My new Raptor duel is such a beauty to behold!! It just arrived on Friday (now Sunday) and unfortunately I’ve had two pretty gnarly falls already which from my layman’s perspective I think is due to an issue with this Winning remote cutting in and out (and/or a VESC setting issue). Or that’s how it feels like anyhow. I’ll be accelerating from a push start and then the forward thrust stops without me moving my thumb back, a moment later it’ll reengage at FULL POWER. The first time this happened as I fell back I tried to brake but it didn’t do anything and my Raptor shot off under some parked car splitting my carbon fiber - this was on my very first ride! Had to superglue it :’( Check it out:
What I have since figured out is that the board accelerates to full throttle when the thumb-stick it only pushed about 15% forwards of its potential travel. I’m hoping this can be fixed by tweaking some VESC settings in the BLDC thingy. Here are a couple screen grabs of the current settings, let me know if you see anything glaringly wrong, any advise is MUCH appreciated!
First thing that i see is that you have the firmware with the bug. So please update the firmware to the latest available file. (the firmware version itself didn’t change)
Make sure that you set the value of max current ramp step to 0.0400.
If that still didn’t help you are a light guy and the acceleration is too much for you then lower the Motor max to maybe 50 or 40. And if the overall power is too much then lower the Battery max to 20 or 15.
Motor influences the acceleration especially at lower speeds and battery the top power.
The cutouts you have are because of the remote. It looses connection. So it continues with the last speed it could detect from the remote for another second and then it get’s a signal again. make sure that your receiver in the board isn’t covered or touched by any wires where high currents flow.
If you have the same behavior than in the video then forget it. Because that is without load. So try it again with you on the board. Because it takes only like 70 watts to spin the wheels freely at full speed and 15% throttle with your settings means around 324 watts (60 motor amps max * 0,15 % throttle * 36 nominal voltage = 324 watts)
And that only for a single motor.
Thank you for all your assistance. I hear what you’re saying about load influencing the motors. But regardless of load surely they should only hit top speed when the thumb-stick is pushed all the way forwards no? Shouldn’t it be linear regardless of load?
That’s not how current control works. Think of it like a gas pedal on a car. Make sure you fix the max current ramp step. There are a bunch of other people have problems with the winning remote. If i were you, I’d replace it.
I wouldn’t want to be an early adopter given that it’s made by the same company. Get a reliable one like the gt2b and wait for reviews of the nano-x before committing.
To update firmware, download bldc tool and use the firmware folder in there for the source. You can update from within BLDC tool.
Your described behavior happens in duty cycle moad but current mode is different. Rouphly you set the power from 0 to 2220watts (37volts x 60 motor amps) with the throttle.
(To all others, (especially devin) i know it is a bit more complicatedbut let’s keep it simple here)
Let’s compare it to your car. When you are in Idle and push the pedal 50 % it will still ramp up to the rpm limit. Because 50% is enough power to reach that. At least at a carburetor controlled engine.
But just step on the board and try it. When you push the throttle 15% then it will be very different to 100% throttle.
I haven’t ridden a raptor but i guess 15% throttle at a start up is fun and 100% throttle at a startup is pain.
Have a look here. And save your motor settings before that. But change the value to 0.0400 before you save it.
And write down the application settings. because after a Firware update the values will be lost.
Haha, now you tell me Just did the Firmware update… But they don’t seem to be lost… everything’s still there thankfully.
One last question plz @Ackmaniac, do I need to adjust these setting on both VESCs individually or having done it on one will it “tell/control” the other? Bc one is easy to get the lil usb thingy into and one is inaccessible as it’s stuck close to the casing.
You have to do that to both. but you can connect to the second one when you set the dropbox value to 1 which is marked in red and enable Can Fwd. That means you connect to the second via the first one. But i am not sure if you can update the firmware this way. better connect to the second one via usb just to be sure.
So I just got back from trying out these new settings, to begin with everything was working like a dream, but then… no connection and, WAM! There’s definitely a connection issue with my remote. It totally drops connection and then when it comes back it blasts at full throttle and puts me on my ass. Just really hurt my knee!! Probably not able to skate for a week or two now.
On the plus side I made a new friend as I bumped into @mrjonnyjones on the Brighton seafront right now on his e-skate. We went for about 200m cruise together before this latest issue happened. He even saw my remote lose connection as he was right next to me and then watched as it came back full blast and saw me roll on the floor after badly twisting my knee hopping off. So there’s a fellow e-skater who can fully back up my account of what happened. Here’s a pic of our boards together I just took while recovering/preparing for the walk home.
Just did the Firmware update… But they don’t seem to be lost… everything’s still there thankfully.
