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The Stage | Hummie Deck | Gummies | 6.5" Trampa Treads | Geared and DD | Dual VESC 6 | Dual 5055 | 10S5P | 3D Print


#101

If anyone want here is the enclosure


#102

After a few hours of sanding, now waiting for the filler in some defects to dry


#103

Done a few layers of paint, will sand again and do another few layers


#104

Damn are you gonna put something that pretty on the bottom of a filthy skateboard!?!

Beauuutiful.


#105

Hopefully it will stay that way, but we know that it won’t


#106

Well done, that’s a beauty in one piece :heart_eyes:
Don’t scratch it :laughing:

Regarding the deck, the remaining material seems enough but did you test it already? It reminds me of last year when I pressed my first and last DIY deck (Bustin clone). I also removed wood for electronics. After about 1 week work I’ve mounted trucks and stepped on it just for testing… well it instantly cracked :roll_eyes:


#107

Thanks rich, will try for sure, the enclosure for the last board lasted a week without scratches, lets see if I beat it

I think I will be ok, it was just 5mm each side, I should’ve tested the flex before routing to see if it changed

First wheel is assembled, perfect aligned, much easier than any long board wheel to get it true. that being said this mounting solution is not final, I don’t know if it will be to mount the Urban Treads with 75 psi this way, but the space is really limited, I had to leave out some section of the pulley so I can hold the nuts with pliers

My plan is to find some steel standoffs and use them so secure everything with screws from booth sides, this way the wheel integrity is completely independent from the pulley mounting, but that will be for after I get it running


#108

hahaha I had the same… :laughing:

helps me a little bit I’m not the only one who faced this.

keep up the good work :+1:


#109

Just bought these spacers, the stainless steel ones were too expensive


#110

After last round of wet sanding, unfortunately it’s been raining for the last few days, so painting the final coat will have to wait

After that is add the led’s and cover with them with resin, them take apart my current build and assemble everything


#111

Test fit, but that insert got to be kidding me, I think I will enlarge all holes to 5mm and hope that it will fit, or take it out and put more to the side and fill the gap with epóxi, any suggestions?


#112

Dude!!!
Thanks for the meshroom tip!
I can make perfect enclosures now that I modeled the surface of the deck. I’ll send you pics once I make my next enclosure.


Take out the insert. Fill with epoxy. Redrill in correct position. Be careful not to split the deck surface when taking out the insert. When filling witj epoxy use a syringe or something to help you get to the very bottom of the hole, use vaseline and kapton tape on surfaces where you don’t want the epoxy to stick. Remove any spots after 45mins to 2hours of curing (depending on the epoxy you used, 45mins for 5min epoxy and 2 hours for 3min epoxy). Hot bot to get it to cure faster afterwards. Match drill your hole or mark it with a punch before drilling :slight_smile:


#113

Nice, if in the future I make a build with a more complex deck I will try again

Do you have pics of the meshroom result?

Thanks for the tip with the inserts, I will probably have to drill with a large bit to destroy the insert completely, they are super glued in place and the brass is really soft, so no way can I put the needed torque in it to break apart


#114

Show me a picture.
You can always soak the superglue in acetone to get it to break down. Works great on clothes too!!! I’d be careful as I don’t know what it would do to the deck’s laminating resin…


Here are some pictures from meshroom and meshlab.

The meshroom results included a big portion of my kitchen so I removed those using Meshlab. I also simplified the surface as it originally had over a 500,000 faces. I need to try Blender for this, I’ve read it’s a lot better at simplifying than meshlab.


#115

Looks great, I need to learn more how to work with meshes, ideally I would like to cut it on the deck outline, import to Solidworks as a surface and them thicken it.

Or somehow do a full 360° scan suspending the deck

Insert repaired, drilled it out and filled the hole with epoxi, also enlarged the enclosure holes to 5 mm since some screws needed more clearance to enter smoothly


#116

Today was teste fit say, I can only say f***

I’m all ears for suggestions, will think for a few day before doing something irreversible

The problems:
-the hanger colides with the deck
-the motor collided with the deck when turning
-the motor collides with the deck when turning
-the mount will collide with the shape when I fix the other problems

I think the obvious way to solve all is to make a cut to keep the baseplate level with the deck, cutting 5mm into it and will make the board 5mm taller


#117

The obvious solution is to top mount lol.

E: Did you make your own mounts?
Why not just extend them so that the motors sit further out?


#118

Yeah, that’s one, but with 125mm and 165mm wheels it would be too tall

Yeah custom made, I rather avoid that, I expended a lot in them already, first to make and second to modify them to fit the TB trucks


#119

Honestly routing out 5mm into the deck would be the most elegant solution. I’d add in a silicone pad to soften the ride too while you’re at it.


#120

Good ideia, but, changing form my current deck that don’t have any flex and I stand right on top of the truck, it will be a big improvement without it