Everyone with a board has been notified.
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Back on track !!
Got to love the 2 in 1 concept Will finish destroying the other hanger FOR SCIENCE then will install another truck and put back the abec11 and will keep an eye open for that one.
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Are you going to test the rubber spacer @Frank recomended, as much as I love the pneumatics feeling on bad roads I don’t like them at all on this eye candy trampa board, the MBS wheels look like they belong to the street carver board.
I really hate we don’t have any wheel options on the market
I can give it a try.
But I think that using a lathe to fasten the wheels, they can be use and keep the wide look 
Nate, … what Trucks do you ise in conjonction with your 500 miles on MBS wheels ?
Have you inspected them for fractures similar to Kaly’s
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I think its the Enertion trucks, motor mount paired with the SK3 6374 motors. I haven’t really notice any cracks or fractures on them when I was cleaning them weekly. It’s in the shop for repair and possible upgrade with @longhairedboy right now so its probably better to ask him for that info.
I’ve riden 2 boards each with more than, 800 miles on Caliber trucks and MBS wheels, no fractures on any of the trucks at all.
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@Kaly you have 2 different boards with same set up and both those boards have the same fracture in same spot?
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Hi @Nate, thats what I mean, you think everything is perfect until the part splits. Having had no issues for 800 miles doesn’t mean your board will be fine at mile 900.
Google “broken longboard truck” and you will see: Nothing is lasting for forever.
Vibrations are your enemy No.1. Try to avoid them, by riding top spec urethane and tweaking your equipment relative to the road conditions: horses for courses!
The difference in the wheel urethane is substantial. In skateboard language dampening is called “rebound”. Some urethane has 40% dampening, others 80% Making a 70 to 80% “rebound” wheel costs more than twice than making a cheap 40% one. The difference in your ride is astronomic. Twice the dampening = 10 times the comfort. If you ever tried in line skates, you know the difference between good and bad wheel sets. the first thing you realize riding good wheels is: silence Noise = is sound waves emitted from vibrating parts.
I don’t know what urethane the MBS wheel is made of, I don’t own a set, so you guys have to judge the quality. All I can say is: We use the top spec urethane and had ZERO issues in all the years we sell the board.
@Note: So the resonance just chose another spot to chew in. I prefer cracks to happen and grow, so you can see the issue before things split. Aircrafts get markings on tiny cracks and then they monitor if the crack extends. When it grows you ground the plane and change the part.
Frank
Ps.: @Ebosted: One night we rode down the park trails, using the 90mm urethane street wheels. Great fun, great drifts… To be honest: The lads had some pints down and thrashed the s…t out of the gear. Cleaning the board the next day was no fun… You can take your board down these trails using any 90mm street wheels. It’s not healthy for you or your equipment. A small stick or stone can make you fall of your board!
Those are genuine caliber IIs. No fractures in the trucks at all. Also i did receive your email and you should be getting a full report on your board tonight. I took it out on the road last night, i forget how powerful that thing is with those dual 6374 SK3s.
About the MBS wheels: I’ve got a set that have lasted about a year of very hard abuse, including smashing into curbs on occasion, running over train tracks regularly, and of course dirt roads and typical terrible sidewalks. they’re finally showing their age with cracks and small chunks.
I have no complaints with those wheels. They’re actually very good all around wheels for street and i guess what you could call sub-street. The only thing they can’t handle is loose dirt. They’ll bog down pretty quick. And if you ride them on the street long enough they’ll wear down to a smoother contact patch improving grip and reducing traction breaks.
I’m used to riding around on Kegels which are basically the complete opposite of wheels like the MBS ones and even ABEC11s. my orange kegels don’t break traction on curves unless the road is slimey or wet.
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Thank you for the honest report on the usage of these wheels with your trucks. Staying in front of issues like this is how they should be handled, and i appreciate that from you.
ITs an interesting situation indeed and i suspect that not only the knobbiness is at play, but also the total width of those giant spring trucks you’re using. Funny thing about resonance is it tends to amplify over a longer resonator, which i believe could be contributing to your issue as well. Vibration damping will definitely help and i think you’ve laid out some good advice for mitigation and resolution.
I discovered something similar was happening in my battery packs so i switched to a double layer - half length cell format which makes the whole pack stronger, but that was happening no matter what wheels where being used. Using softer wheels will help also, which is odd to me because the MBS wheels are already soft at 78a i beleive. The flywheel clones i typically use are also in that approximate durometer.
My experience with these wheels is as follows: On 180mm caliber II trucks they’re awesome and don’t seem to be causing any issues. I typically use LUXE risers which are not the softest, but do allow color matching and also easy modification for wire management, so no real damping there. Bushings don’t seem to make much difference with vibration, i’ve tried a few different durometers and barrel-cone combinations. Using silicone sealant as a “liquid gasket” on the boxes has helped a lot.
