i agree with you ill do this as soon as i can
Is there a reason why you choose “Street carve” trucks over “Urbain carve” (reversed asembly) ?
Did you get any info from Trampa about differences in ride handeling ?
the street carve and the urban carve trucks are the same trucks just assemble in reverse. The problem with the urban configuration is that you will not be able to run urethane wheels due to the shape of the hanger, because it will hit the floor with the urethane.
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any news on the motor mounts? Are you selling them now?
Your website is just showing me a blank white page 
great job !!!
Yeah the website I’ll put a banner. Just trying to get everything ready.
This is what is already completed and order to the metal workshop and expected prices.
-Motor mounts with belt tensioner -------------$60.00 -AT pulley kit 62T/16T and belt ------------------$50.00 -40T Aluminum insert pulley w. bearing -------$35.00
- belts HTD 5M varios sizesv---------------------$8/10
- Curve ABS enclosure w. Hardware ---------$60.00
- Motors 6355 239Kv Sensored -----------------$85.00 -Motors 6374 190Kv Sensored ------------------$100.00
I’ll be offering too Ready assemble batteries with enclosure this will be 10S-4P and 12S-4P, as the trampa street carve board too.
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Sounds great. Which belt tensionner are you using (reference?) ?
As of now just a simple solution 3 small bearings with a 5 mm screw and washers.
Something that can be source easily anywhere and affordable.
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Just beware that too bearings damage the belt by flexing it too much, i was using 13mm bearings as tensioner and wasted a lot of belts until i realized this was the problem, going to try 19mm on the next weeks , that is the diameter of the my motor pulley and hopefully will work
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Thank you for the advice, I’ll be using 16mm bearings for the tensioner, my reasoning for the belt tensioner is as follows:
As of now for the urethane configuration 40T/16T the tensioner is not needed because the Center to Center distance allows for proper belt grip on to the pulley. The same goes for the AT setup with 62T/16T.
The belt tensioner will be useful for the different sizes of urethane and pneumatics wheels Trampa is planning to sell in the future, This way we are future proof 
and the distance of the motor plate of mount can be reduce, so not to have the motors sticking out that far from the wheel, because that will damage the look of the whole set up. 
I there a reason you choose High KV on your 6355 motors ?
The coasting is the reason for the 230 Kv. At higher kv the drag is minimum and if you take advantage of coasting properly the battery range can be increase and I willl take that every day.
I am one of the guys that really prefer carving and coasting so the motor with lower Kv motors just kill the fun for me.
Unless you ride in a area with a lots of hills then the lower Kv motors are a necessity in order not to overload the battery and ESC.
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I think you will not like the idler then, from my experience they add a ton of drag. The best coasting experience i had was with 3M belts and no idler, unfortunately they can handle very low torque when using small pulley
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Interesting?,…i never heard that lower kv had more drag ?
I think this is pretty obvious… @Kaly was just smart enough to point this out and make good reasoning… I have observed this myself… when I try to turn my 192kv motor… there is quite a resistance to overcome by hand…
So yeah, kind of cool that @Kaly pointed this out… as this does make a difference, I believe.
Cant really discuss about the idler pulleys part in creating resistance… I just know that tight belt is better than loose one… so it’s just something you gotta use…for a variety of reasons
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Sorta makes sense when you think about all of the super low KV hub motors that have insane drag
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You don’t have to take it from me , You can test this for yourself 
install lower Kv motor and push your board around the neighborhood a couple of times then do the same with a set of high Kv motors on the board and let me know how it goes.
@Pedrodemio you are right I don’t use the idlers unless it is a last resource, but at this stage of production the cost of implementation of the anchor threaded hole is so inexpensive that will be a crime if I did not include this, even if is just for future use, IMHO I think is better to have the option and not need it than to need it and do not have it.
i see, i did that, and glad i did when the tensioner was the only thing that made the board rideable, but unfortunately i had to drill one more hole now to change the bearing diameter
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I can see how that first hole could cause problems with the belt it is almost align with the motor shaft, that was too much for the belt.
This picture shows the position of the idler hole in my motor plate
Just watch out if the screw that holds the idler will not scrape the bigger wheels/tires
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