TorqueBoards motor mount comes loose

I don’t have a 4mm hex socket, but this is what I used.

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Well that should apply enough torque for sure?

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Haha… now you guys are just trying to break things. lol

For the M8 Set Screw, you’ll want to use an Allen Hex Drive Size 4 mm. Using something different, you might strip it or the tool.

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You are a frikkin super hero brother :slight_smile:

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Haha not purposely. However, mine has still come loose when I used the 4mm hex tool independently and with the breaker bar. Last time I went out, both mounts came loose and starting rubbing the wheel gears.

You may need to repair the hanger surface at this point. You can fill the set screw holes in the hanger with JB Weld, let it cure, then sand. You may even wet sand to get a cleaner surface. All that being said it may be cheaper to get a new hanger, I have some laying around I’d let go cheap or if you are out of the US it shouldn’t be hard to find a used one.

A tb 218 hanger? I can always switch the front and back hanger if needed. Although I am not sure why this is happening to my setup?

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i really like the old Enertion mounts so i pulled them off my old Raptor 1 and used them on my dual 6374 build and now im using the TB mounts on the Raptor i need to torque them like what was stated. i did replace my screws because i lost them all during my first ride with the mount lol.

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I am using the old C type TB clamps on my Liquid Precision trucks and the new D type TB clamps on my TB 218mm trucks. Both have been as solid as a rock.

The clamping technique that @mmaner mentioned helps a lot with the C type because it allows you to get the clamp a lot tighter without stripping the bolt head or threads. You can also use a vise if you have one and that works even better.

For the newer D type ring, What @torqueboards mentioned “tighten them into a corner “ is key. Here are the steps I used and my mounts have never come loose. 1: remove the bottom and forward set screws. 2: Then fully tighten the top and rear set screws and crank them down as tight as you can with an Allen socket on a ratchet. NOT an Allen wrench. Allen wrenches are too weak. 3: after the top and bottom screws are as tight as possible, and the ring is tight against the bottom and forward sides of the hanger, then install the bottom and forward screws and crank them down.

These are the Allen sockets I use:

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Tested today and the screw is strong for sure. I managed to broke the allen bit in the screw… Going to the shop to get a superstrong allen bit now.

Next project is getting this bit out off the screw. This is my mistake nothing to do with the mount, bancho tools never failed me before but now it did.

Any suggestions is highly appreciated on how to get it out.

I’m going to torch you and feed you to the fishes

Now I’m happy again…:blush: Bought this, hopefully it’s strong enough

Update So now ive tighten all the bolts in the correct order according to dekoz video. TIghten them to the point where i can feel that if i was about to do more it would either round the insert or snap the hex.

Will let you know if it holds up.

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@torqueboards, i have the same problem… i even used my cordless baby impact on it w/ blue loctite and it STILL comes loose (allbeit takes a week or so as opposed to every ride) and its not just the ring that makes contact on the trucks, its the motor part too, i have broken 2 allen keys in 1 motor and cant even toghten those anymore… i am waiting for them to wiggle loose so i dont have to drill out metal so close to my motor and on top of tht, this failure caused one of my motors can to be destroyed. when i reached out to y’all on the site i was told to buy a new motor, even after offering to buy a new can… i have since bought anything from y;all but your product works and i still refer people to you regularly

Y’all wanna know how to do it the real way?

Go to Bunnings and buy some hex head bolts, now you can torque the living shit out of em. I did this and snapped the M6 bolt (the threaded bit) before I stripped the head.

Also @Namasaki is right drilling little holes a few mm into the truck works a treat that way the truck can’t slide even if the set screws do come a little loose

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honestly im about to tap my trucks and use a hex head lol, however these are issues that TB needs more input on and should address… most people aren’t as understanding as i am… im patient… i can usually fix most things that are broken, to include the can tht was dented… however im at a wall with finding the right sized magnets to replace the broken ones

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I’ll work on creating a new option. :+1:

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Impact guns don’t produce that much torque lol. Impact guns are like slide hammers for bolts. They beat the bolt loose. You don’t ever see a mechanic (one that is good) use an impact to tighten things, they use torque wrench set or ratchets.

Yeah, I wouldn’t use an impact gun. You also got to use the proper tools that’s why we have them. :slight_smile:

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Speed and uneven payment play a role for me. I bring my backpack with small tools and hardware on my esk8 journeys. I’ve had nuts fall off axels, lose motor mounts, deck hardware go missing, broken magnets in motors, and belts that disappear. It feels good to have tools and hardware on hand to fix, tighten, or call a friend/uber.

I like to do a multi-inspection before I roll out to make sure mounts, motor mounts, and wheels are good. Uneven payment sucks, avoid as much as possible or go slow.

This thread has helped me, because my form on installing mounts was amateur style.

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I had the same issue, I just used red loctite. If I ever need to take it off, I just need to heat the bolt up and back it out.

I have a lot of rough roads here (Batimore city) which causes mine to loosen.