Thankyou @Eboosted for this post! Can not recall a time when I didn’t fall at the last hurdle because of a tiny element. In between builds right now so time to start accumulating. I love adding to cart!!
Side note; What spot welder would you recommend?
this one any good. Not for any kind of commercial use just my own repairs etc.
Ain’t nobody got time for facegram or snapbook or instachat or whatever.
I’d just recommend soldering the wires and using silicone conformal coating or some other conformal coating like polyurethane or acrylic after you connect them.
I tested them, they’re good, i think especially for extending motor sensor wires. I’ve not found a stronger small splice. I prefer to crimp, but these are just so small.
And guys I just got some split loom wire braid. These are PET. cheaper but not so heat resistant. Best bets seem to be TechFlex F6 or Wang-data on amazon
Upgrade version, this stuff is heat resistant and not open weave, so will resist dirt/moisture. Comes with self-fusing silicone tape to do up the ends. It’s not as rigid as above but I think better for the motor phase/sensor wires.
A couple of recent additions to my toolbox. Beginning my other build with ESCapes which requires some jst tinkering. Picked up these to make can cables and JST-PH ends for the PPM servo cable. Can also be used to make jst cable adapters (probably won’t for this project though as I will be swapping pre-existing wires) or to attach new ends to connections that have come loose. I think from now on I’ll just buy connectors I need and make any new cables lol Gotta collect something am’i’rite
Especially those two on the left. You can use women’s clear nail polish as a substitute for the acrylic conformal coating but it’s not as good as the special-purpose stuff.
Amazon, MG Chemicals Acrylic Conformal Coating, and silicone conformal coating.
The price jumps around on the silicone.
There’s a urethane conformal coating too.
But the other two are the main ones needed.
Normally $10-$15 each. (silicone is $20 atm)
I get them from eBay. You can probably skip the Urethane one. Get the other two.
The acrylic one is watery and can get in tight places. It’s very thin - you can put a single coat on a heatsink even.
The modified silicone one is a tad thicker and more robust and seems better to deal with vibrations and possible physical contact. I would keep it away from heatsinks as it may act as a blanket.
Basically, I use the modified silicone one unless I have to use the acrylic one. The acrylic one has a more aggressive solvent too that will turn any kind of electrical tape and similar things into a pile of goo.
Acrylic for - heatsinks, tight places where you can’t get a brush
Silicone for - everything else
Urethane for - places fingers will touch (loopkey), where you need THICK
Acrylic & Silicone more “internal and on PCB” and Urethane more “external and enclosure”
They all glow under UV so you can check if you missed any spots.