Btw you could layout a veruzend pack like your first or second picture
Here are some sizes. Its hard grasp when there is so much info Vruzend 6P: 0.285l, 366g NESE 6P: 0.200l, 364g Energus 6P: 0.174l, 322g (Assembled modules with cells, spotwelded) If compared to NESE to Vruzend: 3P NESE - 22x74x68.1mm, Vruzend - 22x88x66mm (0.110L vs. 0.127L) L for liters 4P NESE - 22x74x86.4mm, Vruzend - 22x88x88mm (0.140L vs. 0.170L) 5P NESE - 22x74x104.7mm, Vruzend - 22x88x110mm (0.170L vs. 0.212L) 6P NESE - 22x74x123mm, Vruzend - 22x88x132mm (0.200L vs. 0.255L) BTW recommended current per single cell on Vruzend is 3.5A if i’m not mistaken
Did you finish the battery what this kit. I am interested in trying the kit too.
No, I am gonna spot weld!
I’m interested also, but the low current limit on the tabs is a deal braker. What if we can change the metal tabs with another type of contactor?
Hey everyone, Micah here from Vruzend. My latest tests on the V2 vruzend kit are showing caps handling at least 20 A per cell. Actually tested up to 24A so far with Sony VTC4 cells. We’ll be releasing more info and final specs for the upgraded high current V2 kits in the next 2 weeks or so. edit: in case anyone hasn’t been following, the V2 is the copper based kit, hence the higher current ratings.
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20A per cell is a huge improvement. Thanks for continuing development.
Will v2 kits be available on the website soon?
For North American battery builders, yea. I don’t have an exact date yet, but soon. If you are outside of North America, you can already preorder the V2 at https://www.vruzend.com/international-orders and it should be shipping in a few weeks.
I just did a 17A-24A test today on the V2 kit and on spot welds, and filmed the comparison to make a video soon. Basically, there wasn’t a difference between the two that was larger than the margin of error in the test, so they are effectively equal performance.
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Hi micah, i already made a pre-order on your copper kit, my question is can the copper plat bended so we could make a flat pack, block type of pack seems not suitable for e-skate coz we put it under our deck.
Hey! Yes, the copper busbars are soft enough to bend, though I’m not sure this is the best method to achieve a flat pack. In my opinion, it would be better to make a “flexible busbar” at that point using a short piece of wire and ring terminals. That way it will be easier to reach in and tighten the nut. Bending the bus bar will make it tricky to close the nuts while reaching the terminals since the bus bars are very short, less than an inch between the holes.
In this video (skip to about 12:34 for the wire jumpers) I made flexible connections like I mentioned above for places where I needed to reach but busbars couldn’t bend to make the connection. You can do the same thing to connect two 1-cell thick rows laying next to each other to make a flat pack for skateboards.
I will be doing exactly this soon when I make a video of building a pack for an electric skateboard using the Vruzend V2 kit.
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Looking forward to the skateboard pack video! I wonder how this will hold up to the vibration our vechicles produce.
Hey Micah, what material are you making the spring cap terminals(not sure of name) from?
The piece that the bolt goes through on one side which pushes against the battery terminal on the other side(flap)
Looking forward to see your e-skate flat battery pack video, thanks for sharing. 
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Yea vibrations are intense, so using sandwich plates on either side of the caps will be recommended. Basically some flat piece of wood, hard plastic such as a cutting board, metal sheet, etc. Then zip tie or bolt the two plates together. Pretty simple but I’ll show it in an upcoming video. This will hold the caps on the cells in extreme vibration situations. Sandwich plates won’t be necessary for vibration free environments, but we don’t operate in those environments
We call those the internal contacts for short, but those and the threaded terminal and nuts will all be copper alloys, probably at least 96% copper. Pure copper would be too soft and wouldn’t have enough spring or strength for threads. Then the bus bars will be pure copper. And all of those parts will be nickel coated for superior corrosion resistance.
That what I thought. Zip ties might work very well, but I’m also concerned how those nuts will stay or do I have to add a drop of glue on top of them? Or use guality lock nuts.
What we’ve found is that because the plastic in the caps compress a bit under the busbar, it creates a compression force on the nut that actually acts like a locknut, keeping them in place. But some people still add a drop of hot glue just for insurance since it makes them feel good.
How much is V2 going to cost for an european customers?
To be honest I have no idea yet. In terms of the business side, I’m only involved in the North American affairs. My best guess is it will be somewhere around $0.50 per cap or $1 per cell, including all the hardware and everything. It will be more expensive than the V1.5 because the copper materials are more expensive and the machining processes are more complicated. Should still be less expensive than any other high power solderless/weldless kit out there that I’m aware of though.