Dammit, @Deckoz with the dope beta once again. I definitely tagged that quick little tutorial, as I know others will. Thanks for all the info man!
@Sender thanks dude. I just added some notes about composite decks in case someone uses them instead of wood core as well. Iāll eventually make a video of a build from start to finish I thinkā¦
I think making a board feel like itās built professionally is half of the fun, narrowing down the puzzle to perfectionā¦
I just finished a wood insert install last night. Trick is to mark your drill bit so youāre not drilling through the deck. @Deckoz covered all the right pointers.
I had a hard time using those. Ultimately just drilled all the way through the board and didnāt use them.
I used these on my board. However Iām not going to endorse using them because I feel like the wood screw type would make for a easier install. I basically used @deckoz method because my board doesnāt use grip tape and I wasnāt willing to drill through the deck completely.
This type works 100% however the fine threads are hard to start the self tap because they are very fine. Another issue with the fine threads is choosing the appropriate drill bit. One size to big and the insert would probably drop right in requiring epoxy. Drill too small and you canāt start the tap. Iād recommend practice on a dense piece of wood first.
No glue or epoxy required if done right.
Also, whatās the eBay link to those washer things @Deckoz I need me some. Just not pinkā¦
@psychotiller made this thread for https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/mounting-your-enclosure/46001
I have inserts, or actually immovable hammer-nuts inside of the board, between the veneer layers. That way all you see is holes on bottom and nothing on top. Downside is that you must have exact lenght bolts, or else you could tighten too much and the top layer goes broken.
Here ya go dudeā¦just pic the color, size and quantity https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122456181943
threaded insert guys, do you loctite?
Definitely apply loctite
Itās a crazy pain in the ass removing like 16 loctited screws eh? Iāve seen in other threads people are getting along without loctite. Hoping to hear from more people.
Thatās true gonna have to use the heat gun to remove em. I apply loctite to mine because the screws feel loose inside the inserts even though they are both the right size.
No Loctite here.
The threaded inserts are glued into the deck and were a really tight fit, but Iād still be worried the insert would unthread (from the deck) if I used Loctite on the enclosure screws.
Iāve not lost a screw, nor have any come loose. My enclosureās a little different though (made from a rubber like polyurethane), it kind of acts as a built in nylock nut.
@psychotiller uses plastic washers. But I wouldnāt used red loctite on the mounting screws use blue. There are inserts that have wood screw outer threads. They are from ez-lok but Inwould still the holes one size bigger so you donāt crack the top veneer. There are other companies that do these inserts with knife edge inserts.
I found this company that have a massive range of stuff and I am using something like this with the pre applied loctite. https://www.accu.co.uk/en/torx-flanged-button-screws/356666-SHBF-M4-16-A2-R360 I thought the flanged torx head looked pretty cool so I linked those but thereās a whole range of different materials and head types.
This is where I sourced all my bolts/washers from. Not cheap, but good and excellent selection. Just watch out for the minimum order quantities and lead timeā¦ heh, at least Iāve got some spares. Only thing I didnāt buy from here were the inserts themselves.
I apply epoxy to the outside of my inserts, then screw them in the deck and let it cure over night. Next day apply a bit of middle strong loctite to your enclosure screws and mount your enclosure.
Epoxied inserts wont come loose, enclosure wont come loose from vibrations and youĀ“re still able to remove the screws with medium force
My thoughts are, I think you can definitely get away without thread lock while youāre still messing around and getting into the enclosures often.
Its really more a matter of convenience. If its more inconvenient to have to worry about periodically replacing or re-tightening bolts, use thread lock.
If its more inconvenient to have to deal with fussing to get your bolts out all the time, donāt use thread lock.
Ideally you get to the state where its all just working and youāre rarely having to mess with it, or open anything up.
If loctite, for removable applications I like this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VXRM5Q/ref=twister_B008D6GHY6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You apply to screw, wait 15 minutes, then you can do a dozen or two mating cycles before it wears out.
The 30ml in the glass jar with the brush in the lid is the boss.