Why did I fry my ESC at less than 20 amps?

Since the motor is metal it may have touched the wire and cause a short that way.

So if my lipos are at 4 volts a cell, can I safely brake?

You can brake at full charge, I have had no problems at high voltage. The problem is when you get down near the cutoff voltage of 3 - 3.2v/s

Sry Guys i am new here, and i am not a nativ English speaker -.- I can not start a new posting. I read the FAQ but I don’t know why, or how to do.

Is it maybe blocked because I am new?

Best wishes from Germany

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Yes just be active on our forum for a little while and it will unlock

Welcome!

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This is true. And how I know the FVT does NOT have regen braking. Cause I never had issues and if it had regen braking, you would over charge you battery an you would know. The VESC, you must be careful with at a full charge. The reason theres an issue is say you run 10s, you should have your absolute min set to 28 volts and max set to 42 volts. If your at full charge (4.2 volts per cell), you will trigger the over voltage protection. Alternatively, you can set it to 43 volts (which is what I do), but you do need to be careful, cause you could over charge your battery doing that. Starting at 40 volts (or 4 volts per cell) solves that issue also. If I know I’m starting on a hill (as I do when I leave my university), I just under charge a slight bit to 41 volts. It’s the same logic behind whatever voltage battery you use, I just like to use 10s as an example because the numbers are really easy to see and understand due to the overall being a factor of 10 of what your cells are at.

@stuxtruth My question is what where your acceleration and the one next to that? I remember blowing out a few of these because I had those two settings set too high. And the burn mark on mine was exactly what I see on yours…

My acceleration was set on high and timing set on very high

That results in a hotter motor and maybe in a hotter ESC which then has broken. But dunno…

My first esc burned while breaking downhil. I bought another just like it and set my timing all the way down and the pwn freq to 8. Solved my heat issues. That was a turnigy esc.

I have the 10s3p space cell and max set to 43v. Am I overcharging the battery if I charge to 100% or is the bms stopping that?

bms should stop that. The charger will also stop it. I’m charging without a bms right now and if the cells were balanced before, I can actually charge and it’ll stop on its own But both will stop it.

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It’s weird that the VESC won’t let current flow if your batterys are fully charged, I would think if your just braking down a hill for lets say like 10-20 seconds even on full break with even like 5-10A (hypothetically) flowing to the Lipo, that will barely charge a full, for example, 5AH 10S battery so you shouldn’t have to worry about any over charging. Anyways even if you do have to worry about it overcharging there should be something built into the VESC like some high wattage resistors to let some excess current flow for just a matter of seconds in case your LiPo is full and your braking. And I know high wattage resistors are large but even some smaller ones can dissipate a relatively high amount of current for a short amount of time. Anyways that’s just my 2 cents about the situation.

Just got my new FVT esc in I figured I would give it one more go. Any last suggestions before I maybe fry this one? (Other than VESC)

So I got the board working again. I noticed that my voltage meter was flickering on and off. I checked the main battery xt60 and it was very loose! So I pinched it a little with some pliers so that it was a tight fit and wrapped in electrical tape and everything is good so far. I think that’s how I fried my esc before.

So you’re not leaving the hobby anymore ?

Never wanted to leave. Just had my other issues figured out.