So I’m trying to lathe these MTB wheels. My friend has a mini lathe and he said something about using dry ice. Turns out he decided he didn’t want to do my wheels because he thought even after frozen they would generate heat too fast and create a bad surface.
Who here has done this? I don’t want to mess them up 
When your buddy runs outta juice and you have torque for dayssssssss…
If your battery is not charging 100% then you have one unbalanced pack, I’ve found all culprits of unbalanced cells are always bad solder jobs or broken nickel strips.
I’ve been riding my Trampa with 12S4P for almost 3 months daily, I checked the balance tonight and they were perfectly balanced.
So when you charge it goes all the way to 50.4v instead of just under 50v when unplugged and at rest?
I’ll check everything but I have 4 serial connections per battery so I doubt that would be it. I suppose maybe it could be nickle strips. There really wouldn’t be any way to check that wih a multimeter to see if a cell is loose because they are all in parallel correct? Only visual inspection would work here?
so I found that cell 1 is at 4.16v where the other 11 are at 4.09v. I discharged the one cell that was over voltage to match the rest. Charged all back up and the same result. It charged to 4.16 where the others were at 4.09v.
Bad BMS maybe?
Sounds like the parallel group has a loose connection
You have a connection problem between cells in one pack or between packs, one cell or pack must have reach critical low voltage, if you don’t fix it you will increase the risk of exceeding the votage limit of the healthy packs.
On my Vanguard I’ve found one cell group had a loose connection, the whole pack went bad and it has 0.02v now, I’m in the painful process of replacing the pack.
I’m not going to use nickel strips ever on a flexible deck to connect packs, I’ll use two 16AWG wires, better all around
I haven’t been following the issue and my grasp on these topics is tenuous, at best (so, feel free to jump in if you think this is misinformation, etc), but to rebalance I would suggest charging to green… keep charging for a couple hours… then stop charging and let the pack sit (at least for a couple hour or overnight) and then retest.
On my e-bike, I only would charge up to 100% about once a month strictly for balancing purposes (otherwise, I’d keep it in the ~20% to 90% range) and that method was suggested to me years ago and it has always helped if packs were drifting. My bike is at least a couple hundred cycles deep and I haven’t noticed any significant reduction in range/performance. It can take some time for BMS to do it’s thing.
I’m not sure if that’s the issue at play in this instance, but figured I’d throw it out there. Good luck.
@JLabs Still having issues with the motor bell set screws slipping on the motor shaft at the bottom of the motor. I hope we can work out a solution here as this is really frustrating.
@Eboosted thanks so much for the help. It ended up being a really hard to notice place where the nickle strip came loose on cell 1. Back to full charging to 100 percent again. Now just need to get motors as mine failed on me 
Yes, I’m sure it is… I asked that you email me with further information, thanks!
I hope you have balanced the packs before putting them back in
I hooked an automotive lightbulb up to the cell that was just barely higher and got it right on point with the others then charged the pack as a whole to get it back to where it needed to be.