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The Steve | Generic Deck | TB Hardware | SK3 245 | TB6S ESC | FS GT-2B


#1

Hi everyone! New member here, only just signed up but been lurking for a few weeks. Got a couple of questions for my first build for a co-worker. Most parts are on the way I just need advice on motor kv & battery choice. The rider weight - 65kg, required range - corner shop / local park, requested speed - faster than walking, terrain - flat. The calculator is of little help as most common motor choices work. At 6S heat will be an issue. What SK3 would you suggest for him? What 6S? Zippy Flightmax 20C? Does anything ‘wrong’ stand out with these parts? I have an RC/electronics background but no skate knowledge. Any and all help appreciated.


#2

Flatland, slow, if you stay between 230 and 300kv and you’ll be fine.


#3

Thanks, would this suit him better?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_32077__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_6364_245kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor_AU_Warehouse.html
It would seem easier to layout 2 X 3S than 1 chunky 6S, can he get by with 2X these?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_16748__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_20C_AU_Warehouse.html


#4

2x3S is a good way to do it. 245kv is probably perfect for 6S as well.


#5

Awesome. Now begins the waiting game for the elusive SK3. I’ll post pics / more questions as it goes together in a couple of weeks.


#6

The package from DIY Electric Skateboards came Wednesday last week. Couldn’t get to it till last night, life stuff. Came to Australia quick (about 9 days I think) and was packaged really well with all parts separated in the box. Box smelled like off milk, probably the wheels off gassing or something. All in all pretty impressed. Missed the free shipping option the first order but will take advantage when I stock up on parts for other builds.

The deck needs clear coating as it was originally purchased for an airbrushing project for someone else who changed their mind. Freezing here atm, so waiting for better spraying weather.

Thought I’d assembly the drive wheel as it’s the only part I can currently. Had a little trouble the first try as it ended up offset. Got it perfect on try 2 but have no idea how. @torqueboards Is there a trick to it? I have a few builds planned for myself / others and would like it to be a little easier.
Also searched the forum & found this:

Was really helpful understanding what to do. I’ve used them on racing drones but they all differ ie. remove red wire or don’t setup on your flight batt, so on.


#7

@Astrolite_A15 - The trick is all the bolts that come with are fully threaded.

  1. 3 Adjacent Bolts from the pulley end into the pulley. This is to keep the pulley 100% flat against the wheel and line in up.
  2. Go from the front w/ the Retainer Washer and do the opposite 3 Adjacent Bolts from the washer into the pulley.
  3. Back out the bolts on the pulley end.
  4. Put the bolts in from the front to make a total of 6 bolts.

#8

Awesome, just what I was looking for. Now I can’t wait to try again on the next build.


#9

The FS GT-2B arrived today from Banggood. It’s smaller than I expected.

He may be happy with it as is.
The SK3 245kv came in stock in AUS today, so placed my order for it, the Lipos & some connectors (only had 5mm not 5.5).

Only hold up now is the clear coat for the board. Might have to set up my DIY spray booth in the house as the forecast is for 10 degrees for the next week or so and I need to get this done.


#10

Yeah… He was NOT impressed by the GT-2B size, even with the future possibility of changing the case (no 3D printer yet). So placing an order tomorrow for Winning remotes and a selection of parts for the next guy to choose from.

Got the deck clear coated, had to heat up the lounge room & set the spray booth up in there as it’s still between 10 & 15 degrees here. First time using it, was cool, looked like a drug lab!

Just as well I’m placing that order. Just went to start adding parts to the deck & noticed I only received 1 riser! Used the “Contact Us” section on DIY’s site, hopefully I can throw it in with my order tomorrow. Guess I’ll go play video games. :disappointed:


#11

Didn’t hear back from the Contact Us page, I might have miss typed my email or something. Tried the instant chat thingy and got it all sorted. Another win for DIYElectricskateboard.com!


#12

@torqueboards All parts arrived (plus extra!) and checked. Looking good. :sunglasses:

Showed him the winning remote & he liked it. Hopefully I can dial in the settings for it to work well as I hear it can be a bit iffy without using a VESC.

Anyone care to weight in on weather I should mount the motor heel-side or toe-side? As I understand it, heel-side is the way to go but I ride my Carbon AT goofy and the toe-side motor feels fine to me. Thoughts?


#13

Ok, so what do you do when you’ve finished stripping the head on the motor mount bolt & it’s still loose? Epoxy? Buy another $95 AUD mount?


#14

Are you talking about the mount to the truck that’s loose? Go to Ace Hardware and replace it with a better bolt. Or did you mean you stripped the threads to the mount also?


#15

Yeah the clamping bolt to tighten the mount to the truck. The hex head stripped out before the mount tightened. How would I get this back out? (edit) More importantly, if I do get it out, how do I get the new one to clamp down before; the truck bends, the ruck rips off the board, the tool bends / rounds off?


#16

You can change to a better hex bit, that sometimes work. You can use an impact driver or drill with the right bit to get a bit more torque on it. Make sure you heat the bolt up if you got locktite. My sure way is to cut a slot through it and get a flathead to grip. This is a big bolt though. If all else fails, get a bolt extractor with a similar size head and get it to fit, doubt you need to go this far.

Did you use the heat shrink to get the mount a bit more grip? I even added some epoxy to my mount, it ain’t going anywhere.


#17

No on the heatshrink, but that’s a good idea. Should fill the gap nicely. The head is counter sunk on one side so might need to get an extractor.


#18

I thought I could forgo my heat shrink too, I was wrong and had to replace also. Good thing a new hex bit got it out. There’re other methods out there to get it out, but these have worked for me in the past.


#19

I think I have another hex bit to try in my drill kit. I’ll try backing it out once the sun comes up, add a flathead slot and heatshrink the truck.


#20

The other bit was able to undo it 1/100th of a turn before it rounded out again. It was enough to slide it off the hanger at least. Added heat shrink, found an old screw extractor but my cheap/blunt drill bits don’t even make a dent in the bolt.


Might just give up (for now) and buy another wheel set for the next build, swipe the hanger clamp from that one and just shift the problem down the queue till I can/feel like dealing with it. Still waiting on an XT-90S anyway and the guys in no rush to get it.