well I ran into this problem using a hex bit and torque wrench. Any suggestions on what bolts to get that would be stronger?
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@pennyboard - PM us. Weāll send you the new clamp. Send your email, order #.
@Mikenopolis - Why would you need to torque it that hard?
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It wasnāt hard at all. I think it was actually weakened because it was pulled off three time after blue loctite cured. This motor was giving me issues. This actually broke off when I was trying to remove it
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Thatās possible, bolts stretch over time with use especially with high torque application.
I usually hit my pulley for a few seconds with a Mapp/Pro gas torch and my locktight 680 just melts away letting the bolt easily come undone.
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Hex head if you want max torque. But there may be clearance issues with the head, so you might need longer bolts. 10.9 grade is roughly equivalent to grade 8 (very hard). 12.9 is harder, but not as available hex head
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_hex_bolts_Zinc_plated_class_10.9_steel_8mm_x_1.25mm.aspx
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_tap_bolts_Zinc_plated_class_10.9_steel_8mm_x_1.25mm.aspx
socket head allen if clearance is an issue, 12.9:
https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_cap_Class_12.9_steel_black_oxide_finish_8mm_x_1.25mm.aspx
And to pollute the post with irrelevance, I like albanycountyfasteners.com for stainless steel stuff. s/s is not nearly as hard as carbon steel, and has problems with āgallingā.
Mike I know torque wrenches usually have long handles and lots of leverage, but the micrometer types will actually go out of calibration if you reef on them. Chance to buy more tools yay! 
harborfreight has reasonably priced decent quality breaker bars (even ratcheting ones) and large ratchets. Telescoping handles ones too. Look for the Taiwan stuff, usually much higher quality than China. I especially like this double jointed thing:
Itās surprisingly beefy, and you can use the double jointed thing to do like a continuous drive for spinning things on quickly.
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same thing here, imma have to cut the shaft when I need the motor off
I drill it out and replaced it with a new pulley
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Has anyone seen the redesign of the TB clamp? I was just recently able to connect with TB and curious to know what changes have been made.
Thanks!
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I received the new clamp this week and was pretty excited to try it out. The 2 piece design is superior to the old single piece. Itās much easier to secure and naturally wants to stay plumb/square on the axle.
Iām using the TB 180mm V2 trucks. Once I tighten down the clamp I can only get 3 bolts on the clamp. The 4th bolt interferes with the motor mount. Any one else run into this problem?
Here are some pictures:
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Did you have heat shrink included with your clamp? Might be good to try a wedge of heatshrink between the hangar and clamp to see if that fills out the needed space
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I did get heat shrink but didnāt know what it was for. The clamp was put on the truck bare, no heat shrink. I might try riding around on 3 bolts and see how the motor mount does.
Because the clamp is in two pieces and the 180/218 trucks have a different height size a bit.
Use the heatsink as a spacer so the holes align properly.
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I became so frustrated with my tb motor mount that I purchased jb weld and locktite red. Applied generous amounts of jb weld under the clamp. Then, used all my pent up anger to drive in the set screws with locktite red. Lasted over a year so far, no problems.
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I think j itās worth saying, @torqueboards that was very cool of you to replace all these mounts. It shows again your commitment to both customers and the community.
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This x 1,000. Wasnāt sure about TB since Iām new to the scene. But getting a chance to see their rapid response and quick product development showed me their loyalty towards customers. Thanks guys!
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They didnāt replace my mounts at all. They told me to pay 15$ shipping, and they would send a new āclampā.
@kiryl yeah, you unfortunately need to pay a bit for international shipping. 
We are still covering part of the shipping costs as well. Iām sorry that isnāt enough for you.
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Even then, the old mounts still workā¦ they are just a heck of a lot more painful to setup so that they work greatā¦ but itās possible. Iāve been riding my old style mounts, havenāt adjusted a thing in months / 500+ miles of riding, no sign of coming loose soon, and nothing special like JB weld, just a dab of standard loctite blue, a shim of thick heatshrink and torquing down the set screws with a standard hex key in the proper order: furthest opposite to motor side first, next furthest opposite to motor side next, loosen furthest a tad and torque second to furthest side harder, then tighten the first furthest side hard again, then tighten the other two closest to motor side last, no need to go crazy torque on these last two. The whole point is to have the metal faces of the hangar and mount clamp touching and hard interfaced on the two faces closest to the motor.
The new clamp style mounts simplify all thisā¦ Just clamp it all down and you are good to go.
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