Certified FOCBOX Suppliers | Get Focbox Unity

VESC many problems

troubleshooting
battery
vesc

#1

Hey,
I have a little problem. Well some problems…
Before I had a YEP heli ESC and i will use it for comparison.
Here are all details of my current build and problems

My E-Board specs:
213kv motor
2x 8000mah 6S battery in parallel
VESC 4.10
All-Terrain-Wheels
9:40 Gear ratio

After i charged my batteries (25,2V) i (60kg) drove about 7.1 km on a flat terrain and had 22,8V left. At the begining i could drive about 30km/h and maybe faster (did not have throttle on full).
After 3-4km I just could drive about 20km/h…

When I accelerate fully in the start of my ride i get a drop out. When i accelerate slowly i dont get it.
Later when i am stucked at 20km/h i can accelerate fully and do not get a drop out…

At the half of my ride i did a little brake (2-3 minutes) and after that i could go fast for a minute but then i get stucked at 20km/h again.

The brake is not strong at all… It brakes slowly and gently but in my oppinion to weak. Also i do not have any torque. It just accelerate slowly…
With my heli ESC I had more torque and stronger breaking behaviour!

My VESC lays on foam so i tested the heating.
I tested it several times and the VESC was always warm but it was not Hot. So i dont think it is overheating.

I installed the firmware for VESC 4.10 and the software says that 2.15 is on my VESC.
Here are my settings of the bldc tool:
Motor Configuration
AppConfiguration General
AppConfiguration PPM

In a nutshell:
(1) The speed shouldnt decrease after the half of a ride unless the cutoff is reached.
(2) The brake and even the torque should be much much higher.
(3) I should be able to drive twice as long.
(4) If i accelerate only in the beginning of a ride fully i shouldnt get a drop out?

I appreciate any help. Just tell me what and how to check and i will do it.


#2

@DeathCookies There are two ERPM settings on VESC, make sure both are at the right value. However, being able to go full speed for a while and then becoming power-limited suggests that you’re exceeding one of the VESC voltage cutoff thresholds. You probably need to edit that setting.


#3

Your VESC is overheating. Same there.


#4

Now i will share all details of my build and problem

My E-Board specs:
213kv motor
2x 8000mah 6S battery in parallel
VESC 4.10
All-Terrain-Wheels
9:40 Gear ratio

After i charged my batteries (25,2V) i drove about 7.1 km on a flat terrain and had 22,8V left. At the begining i could drive about 30km/h and maybe faster (did not have throttle on full).
After 3-4km I just could drive about 20km/h…

When I accelerate fully in the start of my ride i get a drop out. When i accelerate slowly i dont get it.
Later when i am stucked at 20km/h i can accelerate fully and do not get a drop out…

At the half of my ride i did a little brake (2-3 minutes) and after that i could go fast for a minute but then i get stucked at 20km/h again.

The brake is not strong at all… It brakes slowly and gently but in my oppinion to weak. Also i do not have any torque. It just accelerate slowly…
Also i do not have any torque with my setting which i hat before with the heli Esc. I am just accelerating very slow.

My VESC lays on foam so i tested the heating.
I tested it several times and the VESC was always warm but it was not Hot. So i dont think it is oberheating.

I installed the firmware for VESC 4.10 and the software says that 2.15 is on my VESC.
Here are my settings of the bldc tool:
Motor Configuration
AppConfiguration General
AppConfiguration PPM

In a nutshell:
(1) The speed shouldnt decrease after the half of a ride unless the cutoff is reached.
(2) The brake and even the torque should be much much higher.
(3) I should be able to drive twice as long.
(4) If i accelerate only in the beginning of a ride fully i shouldnt get a drop out?

I appreciate any help. Just tell me what and how to check and i will do it.


#5

It is in a first aid enclosure and the VESC is getting warm but not hot


#6

Take a look on live data in BLDC tool.
I measured FETS with IR Thermometer. With hands doesnt feel right.


