Oo wow that’s my foot stool and rotor! The magnet placement thing is on the other side of the rotor. See if you can find the pic. It’s purple.
If u want to compare your motors to mine we can. You won’t find a motor anywhere. Anywhere. With better components.
.2mm stator lams .4mm airgap N45sh magnets. Curved. 3mm thick
What u got.
Drop the mike m8
Good solid figures
this topic is actually about what is most cost effective…
my argument is simple… & I will not change my opinion because it is an opinion that is derived from personal experience… from real world testing & from selling thousands of products to real people using them in the real world for the last three years… & i can assure you people tell me when my products are rubbish…and it’s my job to make them better.
before I had these current R-SPEC motors I sold many other motors sourced from many other motor factories and my failure rates were much higher! so I was forced to find better motors…& i did, they cost more but they are better because they fail less… its really that simple…
some reviews from my customers, real world feedback about the product MORE REVIEWS
Therefore,
my opinion is the most cost effective esk8 build is the one the never fails & the one that has a warranty that covers the product when being used on an esk8…
this is my opinion, if you all disagree that is also fine.
Reliable motors are not exclusive to Enertion. You do not have a monolpoly on reliability. If I want a cheap motor that is reliable, I will not get it from you. But if money is no object, then you are the obvious choice
Lol… For your info… There is a retainer ring on that motor. You just can’t see it in that image. The backside the retainer covers the entire magnets and on the front side it covers only part of the magnets.
My motors live up to my expectations and then some… I use these motors on rough roads on a daily basis where 30-40% of my routes are uphill climbing 20-30% inclines.
I ride over potholes and cracks for days to make sure they are up to the test for anyone.
I may not mention I cover motors on my website. But I care for each of my customers and know it is expensive and I do my best to help out as much as I can. If the issue is 100% legitimate. I replace the motors. Sure, I’ll take a full loss because in the end. The joy everyone get’s from riding is the important part. Sharing the fun and making it easier for everybody.
So your talking about a few bucks in STANDARD motor features… Can hike up the motor almost 1/3rd the cost?
I have no issues with your motors. I’m sure, they are STANDARD motors.
My issues are just how you chalk it up like your using GODSEND technology that nobody has access too and that these features are NOT all STANDARD.
Your using some N5000 magnets and GLUE5000 on your motors.
Don’t fool anyone because you just dumb down the community.
You can’t compare a 50mm motor to a 63mm motor. It’s obvious a 63mm motor is more durable by far.
Anyone can burn out a motor… I can put your motor on a setup with a belt so tight and 200 lbs above the board and burn out your motor. It’s no rocket science. Even your so called High Quality Motors can burn up… Just run them above the temperatures to mess them up.
Teach people how to use the equipment and parts to further extend the life of their parts.
Don’t get RC motors because their unreliable! Etc. Fake… Don’t believe it.
So yes, when someone doesn’t have enough money… I tell them to get their parts elsewhere. I tell them it will work and it will do fine. I tell them exactly where to get it. It’s not the best option but hey… if you want cheaper… it is available. Sure, they lack some features but you’ll be able to enjoy riding an electric skateboard.
So no, your motors aren’t the most cost effective esk8 build… Fancy…Flashy… Hype Written… sure…
This is what I’m talking about…
8mm High Tensile Grade A - SUS420J2 HRC55 - Precision Milled Shaft Stainless Steel Axle You mean 8mm Stainless Steel Motor Shaft
Precision Bearing Assembly 688Z with dynamic load rating of 1606N You mean 688Z Bearing. Bearings are high precision bearings, we’ll duh. Yes… 688Z is a standard bearing. Yes, your bearing is $1.00 retail…must be cheaper than $1 then, right?
20cm flexible high stand count pure copper & silicon 12awg wires. You mean 12awg wires - which are by default high strand silicone wire if they are meant for RC cars? But you said RC cars aren’t good for electric vehicles
So I’m going to put it in a fancy box for you and make it sparkle and dazzle and confuse you with awesome words… I’ll hike my price up because I’m now high quality.
Go to show for it…You even got your 1st batch of VESC’s from Flier…Here you are preaching about high quality… With all the manufacturers available for PCB Production and Assembly… You choose Flier out of all people.
Im curious which motor is better an sk3 260kv or a tacon 245kv lets assume on a 6s or 10s setup with hilly terrain.
Considering what they are made out of, and also just overall preference
Tacon, but just get a SK3 6374
I was told a higher kv is better
Both will work. 6s/10s depends.
Doesn’t matter too much.
Turnigy 6374 motor. 2 Years of riding in the summer. Still going perfectly. The “rigid” wires haven’t broken. The magnets haven’t fallen off (I ride quite rough tarmac sometimes). Bearings are fine.
They are just motors. 
Yep…ur a perfect example of wise use of your board…most likey rock solid bracket and you prob know the limits of your board and stay within that limit…
But what if you’re a No Limit Soldier??? 
I don’t know if this equates to a real world difference, but my Tacon 245kv feels like it provides more magnetic resistance when turning it by hand, compared to the SK3 245kv. Maybe stronger magnets in the Tacon? I don’t have enough miles on both to know for sure which one is “better” (they both feel pretty strong to me), but throughout my reading on the forums, it seems like the Tacon has kind of a reputation for being a pretty torquey motor.
I’ve tried “notchy” and less “notchy” motors… Maybe it’s me…lol I can’t feel the diffrence when up and running under my feet … but I’m sure there is if you get them analyzed
For budget stuff… Tacon 245kv Motor $63.74 Free shipping! http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m608-bigfoot160-5335-245kv.html Pretty sick pricing!! If you haven’t checked out Dexter’s stuff… product/torqueboards-single-motor-mechanical-kit/ $199 Trucks, mounts, wheels, drive…Everything you need mechanically. VESC… product/vesc-the-best-electric-skateboard-esc/ $99 UNDER A HUNDRED BONES!!! SO you are running right around $364 without battery and remote Not too shabby. If the dude you are building for has a deck already up for the project and maybe even a set of trucks, then that makes it even cheaper!! You could possible go cheaper if you built the mounts and drive system yourself. It’s totally doable. But you gotta consider that your time is money as well.
BTW: Dexter tests his stuff in San Francisco, CA. Not for the faint of heart. Inclines are everywhere and steep as fuck!!
Hands down the best motors on the market for our use are the large sk3 series. The bell housing is supported on both ends unlike any other motor commonly used. The factory that builds the sk3 is well known for the quality engineering and manufacturing. It is a solid product. I am currently in talks with them to produce a modified version with a slightly longer shaft with keyway. Don’t get your hopes up yet, they want me to order at least 100 units. It will probably have to wait till I am finished retooling for the V5.0 VESC.
If you are on a budget and building 8s or less get a tacon 245kv, tons of power.
Why are the tacons so cheap compared to other motors coming from maytech? This may be a huge surprise to some people but Maytech doesn’t make motors, they market them. They are a distributor of sorts. The actual retail value of these motors is around $55 to $70. If you go factory direct you can get these for much less and save your customers some money.
The Tacon design is shared by many many motors on the market. It is the simplest motor you can manufacture and should be priced accordingly. If you guys got together and did a group buy you can get them wound to any kv you like and buy from Maytech. You need to order in much larger quantities to get them directly from the manufacture but maytech is happy to take short orders if you don’t mind paying retail for custom motors.
A final note, switching over to flexible wires is proving to be a bad move. It allows the wire to move and rub on the motor housing causing shorts in the windings. It has been killing VESC’s. If you have one of these motors, see if you can slip some heatshrink over the uninsulated section inside the housing to prevent this from happening… Having rigid wires allows the movement to be isolated better so it is a good thing to have.
Awesome…
Let us know what your testing results look like. I’m very interested in your observations both pros and cons!
I have to say I’m a little surprised anyone is interested whether motor x might have more power than motor y when, at least on the two 6374 / 6364 boards I’ve made, full throttle without being physically prepared, results in you being thrown off the board, and that’s on 6s.
I’d be more concerned with longevity.
Its what happens at higher speeds that is important. Using a powerful motor will also allow a rider to use them gently rather than running a smaller motor hard under the same conditions.
