I will definitely test this, but first thing I need to know. Does flashing or reprogramming require special device or it can be done with just the usb port. Because I’ve seen in Vedder’s video before he uses special thing to upload it.
This could be a big problem for me as purchasing this device would probably cost more tha just getting a second nyko kama.
Lately nyko kama wireless nunchuck are quite rare to find. They are not even available anymore in their own website. Getting the black version is even harder.
I think we just need to reprogramm the implementation of the nunchuck, compile this modified source code and just upload the new firmware through the bldc tool (there is a point named “firmware” where we can upload it)
The only problem at the moment is how to implement the MadCatz Nunchuk.
Well from my point of view now, I would only go the extra mile if I have my vesc on hand. I will test it with madcatz nunchuck the model I have with it. If it doesnt work and I have plenty of time, i will try to compile it.
I understand what Vedder NRF solution is. He created a new pcb board build like VESC, but its a replacement board for a nunchuck. Its a good solution, but again manufacturing problem for common people.
From time, effort and risk perspective, it simply better getting new enertion remote or the mini torqueboard remote. This also limit random drop out issues, bugs and shorts.
For now Im going to look for some chinese remote supplier if they can send me good remote for electric longboard to be send to eu.
I thought the dropping connection problem occurs due the usb connection. It should be fixed if you solder the cables onto the circuit board and a jst-xh connector
I’m not quite sure about this as soldering and simply connecting pins are relatively the same. It must have been due to bugs or bad wiring. It’s not only known within this forum that the drop outs occur with wii nunchuck. I suppose now it’s already better and doesn’t seems to be a big issue, but still it’s a hit - miss thing for different eboard specs from different people.
No it isnt. not even close to the same.
soldering is solid and wont vibrate loose. It is pretty well documented that soldering will prevent nunchuck dropouts.
@lowGuido Yes you have a point, hard to explain how that could happen like that. Seems that vibration is the culprit that causes electricity / electrons moving inconsistent, causing bad signal within wii module. However this should not happen easily due to the use of wii as game - sport types of controller as you would like to swing and slam this around. Anyway if the problem is solved, it’s solved.
@DeathCookies You will need to use the Ohm meter / connection / continuity mode. With continuity mode your multi meter will sound a beep when the positive lead and the negative lead of the multimeter touches each other. So now you practically touch one end (positive from multimeter) to the plug of the receiver and the other end (black from multimeter) to the pcb board of the receiver. You will need to search for it till it make the beep sound. Then you will know what pin are they for from the PCB. (I hope this doesn’t confuse you).
If you don’t have the beep / continuity mode, you can use ohm meter for it (resistance checker). If your multimeter is digital, you will see the resistance value change. If you use analog multimeter (needle pointer), set it to the lowest resistance range, so every time positive and negative lead of the multimeter touch each other the needle would move significantly.
also do not confuse movement with vibration, the vibration on a skateboard is far more brutal to electronics than just swinging around. skateboard vibration is not to be underestimated!
I am sorry, just a last thing to mention: The receiver would be plugged into the wii where id does not vibrate. But in plugging it into the esc it will vibrate But enough of that
Thanks for the explanation of the “wire checking method”. I could easily understand it. I just had a mindtwist… it is easy as the plug must be the same for every nunchuk… damn me
as much as the plug and wires are the same for every nunchuck there are some that play well with VESC and some that don’t. I don’t understand why, because to me nunchuck signal is nunchuck signal… but perhaps there is some other signal or something which keeps the transmission between the dongle and the chuck, that could be different between manufactures
I was getting Madcatz nunchuck with the same understanding that nunchuck signal just nunchuck signal, I mean what else it could be. The data or way of transmission from nunchuck to receiver could be different, but the signal output from the receiver should be the same.
Well I believe we have donated really alot to the development of VESC with more than thousands beta testers. Now I believe he has to put more serious effort in it to bring his idea (building the best esc) into further reality. I mean it’s not that far from perfect at the moment, but he has to get it there.
The best way to solve this is to add support for various Wii wireless remote (I believe it’s easier than making own Wii NRF pcb). With just a few click on the BLDC tool, we can replace the VESC handshake support from Nyko kama to Madcatz or any other popular wii nunchuck out there.
Ohh btw, does anyone have issues with safety concern concerning single mount motor setup? I’ve just got an incident where I have to fall because of traction issue.
I was hitting 12mph and accelerating, but there is a small bump only happening on the powered motorized back wheel. Hence for some fractions of seconds the powered wheel loose traction and spin faster, but when it retouches to the ground, it gets its traction back and immediately spin the board side ways.
But enough of that