How exactly did you solve this charge issue @Sender? Im struggling with the same scenario and cant for the life of me figure out why it wont charge…
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For me it was an intermittent connection issus do to flux inside a male bullet connector.
Thanks, i checked everything and found that one of my p groups was dead😑 so i have take it all apart and swap out those cells
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What do you think happened?
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Well i fried my first bms accidently shorting a phase wire. Im guessing that is what f***ed up my 3 rogue cells and the new bms must be working perfectly being able to detect the dead group and prevent charging🤔
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So first harder ride today.
In order:
After a break:
So I know thats a lot of stuff, but you experienced guys check it out.
I noticed a lack of power towards the end ( still plenty of voltage). I could easily full throttle instead of it being super fast. Marked reduction. I think it is due to the Temperature threshhold cutting it back?
It was on some speed runs down an open street. Does that make sense? I just want to attribute for that marked difference in throttle feel. Thoughts?
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Yeah, the temp is kind of high. I actually had my BMS cutout on me a few times on a ride saturday, but it was 97f outside ans I’m sure the asphalt was hotter than that and I was riding pretty hard.
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that speed though…so much fun 
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I was pushing that hog for sure. And it is pretty hot out. I am wondering, does the FOCBOX reduce output when a certain temperature threshold is reached? Aka, is this normal behavior?
I think its an attempt at saving itself, so yeah its intentional 
I actually thought it only cut out around 80 degrees celsius. Although I think it’s can be changed in the Vesc setup
So I was actually looking the ackmaniac app just now how can u see your amp draw along your route.m I notice some 0f my data is missing 2… it’s a,really cool though 
nice speedies…
Yep, so does a BMS that is wired for charge/discharge. I thing the cutoff start is 80c and the cutoff end is 100c by default. I’m not sure, but I think the temp you see in the Ack app is the motor temp, not the VESC temp.
So as others have said… Temps.
I know I TD ya on the phone but gonna post here for others. Becareful with summer heat, we have been having regular demagnetizing when sustaining over 30mph with the heat outside.
A few buddies and I with different boards all did a ride and log at sub 30, mostly holding around 27-29mph, and pulling between 2.9-7a per motor at speed.
We did a follow up with +30 speeds sustained and I am pulling 10-20a per motor,and my heavier friends in the 20-40a at sustained 35-38mph. we’ve been taking the boards out cold, to try to avoid lock ups.
End result is basically we can rid all day sub 30, we may deal with focbox thermal throttling, but motors fine. If +30 is sustained, motors get to the point of demagnetizing and flipping poles which has caused us to have some pretty fast bails from motor lockup. Motors returning to normal once cool.
Basically what I am getting at is as little as 750W continuous for any sustained time, on 85F+ days, results in heat soak from hot pavement (140-170f measured with laser temp) and not much space between motors and pavement means they’re getting cooled with air that is almost at demagnetizing temps.
Stay out of the thirties until it’s cooler outside.(night/evenings/early mornings should be fine)
Tell tail sign of motor heat is a vrrr vrrr vrrr feeling like the motor is engaged in braking or throttle when no throttle is being applied.
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So I noticed some cogging on one of my motors during start from a stop. Definitely a sensor issue, but weird because everything detected fine before.
So I ripped the enclosure off, and tried to redo hall detection and got a bad reading.
I upped erpm on Hall sensor tab to 5000 and to read at 10a. Still nothing
Tried a different motor on the focbox and it detected fine.
I did extend the sensor wires, so I redid all those (I was hoping I just had a bad or broken solder joint on one of the sensor wires.
Still no detection. I even pulled the motor apart, nothing seemed broken or out of place on the sensor board.
I reassembled and still no hall detection. Motor detection is fine of course.
Anyone have any suggestions? I can take some more pics of settings if there is anything you need to see.
Luckily I have a @JLabs motor which is essentially the same thing in black (same brand, size, and kv). But it would be lame to have one black and one chrome motor.
Unfortunately I don’t know where to hunt down a sensored sk3 190 kv in chrome…
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BTW, those values that are on there now in the pic are from the original detection.
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Ya i had cogging also, I gave up went senseless 
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What kind of motors?
I had no cogging for 40 miles but then it began and I hooked it back up and I can’t get detection again.
It would almost make more sense to me if it never worked properly
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did you try redo the hall detection in bldc first?
edit: cause a lot of people detect in bldc first then in foc
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