You would think so, but I do it on a regular basis. Its typically the repetitive tighten/loosen routine that gets them. Stainless is pretty and great if you don’t NEED to torque a bolt down, but if you gotta lay down on it to get whatever subrate to be still, stainless is gonna be an issue.
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If you are going to 3D print your enclosures, buy a roll of fiber tape and reinforce the inside of the enclosures. It will strengthen your enclosure a lot and there is no risk of splitting apart.
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Another tip: take some time and look through the websites of 3m, loctite and permatex. They have so many different types of glue, sealant, threadlocker, bearing retainer, etc that it makes sense to familiarize yourself with them. And get a couple bottles, because threadlocker is always always a good idea.
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Ok so people dump XT connectors for bullets to save space, usually 4-6mm tops, right?
Well get this, 8mm bullets take up LESS space 
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New tip: Get some high quality drill bits, and use a good cutting oil when drilling metal. I spent today at work making 1/8" holes through 1/2" pieces of mild steel. I did over 150 with a single drill bit, and it still looks good as new. If I were to use the usual Chinesium drill bits I have at home, I would have broken like five.
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Afraid of battery fires?.. This won’t stop thermal runaways but it will delay the cascade allowing you to potentially ditch just the battery or worst case the whole board. This is fantastic if some auxillary component in your enclosure ignites, if insulated with this, it will stop the fire and prevent spreading to the battery.
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I wonder if I should pot my cell blocks in that stuff.
I don’t know if potting with it is a good idea…it would explode out of whatever it’s in when the sealant expands. I’ve found it best used to isolate components, around main connections. Something has to catch fire for it to “work”
This might be good for wrapping a pack or lining an enclosure
It says a whole lot about what it isn’t, but not much about what it is.
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Lol `An easy-to-dispense, non-asbestos, inorganic material designed to be used as an alternative packing material to mineral wool, fiberglass and backer rod in through-penetration firestop systems. With excellent strength and flexibility characteristics it is an ideal through-penetration packing material.
Installation-friendly material is easy-to-dispense and its compact packaging is optimized for portability. The smooth-textured woven material can be torn by hand, eliminating the need for a knife. 3M™ Fire Barrier Packing Material PM4 material is less irritating to the skin when compared to conventional mineral wool. Meets International Building Code (IBC) and other key life safety building codes. Also meets International Residential Code (IRD) as a stand-alone fireblocking material.`
not rock wool, not asbestos, not fiberglass, inorganic. Not as irritating as rock wool…
10101010
-Get the angle of baseplate you want, not a wedge riser, it feels better.
-Don’t be cheap on wheels.
-Clean your bearings every 50-100mi to keep them fast
-Wax is your friend, pack your pivots and bushings with cheese grated wax. Feel the steez, feel the surf, none of the binding, none of the noise
-bearing or pulley pullers or arbor press to remove stuck on motor pulleys, pull from the ass of the pulley not the middle. If you can’t get behind the pulley, undo the motor shaft set screws, pull the shaft out with the pulley then press the pulley off. Boom nothing is destroyed and its reusable.
-nose guards on vertically laminated bamboo, yea I know you dont care your nose gets bashed up, but bashed up noses on vertical bamboo is asking to split your board down the middle
-if you have a board that is known to have wheel bite, wider trucks > risers. Keep that center of gravity low and increase the width of your truck instead of using risers for fitment, wider = more stability, narrow = more divey… (Similar to tkp vs rkp of the same width truck)
-bullets, once you know your good, separate your bullets in your build slide some heat shrink over them and then heat shrink them together to keep from vibrating apart.
-when you get a charger, and your setting up your board with a BMS. A lot of the times the chargers put out their “rated voltage” with no load, but it doesn’t account for the Batteries Internal Resistance while loaded. Before assembling your board, allow your battery to charge to the max the charger will do, ensure your BMS hits all the cells balance voltage, and ensure that with the charger connected you are reaching your charge voltage, if not adjust the pot so the battery reaches charged voltage while the charger is plugged in, this will ensure your BMS ALWAYs hits balance voltage and your not just guessing did it balance. Know before you bolt up your enclosure
-hard bind your remotes, and set failsafes properly! Don’t trust an autobind.
I’m sure I have more…just can’t think of any ATM…
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