No problem!
@aethyr if you’re still looking where to cut button, here is some pics.
I put the third channel button in every build.
Joel
I can’t get throttle to recognize on my vesc 4.12. Its bound - solid red light on the receiver. Servo wires on channel 2. On BLDC_Tool/App_Configuration the throttle display bar on the bottom doesn’t move.
I tried a servo tester and it works fine - the throttle bar moves as I turn the tester knob and throttles the motor.
Any ideas? Did I fry my gt2b board somehow?
On a side note, I had my first lipo fire 
You can use the balance wires of a lipo battery to power the servo tester (the leads fit together perfectly) and accidentally left it connected for too long. The problem is that the servo tester only takes - and +, ie 2 out of the 3 balance wires of my 2s lipo, which means when connected for a while, it was draining only one of the cells, creating a large voltage imbalance. Luckily, I was in the room when I heard it initially pop, I grabbed a lipo bag, tossed it in and ran out to my driveway, where it subsequently engulfed itself in flame and smoke.
Note to self, NEVER power the servo tester that way again 
Did you check the pot ohms? The trigger is plugged into T2?
Joel
It turns out I dremmeled some important tracings off the trigger PCB trying to get it to fit 
Now I’ll have to remove it and solder it directly after all.
But thanks for the tip to check the pot ohms. As I was inspecting it to probe with my multi, I realized the tracings were shaved off.
When soldering directly keep the tabs full length. And be quick to tin and then let cool down. Then solder wire quickly. Don’t let it get to hot. I try and use my finger and blow on the connection to keep the pot cool.
I think I soldered pretty quickly - around 1 second touch with the iron on each tab to create a blob and then just a quick touch of the iron and wire.
But now, I can’t get the remote to bind to the receiver, which previously I had no issue doing. I think when the lipo popped, it killed the receiver 
Damn it!
Check the OHMs of the pot. If it is messed up it will not center and in turn will not bind. Could be something else though.
I tin the tabs, let them cool completely then solder the wire on.
Joel
Hmm, looks like I killed the pot. Getting 0 Ohms throughout the throttle range. WTF. I literally had the iron on the tabs for 1 second each.
I can bind with the steering pot fine.
Could you tell me what the ohm values you get on full reverse, neutral and full throttle?
So it looks like I can use the steering pot. The range is just short of the full range of the throttle pot, which is at 50 degrees.
But since the latest BLDC tool can adjust max and min ranges, its simple enough to adjust accordingly. In fact, I just tested and was able to get full brake and throttle ranges.
The steering pot stem is a bit too long, so I will need to dremel to shorten and reshape the cutout.
OHM’s should read 0 - 5 one way then 0 - 5 the other.
Yes as long as you can dremel the flat spot down some and adjust the throw in the BLDC you should be good to go.
I have a steering pot in my eFoil controller. Only use throttle on that though.
Joel
Yeah, I got everything to work. Dremel successful. I was super paranoid about heat this time and dremeled only a little bit at a time, cooling the shaft in water every few seconds. And I had to flip the pot outer wires because the ohm values were inversed from the throttle pot.
Mad Munkey finally finished and working! Thanks Flatline for a great design and help getting it to work!
Nice, glad you got it working!
I do sell them.
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Thanks @FLATLINEcustoms! I got the remote in today. All connected and running great! Truly amazing work. Love the color, I might need you to do another one for me real soon.
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Thank you man! Glad you like the smokey color. First one I have done like that.
Let me know when you need the next one.
Joel
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