Glad to see other people going for the hard carve. I use my board for burning my legs out maxing snow board like turns in my neighborhood.
Now to the point. I purchased a used E-glide GS and modified it to carve much harder. Maybe these mods will help with your set up.
All of these mods can be done with the trampa, especially if you mount battery on the top. For on road riding you really don’t need that much clearance.
Lowered board by extending the nose and tail with aluminum plates to mount trucks higher up relative to the deck to lower the CG. This is major…
I had remove the front aluminum plate to raise the front after I got a new mbs truck that is lower than old model because it the made battery box too low. At some point I want to get slimmer batteries and box to drop another inch or so.
Decanted back truck with washers as experiment and never changed it. This really helps the board follow through turns with out the rear spinning out. Decanting allows for good lean angle with less turn from the truck. You can do this with both trucks for higher speed turns. I think my board is tuned for max lean and carve at about 12mph.
Removed the springs in the front truck, so board is really loose and I can dig the nose in for tighter turns, like on a snow board.
Added the Cheng Shins that fit the mbs tri-spoke hubs. I was blowing through mbs and rounded street tires in a few sessions. I never go in a straight line. These wide flat Cheng Shins grip like hell and last forever. Cheng Shin 8 X 3.00-4
Batteries are cheap and you are not going for stealth transport vehicle, so who cares if the tires are not that efficient.
I think I will add some foot straps next for a little more security when Im leaned in hard.
Trampa’s battery box (pictured below) doesn’t include a place for an ESC, so that issue remains. My current thinking is to mount the at least the VESC and receiver where the Trampa battery box is mounted. I’ll figure out where to mount the batteries later, but, inspired by Boosted, if I mount the batteries in some place other than the rear, I’ll likely run power to the VESC via flat, braided wire, insulated with Kapton, and taped to the bottom of the deck.
Nice to see our boards arriving so fast. We do our best to deliver fast. Thats waht you guys want, don’t you?
I would reverse the hangers if you custom build your mount. This way you get a lot more wheelbase and space for your feet. Just take out the springs, release the kingpin and turn around the hanger 180°. Thats how we ride our MTBs.
Hangers in MTB position will let you be able to mount the springs in the inner position when using the 7" tires. You can also try to mount the spings in outer position (rear) and inner position (front), or vice versa. Just try waht is best for you.
Nice! Did you realize that our pulley is not symmetric. The center ring, having the bolt holes in, is not located in the center of the teethed pully surface . One side measures 7.75mm, the other 8.75mm (edge of pulley to surface of center ring). This way you can offset the pulley 2mm further in or out, depending on your built and used spacers. We use 17mm long M4 hex spacers to space off the pulley.
Yep, I’ve spaced them out equally on each wheel. I’m using a 15mm belt which is narrower than the pulley, so a mm left or right won’t affect the performance.
But I did make sure to orientate each pulley the same way for the two wheels.
Also, the bottom support will get its own set of holes instead if piggybacking off the motor mount slots like it is now. That was just for temporary mockup purposes
