Dual Motor Settings
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Thanks! What would you recommend for a single drive? I’m setting up as we speak
The only thing I would change for single drive is the battery min current. with this battery build and a single drive, you could run the battery min current at -20
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@Namasaki, is it possible to run 10 packs of 2s/5000mah/60c (to a 10s2p setup) and use a 10s bestech bms?
I haven’t tried this but I guess it’s doable. It would be better to get high capacity, high discharge packs and keep it simple.
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You must be getting close to 30 miles range with that setup.
If I could stay out of the throttle I would 
. I get about 22 to 24.
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Still some serious range.
Yeah, it’s fun. I take it out if town alot, because I know I won’t have to charge often. I really haven’t ridden it much lately. With the Jet Spud 29 & now the Evo on 6 Shooters I’m having fun
Hey @Namasaki I’m thinking of going 12s, and also want to swap the wheel pulley from 36 to 32 which I have laying around.
I understand speed will increase.
Is there anything (aside from speed and safety) that I should worry about? Or is this perfectly fine with my single 170KV + FocBox build?
@ryan_pogi @mmaner I was thinking about doing the same exact thing the other day. Glad to know it is possible.
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Questions, @mmaner, @Namasaki.
1.) So battery #1 and #6 balance wires go together, right? Is it better to solder them, then heat shrink? or a butt connectors will do?
2.) yellow wire is at balance port #1 and red is at balance port #2, then eliminate/ isolate the black wire. Is this correct?
3.) So I will be using 10 packs of 2s/5000mah/60c LiPo’s. Will a 42v 2ah Lithium battery charger (hoverboard charger) be sufficient for charging?
Thanks.
1 > Correct. Yes solder, no butt-splice = very very bad. 2 > I’m not sure about the colors, mine are different. You need to use a multimeter to define which is cell 1 and which is cell 2. Yes, you will isolate the negative. 3 > That charger should be fine, you could use a 5a charger thought o charge faster.
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Sorry, how do you define which is cell #1 using a multi-meter on yellow and red wire? One should give you a reading and the other does not?
Rule of thumb for 2s Lipo balance wires. Black wire on edge of connector is ground Red wire on opposite edge is cell 2 Wire in middle of connector is cell 1 On Lipos that are 3s to 6s, the balance wires are always in succession and cell 1 is always next to the black ground wire. The red wire on the edge is always the last cell in the pack. The black wire on the edge is always ground.
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Got it, thanks.
Normally, I just buy batteries pre-packed, or pre-made. Cause I’m one of those guys you call lazy, sadly. This is my 1st attempt to make my own. Starting the the least expensive ones, the LiPo’s.
Learned from some articles and videos that LiPo’s are some scary sh!t. One of the most dangerous batteries around. No wonder hard packs are nice, for extra battery protection. With BMS (assuming in good working condition), will, somehow, eliminate over charging and make it safer. But still, it does not mean you will let your battery charging unattended.
Anyway, I just got my 4 pack of 10 (2s/5000mah/7.4v 60c LiPo) from hobbyking and will start solder them in series. So I used my multi-meter to test the balance wires (for curiosity sake). The cell #1 reads 3.7v, while cell # 2 reads 7.5v. So the conclusion is, the lowest voltage reading is the cell #1, and adds up till you reach 37v, which is cell #10. Since I’m doing the parallel, I’ll just match-up the balance wire with the same voltage reading. Thanks to @mmaner 's crystal clear diagram, I know now where to connect the volt meter, and charger. Thank you too @Namasaki.
It’s a really good idea to balance charge each pack before soldering them together. Especially if your connecting them in parallel. anytime you connect multiple cells or packs in parallel, they will auto balance themselves quickly with high current transfer that can damage the cells involved.
I have been using Lipos for years, first in helicopters and now in Eboards. I have never had a problem with them catching fire or exploding. Just use quality Lipos and balance charge them either with a good hobby charger designed for Lipos or a bms and brick charger with the correct voltage output. Since I’ve been into Eboarding, I have not seen anyones lipo build catch fire but I have seen 2 builds with Li-ion batteries burn to the ground. When you stop and think about it, the Lipo build is somewhat flexible. The welded Li-ion pack is more rigid and consequently, more susceptible to vibration and road shock. The pics below are both Li-ion builds that just caught fire. The top one for no apparent reason. The bottom one ignited after riding over a very rough road.
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Battery min at -20 for a 5ah battery? Thought one shouldn’t go beyond 2c, meaning -10 in this case.