulley hole to hold down the nut using a nut driver.

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So just to be sure: if you solder a diode that has a polarity you need to solder it with the minus side of the diode to the + of the vesc and the other on the - ?

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Nice work. Clean, looks a lot like a boosted but much better Iā€™m sure.

Butā€¦ I will pick you on your numbers, haha.

5000w/50.4 = 99 amps needed. But hereā€™s the catchā€¦ at 20a, 30qā€™s will drop from 50.4v to 46v while under power. At 35a, I canā€™t imagine what your dropping down to. With a 12s3p, the most power you can physically get from it is 60a at 46v (which is a full charged 12s3p 30q pack under load) = 2760w for more than .1 of a second. In that .1 of a second, the massive amp draw has little effect on operations, so itā€™s a useless number to say you peak 99a. Thus saying you peak 5000w is kinda misleading, none the less advertising 5000w and not stating it as a peak number. Everyone defines peak and continuous differently. So you can twist the definitions so your not technically wrong. But the reality is your more likely using around 2500w max, which is high powered by the premade board market, but itā€™s a very common watt number for a DIY board.

The problem with everyone misusing peak and continuous numbers is they make it hard to compare boards. I actually pull 10,000 watts for .5 seconds, which is significant in my case as Iā€™m already at 15 mph in that half of a second. So I feel 10,000 watts peak is actually a fair statement. Do I just adjust my settings to 20,000 and say 20,000 peak? Iā€™m sure I could hit close to that for .1 of a second, defiantly not the entire half second it takes me to do 0-15 mph as before.

Itā€™s gritting in to the details, I know. But trust me, if you put a lipo in there that actually could do 100a and not sag into a black hole, you would still say your at 5000w and the acceleration would be night and day different, at least 30% faster acceleration. So because thereā€™s no standard as to what these numbers are defined as and the lose definitions we have are bent so often, itā€™s unfortunately really hard to compare one board to another without riding both (which is not possible 90%+ of the time on the forums).

Still love your design though. Just get a smaller 12s lipo for shits and giggles (like, $150 usd or less), and youā€™ll see a large power increase.

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yes connect it in reverse . but if you use a bidirectional diode like the one below, then you are good either way. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Taiwan-Semiconductor/P6KE56CA?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvS4F1mNSR4OnsH6NOyMirV

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I canā€™t get the remote working. I have uploaded the firmware for RX and TX.TX LCD lights up but I see the Voltage as 0. I also canā€™t control the motors.

  1. I have selected UART under ā€œAPP to Useā€ and UART is set to 115200 under the UART tab. Do I still need to follow the ā€œInput Setup Wizardā€ ? If not, how do I pair TX and RX ?
  2. I can enter the remote menu by holding down the switch and powering on the remote, but I donā€™t know how to change settings there.
  3. Do I need to power on the TX first and RX second?

Vesc : 4.12 with FW3.40
firmware : https://github.com/Pryside/FireFly-Esk8-NRF24/blob/master/libraries
VescUart Lib : https://github.com/SolidGeek/VescUart