I think flex 3 I’ll be ok with your weight ( 60 kg) this my boats and is a flex 1 I weight 95 kg.
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I would go with the wires on top, then a layer of GF or fiberglass - not carbon. Carbon is conductive. Are you doing round 12/10g wire or flat wire?
I’d check flex w/ just the one layer then add another on top, or on bottom.
not sure why you are CF then covering in vinyl?
Can you post a close up picture of your motor guard and how its mounted please? Ive wanted one exactly like that!
@barajabali ok, you asked for it! 
its not very expensive imo, you can laminate carbon & gfk without vacuum and you can tune a board to your liking for very few bucky imo! especially gfk with some resin costs nothing!
you buy a vanguard because of its flex and if you buy it, you know that youll have to do split enclosures. its hands down my best and most fun board and I had a few by now. but not only does it have a very lively carving nature that allows to adjust the radius with lean, but also purely with leg pressure (which is awesome fun), but it also dampens any cracks in the road to a point where I feel it wouldnt really matter what wheels I ride, because the board is taking care of it. this cool damping of the board leads to an improved grip on rough surfaces - while my tesseract & topspeed got less grippy and vibrated a lot, I can just carve over all these roads with my vanguard.
well yea, its not stiff, thank god for that! about the rest I feel like people are just chiming in with some general opinion that somehow made it stick. when I built up my vanguard I had exactly this prejudice in my head “oh god, this is probably good to 30kph and thats about it”. but nope, I rode it up to 45kph and thanks to its large wheelbase, it rides very stable! I feel like there is NO chance of speed wobble at all, and I have really pushed the board, I have braked hard after full acceleration, Ive ran through bad pavement at high speed, probably got around 1000km on the board and never ever had a moment where I thought “uh ohh!!”.
ok, at low speed that decks manoeuvrability is its only weakness in my eyes. if you cant work with your leg pressure on the deck to bend it during a turn, the turning radius is huge. and exactly that is the reason why you should NOT stiffen that board more.
youll notice that the stock board has camber, i.e. its bend like a banana with the middle being furthest away from the ground. when you stand on the board, it will level out and be nearly flat so you can swing around that point (like a cars suspension that also sinks in under its own load, so that the suspension elements can go both way from neutral position), once you carve and you push the board outside with leg pressure, it will actually bend further and youll have a rocker shape.
now, what that does is changing the truck angle massively. without load, the trucks are dewedged, i.e. the truck angle is reduced and your turning radius is large.
you stand on it and the truck angle becomes nearly neutral. now its just a long wheelbase with 50s calibers.
now when you carve and push the board out, the board bends, i.e. it looks like it has strong rocker → the truck angle now exceeds 50° and makes the board more turny. under pressure I have the smallest turning radiuses of all my builds, without pressure the largest. 
if you now stiffen the board up, youll end up with a camber shape which is not a comfortable stance (neutral/rocker is) and youll end up with an unresponsive board that has a trucks turning radius.
its the best board in my quiver, I really just love riding it! 
just leave the board as it is please, its perfect for your weight!!
the flex will make for a great lively ride that will eat up most cracks and allow really great carving. if you split enclosures, mounting is no problem at all and you will add some mild additional stiffness to the board from that alone. if you feel funky you can connect the enclosures among each other and enclosure<->motor with wires on top of the board. maybe have a look at my vanguard build thread for some ideas: Loaded Vanguard Carbon Cast Ronin Single VESC 10S4P | Endless Sphere DIY EV Forum
here you can see the 10awg wires sticking out - Ive routed channels on the boards top side:
I sealed the top with 1 layer of GFK because I simply wanted to seal the routed channels and I didnt want to change/affect the flex.
you CAN go without routing and just use flat braided copper wire under the griptape, which is what boosted are doing!
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cause wanted a matte black finish on the bottom with carbon covered enclosures, kind of if you look up matte black audi, they have carbon hoods but matte black bodies and it looks sexy af
and as for the wires i am still deciding will need to research more into it
true that. Though it’s not super difficult to do a small channel to run them flush as well:
i ended up re-doing w/ epoxy vs poly, but the final looks good to me!
i like the clean bottom on this setup - not super amazing graphics, but just super clean.
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Thanks for detailed response. I think i will ride the board first to see how it feels then decide if i want to stiffen it.
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It is a bent aluminum bar to the desire shape and attach with 2- 3m screws to the TB motor mount.
You can use one like this
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-36-in-Aluminum-Round-Rod-801647/204273994
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that is a very good idea! 
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