Twinsen's 3D Printed NRF Remote

Hey man, nice remote! Any specific reason to go with the 3,3V Arduino?

I use 3V3 Arduino because then I don’t need a boost converter. I need 3.3v for the NRF module anyway so I would have to use the larger and more expensive Arduino Nano or a separate 3.3v regulator.

So this way it keeps everything smaller, cheaper and more battery efficient(i should get about 20 hours battery life)

It does have one minor problem that the hall sensor becomes up to 5% less sensitive on very low battery, but I can compensate for it in software if needed.

Ah i see. So do you run the nrf off of 4.2V when charged?

Very nice remote ! I like the trigger style

No, I run the NRF from the regulated 3.3v from the Arduino board regulator

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This looks great! Can i ask what kind of ESC are you using?

I use 2 of these ESCs running on 6s

with these motors

Loads of power. Also the ESCs seem to be great for mountainboards since the throttle level matches a specific RPM. And it also combines nicely with a amperage limit based on throttle.

Hello @Twinsen, I finally finished putting together the remote control. I do not know why the battery icon flashes. The load is 4.3V.

I also do not know why when I turn on the remote control it says “Exit” 50. I think I should dial 0 but it starts at 50. By pressing the dead man button the engine starts running without having activated the throttle trigger. When he wants to brake, he does not, but he keeps accelerating. I leave a video that films fast so you can see this and you can help me. Thank you!

Nice, you made one. You need to calibrate the hall sensor.

  1. Press and hold the Dead man switch while the remote is starting to enter the settings menu.
  2. Go to Throttle min, move your stick to the maximum brake position and press the Cruise control button to automatically set the value.
  3. Go to Throttle center. Leave your stick to the idle position and press the Cruise control button to automatically set the value.
  4. Go to Throttle min, move your stick to the maximum acceleration position and press the Cruise control button to automatically set the value.

If it accelerates when you brake, you need to reverse one of the magnets(the one on top of the sensor when you brake fully)

Output shows 50% when idle, 0%on full brake and 99% on full acceleration.

About the battery, I’m not sure, check your connections. Check the value of “Voltage cal. rem.” in the settings menu, it should show the voltage of the battery in parenthesis. I think I calculated for a maximum value of 4.2v. Depending on your resistor tolerances 4.3V might be too much, so try with a 4V battery.

Perfect! I already got the engine to accelerate and brake accordingly, thanks to your comments. The remote control battery still can not show the correct voltage, so I must have some bad connection. I will corroborate it later.

Thank you very much @Twinsen

After a long time I managed to make one in black.

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Oh, this exact one is mine! Very cool. I dropped it and broke the OLED after only 24hrs. :sob::sob::sob::sob::sob:. Cheap enough to get a new one on amazon.

Oh that’s a real shame. Did you manage to break the oled without breaking the plastic? I threw mine on the ground a few times when I had minor crashes and had no problems.

I chipped off a small fragment of shell near the screen

image

I reshelled it. A very solid remote.

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What is the software for your waveform acquisition? Can you share it with me?

I use a Hantek 6022BE USB oscilloscope connected to a tablet. That’s the official Hantek software, not that great really.

Thank you.

The information here is kind of out of date. New topic here with better information: https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/twinsen-s-3d-printed-nrf-remote-v2/91414

@Twinsen can you make me one for $45 usd