#7

Well, i have no IR Thermometer. I did test the heat of the VESC after some rides today and every time it was just warm not hot.
The vesc lays on foam, maybe the foam reflect the heat?

Also this does not explain that i can only drive about 7 miles / 45 minutes with a 16ah 6s setup. I do only weight 60kg and i drive on flat terrain. Before i drove with a YEP heli ESC and could drive a bit longer with only one ZIPPY FlightMax 8ah 6S battery. It feels so strange…


#8

I reorganized and improved the structure of my first post from this thread. Please take the time and read it again :wink:
Some Feedback and help would make me happy even if you are guessing!


#9

Can you measure both of the lipo packs seperatly? Just guessing …


#10

I have in mind that both lipos were depleted equally. But when i am at home i will make another testride and check it exactly.


#11

My guess is you are seeing less range due to inefficient settings in the VESC. Your also running on the short side of the VESC with your battery. 10s+ will mean more torque with less heat.

And it seems you are hitting some limit with heat. At 6s, you pull many more amps, and more heat. With a single drive train at 6s, I can’t imagine the VESC staying cool. I burned up 2x 120 amp fvt escs back in the day on a 6s. While the settings had some to do with it, the VESC is rated at half of that, 60a.

My point is I would recommend putting you lipos in series to get 8ah at 12s.

More range and less heat, and I think most of your problems would go away.

In terms of the other problems, Weak braking is a sign of bad settings, so is weak torque (though again, 12s torque is much better than 6s torque). You need to learn to configure the VESC with the correct settings in order to get the performance you want.


#12

I had no problems of overheating with the YEP 14S 120a heli Esc running at 6s! Also the VESC does Not get Hot just warm.

But when i am at home i will solder a series Adapter and try again.

Bad bldc settings? I just posted pictures of my settings. Which setting is insufficient?


#13

You appear to have the motor type set to FOC, are you aware of this ?
Before you do anything else, I would advise you to set the motor type to BLDC and run a motor detection as described in this thread.
Then do a test ride and report back.


#14

Your YEP 120a esc can run at double the amps (which means it dissipates heat better also). the VESC can only run at 60a constant max.

On 6s, I bet you are hitting that 60 amp limit for most of your ride, which is heating up the VESC.

Remember, more amps = more heat.

You may need closer to 80 or 100 amps constantly with a 6s config.
Higher voltage requires less amps for the same acceleration and speed.
On a 12s config, you may need only 40 or 50 amps constantly, meaning less heat.

However, I had not checked your motor. It seems like your motor is a 10s max, you you will blow out your motor if you run at 12s.

So do NOT put the in series as I suggested before with this motor

I would recommenced a motor like the r-spec with the battery at 12s. Alternatively, you can go back to your old esc.

This motor with the VESC would take your board to whole nother level :smile:

http://www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/6374-190kv-electric-skateboard-motor/


#15

I was aware that i have setted up FOC.
Anyways i did forgot to do a Motor detection…

Yesterday i made a Motor detection and made another test run. As always i can drive about 30km/h in the beginning but after some time stucked at 20. I also do not have a good acceleration. If i make a Brake and wait for a a moment i can drive fast again.


#16

Low Voltage Cut Off

Link to your battery pack states 22.2V - the start of your low voltage cutoff is 22V

Overheating VESC - suggest :-

Take out of 1st aid enclosure and see if that makes a difference, if it does:-

Heat sink FETS
Install a 5V fan in enclosure

I had similar issue - turned out LV cut off was set too high and also VESC was overheating when enclosed.


#17

My low voltage cut off is set at 33V - 10S2P 8000mAh

I’ve just skated until LVC kicked in - measured battery at 35.8V.

Try lowering your LVC to 19.8 and see if it makes a difference.


#18

Maybe there is a voltage sag under load and the LVC kicks in too soon?


#19

Yes, exactly :smiley:

My settings provide a good LV buffer - 3.58V, can easily limp another mile or so without risk.


#20

I tested to lower the LVC but it does not help.

I will attach a fan to VESC and test it again.
I will keep you guys informed :wink: