Yes there are two build threads on this forum that explain the process, you have to create slits. It is a bit of a headache but the material is the same that Trampa uses for it’s boards which is indestructible. I just got mine… I believe they made it a little too thick but it still works.
If I had to do it over again, I would have ordered Kaly’s ABS enclosure which is about $60 and comes with the mounting hardware:
I think it’s possible to also create that enclosure with a 3D printer – ABS spool is cheap… about $50 for 3kg so you could make many of them. But I would just order from Kaly his price point is very reasonable.
Downside, dude is very busy so who knows when you will get a response.
autumn, leaves, twigs, wet streets: Ive been using my trampa a lot again lately. really happy with its performance, completely maintenance free really! love the direct drive of nowind. just replaced the rear tyres again and recorded a quick “free coasting” strip to give you an idea how little friction there really is:
May I ask how deep (or tall) you made your forms? Did you feel that they were ultimately the correct size (aside from the problem you later encountered with the larger form? Thanks!
the wood blocks I bought were 18mm tall (its a standard size when you buy them in one of those hardware stores). its fits the 18650 cells perfectly, especially when you use some foam sealing tape on the contact areas board <-> enclosure.
this weekend I opened the board again after driving it daily for 2 weeks now, even through rain. I had some issues with the alien handheld controller since the beginning - in some areas where I had high voltage lines going above my head, I had strong disturbances of the signal, sometimes giving me full stop and things like that. it also sometimes happened when I carved really hard and I remembered that I didnt decouple the receiver power supply from the Y-split PPM receiver cables (both vescs were powering the receiver in parallel - uhoh, bad pony!!). so I changed the PPM split to single short PPM and CAN connection of the 2 vescs and carefully adjusted the layout so that the PPM cable only crosses high current silicon wires perpendicular … without noticeable changes but it felt better anyway. then I swapped the APS remote for a miniremote and all my problems were gone instantly. its such a good remote and its great to ride the board without having to fear signal cutouts. screw aps - everything they got either breaks or is crap to begin with.
and done! took me a long time actually cause forming that mold wasnt easy, clearcoated it, then 1 splashguard -> cure 24h, remove from woodblock, sand, cut. its been a lot of work and i didnt have much time atm.
anyway, happy with the results. testrode them through soaking wet roads and they work very well, nothing on the board, nothing on my pants! 2 more to go and its kinda cool that they can be as easily attached to the driven rear wheels too.
generally speedring -> large stable washer -> splasguards -> washer -> nut, ie its connected to the nonmoving parts. to make this more solid incase of impact, i used dbl adhesive tape between all rings/washer to add to a little more friction. works very well, been going in heavy rain at full speed by now!
Would you be kind enough to link your screw combo plus the inserts you use? I imagine they will all be stainless steel? Would it also be possible to get a picture of your waterproofing? I tried two layers of 5mm wide 1mm thick neoprene band, but a little water still got through Thanks a lot in advance, love all of your builds!!
Hey @whitepony Sorry to revive your thread. I’m wondering how your board has been now that some time has passed. I’m thinking of doing something similar to your enclosure, however I’m worried about the connections between the packs. Even though its braided copper, wouldn’t it eventually break apart with all the flexing of the deck?
ah damn, i was a little busy pimping my car, springs coming up, whitepony waking from his slumber
the board still runs exceptionally well, really no issues even though i often ride in wet conditions and basically all winter now. the flex battery connections havent worn either yet, i checked recently when i swapped out a receiver for another remote. the flex per segment isnt really all that much, its not like you constantly bend the copper by ±90degrees.
I use 0.15mm strips - because if the strips are thicker they are harder to spot weld
and if you do a mistake - they just “glow” away faster than thicker strips.
Had one long night and made a short cut between to packs - it got very bright
Thanks a lot in advance, love all of your builds!!
