Just wear a leather jacket additionally 
But joking aside it looks comfy.
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I finally got spare trucks and wheels.
I made the speed test for “demotorizing”. This is 2 mins 30 secs later. Time to do some kiting! 
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Oh cool! I didn’t know that my kiting bag was designed specifically for electric transformer boards. Those Ozone guys think about everything! 
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And they even implemented multiple carrying options! I’m impressed.
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Flip it around and you get a wheeled bag! Perfect for carrying your kiting gear around airport with style.
Looks awesome dude. I’m impressed with the 2.5 min changeover too! That’s quick! I’m looking forward to timing how quick I can change mine over now. Will undoubtedly be slower with Channel Trucks and a bolted on box - but the challenge is now set!
It’s really easy with my trucks. I believe around 1 min is realistic with some practice. The hardest part is to tighten the kingpin nut correctly. I haven’t yet figured out a clever way of making it exactly as tight as I had it before. Any tips?
@AndyBigD Wouldn’t changing the whole truck actually work better? Here’s my thoughts. Sure, it’s 4 bolts to deal with and dealing with them is not easy since you need to hold the nut while tightening the bolt. What if you put the bolts upside down though and glued them (or better, welded them) to the trucks. They would then be sticking up from the trucks all the time. You just put the board on and tighten 4 nuts. No need to hold the bolts. It seems to me that would be easy to do. Not sure if it would be faster with my trucks but I bet it would be faster with yours. No hassle with springs. No worries with how tight the kingpin nut should be.
Yeah I had originally been back and forth between both options. Main reasons against changing the whole truck were as follows; It’s fiddly to deal with the nuts within the Baseplate. (Welding bolts in can’t be done as Baseplate is Aluminium, bolts are Stainless.) I had thought about modding the Baseplates with pressed in threaded inserts but not that confident on this idea. I’d need a complete spare truck which is more expensive and heavier than just the hanger. I have a spare hanger, but I don’t have enough parts to run a full spare truck.
Springs are easy to deal with once you know the knack. I regularly change dampas anyway depending on riding locations/conditions, and can complete a change within minutes. Not much effort to then change the hanger. By changing the hanger regularly, it also has the added side-effect of regular inspections of the kingpin bushes.
I see. Makes sense. Regarding welding, you could get aluminium bolts, but I understand that’s not the only problem.
I found a spot near my apartment where I can abuse my board (mildly abuse, not like @rich :)). Here’s a short video:
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Haha, great I like the silent drive.
I tell you a secret, sometimes it happens that I ride normal
Did you find a solution yet? I think I would take a piece of wood or plastic or washers (glued together) with the same thickness as the distance between nut and end of the bolt as template, no idea if you get what I mean.
I think I understand. Or at least it’s giving me ideas, so definitely helpful, thanks. Would a torque wrench be any good?
Such upgrade! Many power!
I was happy with my single motor drive, but then I got stuck in the middle of a hill several times. Once you have to stop, there’s no way to get going again with a single motor. Also the off-road performance wasn’t great and I constantly had some wobble in the rear truck, which I thought was due to the single drive.
So I decided there’s time for an upgrade. And so it happened that Idea had the motor mount on hand and stewii had a few ESCapes left from the last group buy. It only took about a week to get all the parts in. I didn’t even have time to get a proper CANBUS connector.
I took the board for the first ride today and it’s great! The improvement in the uphill performance is enormous. I tested it on the steepest hill I could find in my surroundings. It must be at least 20% and it’s paved with cobblestone. The board made it up like it’s nothing. I could even start in the middle going straight up.
Off-road is also great. I took it through high grass. No problem at all, even when going uphill.
Only the wobble in the rear truck didn’t go away. In fact, it’s even worse now. I think I need to balance my wheels. They are both quite a bit out of balance and that’s likely the culprit of the wobble. It would make sense that the second drive made it worse.
The wiring is becoming a bit of a rat’s nest. I’ll have to do some refactoring at some point:
The only issue I had is that the motor driven by the slave ESC refused to spin when starting a few times. I attribute it to my CANBUS wiring, which currently isn’t, ehm, exactly the most solid one. 
I already ordered the proper connector, but I’m just too impatient.
Overall, the upgrade was definitely worth it! On the other hand, it’s also a bit scary. Before, even if I went full throttle when starting, I wouldn’t loose balance. There’s no way I could do it now. At one point I accidentally pushed the throttle a bit harder than intended and the board rushed forward like a wild horse. I managed to keep the balance but it was close. I definitely need to go easy on the throttle now.
The only thing that yet remains to be seen is how the added power affects the range. I hope I’ll still be getting close to 20 km on road. Otherwise I will need to upgrade the battery pack as well, which will be a bit of a challenge. I guess I would need to replace it completely since I can’t really see a good way of adding to the four 3S LIPOs. I should have listened to the advice of the more experienced ones and get two 6S LIPOs instead.
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I finally found the time to buy some balancing weights and balance my drive wheels. I should have done that long ago. It’s such a difference. The right wheel needed 40g worth of weights!
Here’s pics and a quick video.
Looking at the pictures, I should wash it as well. 
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Niiiiice, that’s proper balanced 
Just 2 hints from own experience, take pictures of your front wheels, too. After some time you’ll loose some of the balance weights and with the help of the pics you know which. Otherwise you have to balance the wheel again.
And if you e.g. change a tube then mount the tire exactly as it was ( you can take the MBS logo as reference). Otherwise it’s no more balanced. If you switch tires you probably have to re-balance.
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Thanks! I only balanced the rear wheels and I took the pictures exactly for that reason.
I thought the imbalance was due to the pulleys, so I didn’t even check the front wheels. I did check them now though and there’s indeed some imbalance as well. OK, I have some more work to do.
Mainly the imbalance is from
- Valve
- Tires
The valve weights about 16-17gr., from where I know? I cut it for science 
If the tires are balanced (some are, some not) usually 4x5gr weights opposite to the valve do the trick
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Awesome to see this it like this !
I think I will do the same soon 
thanks for sharing your video & photos 
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A few upgrades. I made a new cardbon-fibre lid for my enclosure and added DAVEga.
The lid is from cardboard again. I just added a self-adhesive carbon foil. It’s actually a pretty good material for building a top mounted enclosure. Reasonably sturdy, yet flexible and dampens vibrations. Plus, it’s cheap and easy to work with. And doesn’t look bad at all. Not sure how well it would work for bottom mounted, but I think it could as long as all components are attached to the deck and the enclosure doesn’t carry their weight (which I believe is generally agreed to be a good practice anyway).
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