More progress, started working on the enclosure, with room to spare it will be 12mm thick (or thin), since it will be 3D printed I will print flat and use the fasteners to adjust to the board, the camber is 6mm lower on the center
In my previous board I made a grid and measured each point height with a dial to build the 3D model so the enclosure could match ir perfectly, but it was too much work and not perfectly unless you do a crazy amount of points, I think I did 150 points and was not nearly enought
Since that I started playing with photogrammetry and tried it on a old deck, the results speak for themselves
So that is how I am going to do in this build. But there is a complication, since I will make the enclosure flat I would have to flatten the 3d scan, no idea how to that with a mesh, if it was a solid it would be easy
The solution? flatten it with two clamps before scanning
Unfortunately the lightning conditions were far from ideal and I will wait for a bteer day to take the pictures for the scanning, it takes roughly 10 hours of processing on my PC, so better do right the first time
Also I ditched the idea of running the wires inside the deck since there is little clearance, and I will probably have to round over the tail to clear the motor and pulleys
Enclosure model ready, just need to split it and print (which involves reassembling part of my printer that needed some maintenance)
After taking a few measurements I realized that the curvature of deck was simple enough to be approximated by a simple cylinder section.
The enclosure is 17mm thick and the highest point, wish to make it thinner, but the JST connectors on top of the VESC 6 made it impossible, if I routed flat the bottom of the compartment I could shave of 3mm, not sure if it’s worth, we will see when I enlarge the hole
Details of the motor and rear light wire passage, just realized that I forgot the place for the front light wires
Power button and charge port holes
There will be a foam gasket all around to be waterproof, the wire entrance will use a glue lined heat shrink plus silicone
I don’t think those decks don’t have 3mm to spare to remove if you’re talking about more depth in the enclosure. You might find yourself appearing out of the top sheet!
First section printed, the curvature is almost perfect, good enough considering the foam gasket
But my printer decided to make things complicated, first this black abs wasn’t sticking enough to the bed with the liquid adhesive that I’ve been using for more than a year without problems, so I reverted back to Scotch stick glue and the did it
But the print quality is really bad, will test a few things tomorrow, since I will sand, prime and paint it’s not a big deal
the image upload isn’t working, will post it later
Have you considered switching to PETG from ABS? I assume layer adhesion will play a big deal when it comes to how it looks like you are going to print it (flat upside down?). I’ve always had hit and miss layer adhesion (though sometimes really good) with ABS, but never had any issues with PETG. Layer adhesion with PETG is insane, it will just crack anywhere if it does at all and never along the layer lines. Also, there’s rarely any warping off the bed so you can print as large as you want and not have to worry about things popping free normally, unlike ABS. Prints also come out pretty damn good quality, similar enough to PLA, but with a bit more flexibility, and tons of strength like just like ABS. All of my pneumatic hubs and wheel pulleys are printed out of PETG and they have been holding up flawlessly for hundreds of miles so far.
Then again, with ABS you have acetone smoothing and acetone welding that may come in handy with this project.
Works really well, but a problem I had is that the deck is too reflexive, you need a really diffuse light to avoid any reflection otherwise it can’t match features since they don’t exist in all the photos
I really like 3d scanning idea. I have used Agisoft’s photoscan before with great success. Might try it again. If it is a simple deck you can get away with measurements. Measurements along curve and measurements in straight line will perfectly define a concave board. you just have to print a small section to make sure.
Sorry that I am going a bit off topic, but I can’t stop PETG from sticking to my nozzle and creating a mess in the process. What printer, filament, slicer and general setting are you using?
I am using this cheap one from amazon.
Printer: Ender 3
Slicer: Cura 3.4.1
Temp: 240/70.
Retraction: 6mm + 50mm/sec
speed: 30mm/sec
Nozzle: 0.4
Layer height: 0.2
Flow: 94%
Coasting: on
My benchy in PETG prints like this. The blue one is in PLA.
@PXSS that was my idea, cover it with something patterned and matte, but as @mishrasubhransu the curvature is simples enough to measure by hand
If don’t have a lot of RAM (16gb+) you need to limit the number of points or it will fail, took me a while to figure out what hell was going on. With 8gb the maximum I could use was 100k points
Also helps a lot to have a powerful GPU since it’s CUDA optimized, but you need to have the latest drivers, it kept failing and no helpful error message to point at the driver
@mishrasubhransu there are a few temperature test print on thingverse that you could use, but by the looks of it it’s indeed too hot, also, your retraction is too big, once you go past 3~4mm and this mess keep happening you know the problem is elsewhere
New grip tape and some Venon 93a bushings to try board side, really like the looks of the grip, the previous one I used was a little bit rougher, but it’s a pain to cut since the adhesive is a stick goo