Vibration is always an issue. 99% of the problems i’ve had to resolve are due to vibrations and the effects it has. I’ve destroyed boxes and had to completely change how they’re made. I’ve had to change how i solder joints. I’ve had to change how i stack my cells. I’ve had to change how i mount my ESCs and even where and how i mount the receiver.
but to lighten the mood a little, here’s why its worth it…
@nates board starting from a dead stop on grass which is ridiculous in my opinion for a non-FOC, non-sensored motor setup on 100mm urethane wheels with a 14/36 ratio
tearing down a dirt road:
taking the side streets on the first AT board i built:
ignoring the streets completely on this hill:
jake doing burn outs in the dirt on my new motors with his monster build
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@longhairedboy very nice shots you got there! Cool thing you shared them!
In comparison, I do think the pimples / shape of the wheels help when going on grass or not so good terrain… heck, @longhairedboy even went down the hill with loose rocks and ‘‘survived’’ more or less…
Would be cool to see someone else doing the same ‘‘stunts’’ with ‘regular’ abec / longboard wheels, to see how they perform and can they '‘climb’ up a grassy hill like that…
I’m pretty sure, you can do the same stunts with ABECs and get a softer ride too, but they are more expensive. The pimples on the MBS are nice but you don’t need them at all.
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yeah ! agree with that. I’m sometimes riding all terrain with my kegels but that’s more for the fun of it or practice slide than any other thing. Almost one year ago ! times goes by so quickly ! sorry for the intro/add; I usually tag my videos but I’m not advertising anything 
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How far does the Trampa’s truck Axle go into Hanger ??
…That’s one big difference between these trucks and conventional truck that the axle goes all the way through.??
“And the cracks begin to show” Nice music in that video. Perfect for this discussion. Lol 
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The problem with my boards is that when they get out in the woods they want to get drunk and ornery and then you can’t catch them. Seriously you can’t take them anywhere.
and then they run off on you and you don’t see them for months at a time and then one day you’re hanging out by a big pipe with your homies and…
so yeah i mean all kinds of issues can arise when you go off road on urethane.
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@longhairedboy Dude, you’re a never ending source of entertainment! This place wouldn’t be the same without you. 
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To summarize all this, there are 4 options to fix this issue:
- Flatten the MBS pimples on a lathe (unconfirmed fix)
- Add a rubber ring between the spring retainers and the deck (unconfirmed fix)
- Use Abec 11 97mm 75A flywheels (impossible to get them ATM)
- Use ABEC 11 107mm 74A electric flywheels (impossible to get them ATM)
I’ve heard the ABEC 11 is going to have their flywheels at last back in stock in a couple of weeks but couldn’t find the information online anywhere, hope that’s true.
@Eboosted: Or use 90 mm Stickies, back in stock in a couple of days.
@Randyc1: the axles sit 46mm deep in, pressed in and glued. 15 Years without any issues… The hanger is basically a trimmed version of the MTB hangers, which are a lot wider and have a lot wider axle shafts (+16mm). I ride the wide Ultimate MTB Trucks with street wheels, having ZERO issues. http://www.trampaboards.com/the-ultimate-titanium-truck--white-range-with-titanium-axles--kingpin--super-light-p-11148.html. I use the Street Carve Baseplate and ad the inner sping position on the Hanger myself.
@OKP: I did also convert the Infinity to have inner spring positions. Lush Board and 8" compatible: Downside: I had to get the axle pins out and lathe them down for street wheel use (you don’t want to do that unless you have access to a workshop with a press and the like).
With regards to wheel softness: Its not the softness, its the dampening characteristics that play a role. A soft wheel can still have low dampening! To kill vibrations you need the best dampening (rebound), not softness.
I think a rubber washer under the spring retainers will help a lot, since it will kill the vibrations in the exact spot where the problem occurred. Hard vibrations can’t travel up the springs and back, which was the problem in my eyes (resonating springs, caused by the wheels frequency emissions). Dampas will also prevent that. When using regular quality slick wheels there is no issue, since no resonance will occur. We sold tons of Street Carvers (since 2013) and had ZERO issues. Customers usually come back to us if something fails. Zero returns till today. This is why I can tell you there is something funny with the knobbled wheel… The knobbles seam to cause a resonance in the springs. The location of the crack shows that pretty clear. We never ever had a split hanger with a crack in that special location. This is why I’m quite optimistic that a simple rubber washer will solve the matter. Kaly will find that out for us.
@Randyc1: Try them vibrators and in case your hanger slits, we will ship new ones. Since this hanger is forged from a special high grade aircraft alloy + heat treated, you will not see a sudden fail of the product but rather a slowly growing crack. There is no danger when you inspect you truck once a while! Forging is expensive - you can find forged Longboard hangers for a good amount of $. Casted Trucks would fail suddenly (brittle aluminium). You can bend a vertigo hanger (e.g. on a machine) without splitting it apart. Casted handers don’t bend, they split. The most common locations are the corners of the Baseplate or the pivot cone or the pivot cup housing and the Kingpin. In some cases your truck comes apart all of a sudden without any warning. Ever piece of equipment will fail one day! Its only a matter of time… Kingpins are being bent slightly all the time (left right left right left right left right left right). After thousands of those movements they simply split.
Frank
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