Oh my god. It is fucking rad. It blew my mind how quiet it is. Sooo smoothe.
I still have stock throttle curve, I want to hone that in a bit, I would love to hear what people are doing there and how they like it.
Sooo much more power. So much range. I rode around a route that I take my boosted board on (and kills my battery), and I still had 94% battery. Craziness.
I thought the boosted board got a lot of looks, but people come over in droves to see it, ask questions about it, offer to buy it, ask me to make one for them.
I do need to tighten my belts a bit, I think I am getting a little slippage on harder braking, but never on accelerating. At first I thought it was my unbroken wheels skidding a bit, hard for me to tell TBH.
I started with them SUPER loose though. Details, details.
dude it sounds sick. that first time feeling on your DIY!
I freaking love your build, much care and thought so i’m glad you’re enjoying it that battery is insane!
When I get home i’ll take a pic of my throttle curve, imo it’s a bit weird but I like the feel of it. I think this is where I spent the most time tuning!
So this is how i had it when i was on ackmaniac 2.54, on 3.1the braking curve takes the same shape as the acceleration curve and they are both more less step and slightly more linear. It takes a lot of tuning but this is a nice start.
Gotta ask yourself;
Hard acceleration or easing into it
Hard brakes or soft with increased intensity as i continue to pull
Today is my tuning day! First on the docket was to figure out why I wasn’t getting telemetry.
I was about to pull off the enclosure (ugh), but deleted the ack app, reinstalled and connected, BOOM! Telemetry coming through, problem solved… took 2 minutes.
What do you do WRT throttle curve?
Just set up my @Ebisane9 throttle curve to try out! Thanks man! I will report after I check it out
I thread all 4 screws until tight and then back off 1/8 turn, put the wheel and belt on, tighten the wheel, slip the belt on both pulleys. The last part takes a little fiddling…
Put the hex key in the outermost screw, pull the motor back until you have the right belt tension then back off about a 1/16 in. Tighten that one little bastard of a screw you’ve been trying not to knock the hex key out off .
Pull the wheel off and tighten the other 3 screws, put the wheel back on and test the fit.
You will lose that 1/6 in you backed off when you tighten everything else up.
Honestly, not really. I’ve run 50mm motors for a couple of hundred miles with only 2 screws, but that one time the motor slips and the wheel binds on the belt (equals sudden and maddening stop) will ruin that for you forever.
Let me know how that goes! definitely isn’t a one stop shop. @mmaner and i actually have similar curves. the difference being you can’t really smooth out the curves on 2.54 if i remember correctly. Looking at his curve;
Initial acceleration is very nice, then it eases off a little bit and picks up as you continue to pull the throttle.
Initial Braking is harder as well, then as you slow down the intensity reduces and you can ease into a stop
It’s a nice curve he has set up. Give them all a try
Yeah, its vastly different between 2.54 and 3.x. I have mine built so that the acceleration and braking are slow response at the beginning and the progressively faster as you increase the throttle. This seems intuitive to me as most control issues happen at slow speeds, there’s not much difference in balance from 20 to 25 mph but there is a ton between 2 and 7 mph.
that battery is insane!
When I get home i’ll take a pic of my throttle curve, imo it’s a bit weird but I like the feel of it. I think this is where I spent the most time tuning!
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