Venice Beach Cruiser | Arbor Vugenhausen | Mono RSpec6372 | SpaceCell Pro 3 | VESC | Winning Remote

Amazon is really cramping my style today. :rage:

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finally. just rode downhill on fresh blacktop from the skateshop after assembly. ended up with 1/4" risers. no bite. this deck is so fun at speed!

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yooo where’s this fresh blacktop? Is it around Mar Vista? One of these days we’re gonna skate past each other, I’ve got my eyes open, neighbor

All parts ordered. TItle updated to reflect final revisions. Special shoutout to @JuniorPotato93 for designing a dope 12mm pulley for the kegel. Can’t wait to print those puppies

Now we wait for parts like everyone else. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuABhumm6fY

The board itself looks pretty dope. Also, I’m digging the dual monitor set up you have. :ok_hand:

thanks dude. try to keep it clean!

minor update. got some parts this week after being away for a while:

what’s everyone’s opinion on mounting the SCP3 with threaded inserts with epoxy/glue as opposed to drilling thru the deck. Unfortunately the deck I bought came gripped. :expressionless: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=node%3D16410701&field-keywords=wood&rh=n%3A16410701%2Ck%3Awood

Plan is to head to the HWstore this weekend and the pieces I need. I also plan to grab some degreaser and remove the powder coating from the motor mounts per LHB’s blog so they match the raw trucks.

I’m also thinking about sanding and staining the deck so the bottom looks like the newer model year:

and then trying to find a vinyl that I can accent the SCP3 with to match it: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/architectural-markets/home/product-catalog/~/Architectural-Finishes/Architectural-Finishes/?N=2885+8702914+8706918+3294857497&rt=c3&Nrpp=15&Nrpp=60

and down the road re-gripping with the OEM sheet (that one^^^) to tie the arbor thing all together.

still waiting on power and brains for this thing as of this moment. these projects should keep me busy until they turn up.

mine was done via drilling through the deck and mine came with grip tape alread on there. however I drilled mine slightly smaller than needed hammered them in a bit then I used the bolts (without the SCP3) to bolt through the board until it pulled the inserts into the deck snuggly. this meant that there’s a bit of excess grip under the lip of the insert

Noted. I should have mentioned that from an aesthetic standpoint I’d like to avoid drilling all the way through if possible.

ah ok, I will take a pic when my phone charges for you :slight_smile:

The one problem I have with mine is how little space I have for it. I was thinking of cutting the enclosure down to shorten it because there’s wasted space in the SCP3

How long is your wheel base?

https://www.sector9.com/shop/product/platinum-series/static-complete?color=AST

39.5" L x 9.875" W x 26.5" WB

Ah yeah - see mines 30. Don’t think I’ll have much of an issue. Are you worried about your motor not fitting or is it just an aesthetic thing?

Just aesthetics as it only just fits. Also note that the Enertion Logo comes off the enclosure very fast. Seems that it’s just a sticker

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Hahaha just noticed that you are going like the same exact build I am best of luck :joy::+1:

Tapped the pulley. Had to file down a couple bulges after a couple screw ups (my fault- impatience). @JuniorPotato93 The screw pegs broke clear off on all 5. I was careful as all hell especially on the last couple, no luck. I went on without them, I think there is plenty of threading without them.

Followed the @longhairedboy tutorial for removing the blue powder coat from the enertion motor mounts.Not too worried about the grub screw hole :slight_smile:

…and now back to your regularly scheduled waiting for parts.

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I’ve seen them break as well. There’s enough thread in the pulley to hold these on. Especially with 5 bolts. The real purpose of the studs with the trough holes was to allow a flat surface to start the tapping for the threads. They probably don’t provide much extra strength in terms of clamping force against the wheel. I could eliminate these and just reduce it to amount of material used and reduce print time marginally.

With regards to the screw bulges, the material closest to the inside is thin but that’s a limitation of the truck hangers. I too had one tapped hole bulge on me. I think it may be due to material, chips from tapping, being stuck in there and pushed as the screw passes through. I used a compressor to blow out the rest of the holes and those turned out okay. With the lock nuts version, that’s not an issue as the bolt will pass right through. Your print looks good though. It’s still kinda weird to see something I worked on out in the real world but I’m glad it’s helping people with their boards! :grinning: