How I made my lipo packs slimmer!

@susplus Its made from carbon fibre. Its pretty strong.

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wondering, If you make the packs flat like this, can they be mounted to a board that has some actual flex in it?

Yes depending on how you solder the connections. Make sure you make the bridges with silicon wire. I’ve done this before

Thanks, opens up some nice possibilities :slight_smile:

That was my question aswell , how do you make the bridges from cell to cell.

So you use 10-12Awg wire? or like the metal plates that a lot of people use for their 18650 packs?

I use 10AWG cable the whole pack is pretty flexible.

Use silicon wire 10 or 12 gauge will work fine. Don’t use nickel strip if you want it to flex

Today I slimmed a 6S1P 8000mah Multistar Lipo. It was a freaking pain :laughing:

Basic soldering done :expressionless:

Balance leads…

Still pretty good flex.

0.5mm plastic housing to shield it from cuts.

Its final destination.

Pretty low profile.

The clear shrink wrap has yet to arrive. I’ll pack it in the next few days.

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The good news is it looks really nice!! But the amp draw on one hub motor will be a lot and those cells aren’t good for high amp draw. Really they are 4c according to people who’ve tested them.

Not sure if ur esc is like the vesc, or what others are, but at least with the vesc on higher voltage it will draw less amps from the battery.

Are you sure? On HK, it’s listed as 10C which should provide 80A of discharge current.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_64793__Multistar_High_Capacity_6S_8000mAh_Multi_Rotor_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw4827BRDJvpbVuKvx-rIBEiQA2_CzsLY9Waov0tzBHnJG2njrstCtqgPv-5tLNWxqr0Q4qXAaAhhb8P8HAQ

A lot of exaggeration happens with discharge rate. People on es who use them for bikes have done a lot of testing. I’ve also seen testing on rcgroups that showed them performing better but I’d trust the es people. 4c continuous was max recommended

It will be ok with higher discharge but their lifespan will be short. I’d stack two deep at least. Or else set the max amp draw from the batteries. I have those cells and plan to stack 3 deep. When u do that then they’re good and energy dense and can put out the power u want also

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I guessed that at least 5c could be reality, that would still be 40A continous and maybe a peak of 80A. (still way above for example a space-cell). I’ll run it with a VESC (wich hopefully eventually arrives within the next one or two years :pray:) and keep a low max amp setting. The board will not be used for hills, but mainly as sort of a push assist/cruising/coasting board.

If however, this wont work out, I’m stacking up another pack for 6s2p.

Do you think checking the temperature of the battery under the maximum load I’m planning to put it through is a suitable approach?

What does everyone think of this battery pack?

It’s super high capacity, and it’s super thin.

It’s for a device which means it’s likely rated at like 1 c

Oh I see. How much c is required for a 245kv motor?

@philipp looks good man! welcome to the flat LiPo Revolution! my 6S 280kv draws an average of 5A im sure the multistars will be ok.

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Thanks for the good words Guido! I made the negative cable a little longer because I’m planning to add a switch there. Does a 6S battery need a special big switch or isn’t it a problem because of the relative low voltage?

It seems that needing to use aluminum flux solder is a deterrent for folks; why is that? Is it much more difficult to work with than regular leaded flux core solder?

Correct. It’s kinda difficult to use. Luckily the only time I’ve had to use it, so far, was for one connection.

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In my experience it’s very easy and I love it

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