@Mobutusan - Just FYI. The person who sold you those mentioned he had no heat issues. So it could be an issue with your setup.
@torqueboards After testing the second, sensored esc, and still having the overheating issue, I’d have to agree. I just can’t figure out what else could be left to check that’s causing the problem. I’ve changed programming, loosened the belt, swapped motors, swapped esc’s, checked all connections, checked tightness of wheels/bearings, drilled holes in my enclosure for airflow. The only thing that’s stayed the same are the board, 9s batteries, mini remote, and BEC.
Out of curiosity, what are your normal operating temp for these esc’s measured at the heatsink, (in an enclosure, I assume)?
Could the batteries (9s, 4500mah, 35c) or the BEC possibly be the problem? Seems unlikely to me, but I’m running out of things to try besides mounting the esc’s completely outside of the box.
Hey, I didn’t get a chance to read your replies in that thread before I responded here, but great job with testing! That gives me some hope for fixing my issues, and figuring out my setup for these esc’s.
It may be possible that the internal resistance of that motor is high. Did you try a different motor yet?
I did try a 245kv sk3 and 245kv Tacon, with similar results. Maybe the kv rating is part of the problem?
Are you running high timing?
If your up for it send it to me and when I get time I’ll swap it and run it for 10 minutes or so.
@torqueboards I’ve run the timing high, very high and normal with the same results. I appreciate the offer to take a look, but I think there is something wrong with my setup since I got similar overheating with both the sensored and unsensored versions. After reading @Namasaki’s test results from that other thread, I’m thinking that maybe the combo of 9s voltage, 16/36 gearing, and single 6364 motor is pulling too much amps.
Did you switch up gearing?
Edit: meaning where you using different gearing in the past? Like a 12T?
So far, I’ve only tried 16/36 on 6s and 9s with the 12s ESC. Originally, I didn’t think there would be a problem with that setup, but I am gonna try 14/36 on 9s this weekend and try to run as close to full throttle for as long as I can, ~22-24mph, and see what happens.
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Bro, I don’t think the problem is your voltage or gearing. I did part of my road test with dual 6355 230kv. 6s, 16/36 gears and 90mm wheels and went full throttle up some hills and nothing got hot. I’m begining to suspect that this particular brand of esc does not like sk3 motors. My hub motors where similar to sk3 motors and the TB esc’s did not like them at all. They got hot all the time and I even burned one up climbing long hills. it could have something to do with the gauge wire they use for windings. or something about them, I don’t know. I’m using TB 6355 motors now and running them hard with no overheating problems at all either at 6s or 12s
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Could he be getting some type of feed back into the esc some how???
I’m not even sure if possible or if something like that could happen…
Did you try single drive? The guy I got these esc’s from was about my size running the following setups and only had overheating occur on the sensored unit on hills in hot temps.
5060 TB motor 200 kv (non sensored) R-Spec 6350 190kv (sensored) 8s ~29 volts 20c (non sensored) 80 18650’s 8 x 10s with BMS (sensored) 97mm 16/44
It’s not an SK3 issue. My first motors were Sk3’s. They ran cool Sk3 50s and Sk3 63s.
The sensored if not connected properly will cause heat and may possibly fail.
Sk3s I got nearly 3k+ miles easy. Those motors are still working I just don’t use that setup anymore.
What do you think his problem is?
I just picked up one of those watt meters, but I’m curious as to how you have yours set up. Since these units don’t log data, I’d like to be able to view the unit while I ride. I know it will show max and min values, but I’m curious to see what the instantaneous current draw, voltage sag, and power consumption are while I’m accelerating, cruising, etc.
My thought was to mount the unit on top of the deck at the front truck, and run 10 gauge wire to the battery and ESC from the unit which would be ~ 12-18" of wire for the source and load side of unit. I know we are supposed to keep the battery leads as short as possible, and the unit comes with about 3" of 12 gauge wire on either side, but for testing purposes, would running a 2-3’ loop of cable from the battery through the watt meter, and back to the ESC cause significant issues with performance, resistance, or accuracy of readings?
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Precision-Meter-Analyzer-Backlight/dp/B017YCTRKK?ie=UTF8&Version=1&entries=0
Seriously though, you should take Torque up on his offer. You probably just have an issue in that ESC.
Don’t “gloss” over my problem, bro. A pretty box can solve a lot of problems in life, but not all of them. 
Btw, it’s on my list, along with a lot of other things…
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Well, I might still, but I also have a second, sensored unit that I have only tested once, but got the same results. If I see a difference between those units after more testing, I’ll probably go for it. I definitely don’t want to abuse TB’s privelage/offer without exhausting all other possibilites on my end first. Just wish I had more free time in life to do all this testing. I’m lucky to find time to get out once or twice a weekend and run through a single battery before life calls me back. Oy.
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Oh yeah, and small update. Last weekend, after my normal 1-1.5 mile ride ending in a power cut/overheat situation, I changed from a 16/36 to 14/36 gearing, and was able to go almost 3 miles before I got a rock stuck in my motor pulley, and ran out of time, so that’s promising. The ESC was still up around 150*F at its hottest point, but got me much farther without overheating/cutting power.
Also, running at 80% forward limit with the programming card seemed to do nothing for my overheat situation. Pretty much same results.