Do larger diameter wheels make more stable ride?

How would oscillations present themselves? Like what’s the physical feel/impact

I guess now I’m putting the correct size belt, possibly an off road Pulley if I can’t get my teeth right on mine, and now some bushings on my shopping list. Harder for the back, softer for the front?

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Yes ma’am

(10 chars)

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i also use harder bushings road side for a better return to center feeling.

my set up wont be right for you because im super heavy but its dialed in perfect for me but maybe it will give you a better idea.

96a pivot cups 97a road ride bushing both front and rear 90a front board side bushing 95a rear board side bushing

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If my understanding is correct, and I wouldn’t swear in a court of law that it is, wobbles present as small turns at the pivot.

What I do know is that the easiest way to work.out of a wobble is to carve back and forth. The second option is to slow down as quickly as possible. I’ve also found that a small turn and acceleration will dissipate the oscillation.

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That gives me a better idea but wow, that’s 4 different bushings lol

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they all came in the almost precision kit i just mixed and matched till it felt right for me lol

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Mine is almost the same… 96a pivot cups 95a road side, front and rear 90a board side, front 95a board side, rear

Glad to have it confirmed :smiling_face:

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wait why are you running harder bushings roadside instead of boardside ?

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Carving deep on a long wheelbase board where you are in the middle.of trucks, not on top of them, like the LY Evo leaves a bit to be desired when returning from the lean. Harder bushings roadside make the return more ‘elastic’ for lack of a better word.

Don’t misunderstand though, this isn’t science just my personal experience with this specific deck.

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i have to agree, it makes the board feel more agile and nimble even though its a heavy beast.

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Heavy it is. With the airless 6in on 6 shooters I was at 28lbs. With the new 6 shooters and regular numies and after removing some extraneous hardware I’m down to 24lbs. It’s still the heaviest board I own :slight_smile:

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What angle are you running?

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I should of thought if that, a 44 base plate would decrease the turn but make it more stable at speed.

78 teeth…

My trucks for these wheels are 48°

Had anyone used this type of belt? https://m.ebay.com/itm/10AT5-390-Timing-Belt-390mm-Length-AT5mm-Pitch-10mm-Width-78-Teeth/222064923399?hash=item33b419d307:g:5SQAAOSwYSlXgTbh

The belt type depends in the pulley(s) type. That belt is not htd5m, so it won’t work with htd5m pulleys which is what I sent you the models of.

Vbeltsupply.com

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alright wicked. I like that when poeple just try shit out and find something that works for them !

For me though it is the opposite (and also maybe I am just falling in line with the habits of long-boarding in general).

“The boardside bushing is like your steering wheel, you want it to react and get compressed as fast as possible because that’s where you’re transferring the energy in order to turn. The roadside bushing should absorb imperfections on the road and return the truck to its original position, therefore it does not need to compress as fast as the boardside one. Summing it up, softer boardside.”

Fuq me man. This is a thing damn ? :slight_smile: When I read it I was like:" he must of meant it the other way around"

Usually we run harder bushings (barrels) boardside so our precious precision trucks keep the geometry and don’t change to much. Giving us more control and reliability, while also slowing down the return of the lean, again for stability and control.

So you go EXACTLY the other direction and say, gimme some snap, gimme some liveliness and some action. I dig it.

No idea why I am so hyped about this, but if I would ever show up with softer boardside bushings I would be an alien, no kidding for me unheard of.

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