As soon as the highest p-groups reaches 4.2v it will stop charging to avoid overcharge, all other pgroups will be lower and won’t reach 4.2V
Thank you Eboosted! I’ll charge/drain and get them within range of each other and give it another go. I’d hoped it’d be like my EV, and once peak was achieved spend time balancing the other packs to a similar level. Evolve needs to Evolve I guess 
How many layers of nickel strips you used for each group of series? Also, I’m thinking of doing a double flat stack 10s4p build with 20 cells on the bottom and 20 on the top. Somewhat is following the diagram as a guide. What do you guys think?
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Thanks for sharing, Dude, so clear!
Burn, baby burn!
Hmmmmmm, slow…
I am using one layer of 10mmX0.15mm. You should be able to stack them no problem.
2.5 my good sir
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you might be able to charge this easily by unplugging the p’s with different cell capacity.
for example.
unplug all except c3 + c5, let that charge up to full.
then unplug them all and plug in c2, c6, c9 , let that charge up to full.
then unplug all again, and plug in c4, c8, cA, let that charge up to full.
then plug in c1, let it charge, then c7 last.
make sure you do this with a 2a slow charger, not the 4a just to be on the safe side.
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Yea man, it’s a slow process. I forget sometimes you are draining a 4 or 5 in parallel when I get impatient.
But is exactly how I did it (used a super resistor myself), balanced the 2 packs I was after, then charged the whole battery to get it where I wanted.
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Thanks man, that’s a great idea!
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Are you sure?
I just measured the plug on my friend’s Evolve charger with calipers and it was 2.1mm (the calipers read 2.0mm)
Thanks Jaydawg, I might try using my old accucel charger and go up, instead of down. Being an EV convert I struggle to find anything but efficient shit laying around to burn energy on!
Hopefully after all this it all just works, and I’ll have a good balanced pack to fly with. I’m building another pack too using VTC6 cells from Aliexpress. They all appear to be 3.9v +/- .1v . Will use insulators I laser-cut this time too
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Nice. You are quick to pick up on the good ideas dropped here by others (experienced builders), I’ve learned from them too. My first pack is for the carbon GT and the second is different in design for my GTX. Im a big fan of using PCBs 
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Wow! That’s tidy! Your balance tabs look amazing, what have you done there, far less prone to piercing wrap/insulation than my nickel poking up at the butterfly folds!
Outrageous, they LOOK like prismatic pouches, far tidier than even Evolve’s factory stuff. Love the “Positive Bus” etc. This isn’t just another level, this is another planet mate, how in the heck…
Thanks. Next round I’ll probably use fuse wire/nickel for cell leveling fusing. But the pcbs are pretty cheap (about $1 each) and minimizes any additional heat caused by the solder iron. On top I have tinned braided flat copper wire to make it a flexible pack.
The PCBs provide rigidity to each parallel pack and keeps the stress off the welds. Wrapped the pack in fish paper for added isolation
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So slick and simple. I’d love to try it myself! Can you send me the link to the braid, fishpaper and pcbs pretty please? I didn’t realise you could tack weld directly onto the pcb track. I was just looking at see if I could design a PCB with the 11 BMS tracks incorporated into the board too. Escalated into something too complex, too quickly!!!
You could but as @thisguyhere has pointed out to me and i have tested myself the copper layer on the pcb is very thin and a very slight pull on the tacked-on nickel will pull up the copper on the PCB therefore i tacked my nickel down and then covered it in solder like in the pics below.
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