That filament was very weird. I had done all kinds of calibration test but didn’t help. It would ooze at 240 and cause extruder motor to miss steps at 230. Also, stuck to the nozzle very easily. Yeah, the retraction was too high.
Got a new PETG filaments (transparent one) and it prints as good as PLA. The temp required is 230-250 so has high temp tolerance.
Nice, sometimes a bad filament ruins everything, another thing is that yours may have absorbed a lot of water, a few hours in the oven at really low temperature should dry it
Now my printer is completely enclosed, should print the enclosures much better, testing to see how hot if gets
Almost there, but the corners still lifted, I will add some anchors on the next segment to try to hold them down, unfortunately I’m using all my bed, so no brim is possible
Questions
I would suggest to
Sure,
1 - ABS MG35
2- I’m using a spray called Abond that’s very common arround here and it’s the thing that adhere the most so far
3- 110C, I will bump to 115 or 120, in open air my bed don’t have enough power to keep, but now in the enclosure shouldn’t be a problem
1 I did, at least one hour before printed, but the first layer on a large part like this takes so long that the enclosure has plenty of time to heat
2 I will have to manually add in CAD but will try tomorrow, thanks. The problem is that the design of this clone is so good that you can’t use all the 200mm or the bottom of the y carriage colides with the frame, I’m limited to 165mm in y direction
But everything turned out good, just the very corners lifted and the interlocking fits just perfect, a little too loose, currently there is a 0.4mm gap between parts, will reduce that to 0.3 for the remaining sections
Yeah, it doesn’t seem bad at all. So what are you going to do about water entering the enclosure during flexing?
BTW, the best stuff to stick ABS to glass is abs slurry. That’s basically abs mixed in acetone. When it dries it leaves behind a thin sheet of ABS that the filament absolutely sticks to. I guess you were talking about this stuff?
I guess it must be the same composition as the one I use, what I love about it is that as soon as the bed cools down the part just pop off, sometimes it even fly of the print bed due to the shirinking (https://www.loja3dxfilamentos.com/adesivo-liquido-15ml-abond-impressora-3d-abs-pla-143880216xJM)
I tired ABS slury in the past and it didn’t work as well, also this MG35 ABS is not that soluble in acetone as most ABS’s, I have to use MEK that’s a little bit stronger, also, that’s what I use to cold weld one piece to another, you will damage the part before rupturing the junction, a lot stronger than any glue since you are just fusing the material, off course there is a lot of sanding, priming and painting until the enclosure is ready and really smooth
This is my plan for the brim, what do you think? 3 layers high
Half-Noobie here!
Why do people use two ESC’s instead of one, and what is the difference between VESC 6 and VESC 4? i assume VESC 6 is newer?
You need a VESC for each motor, or you can use some versions that support two motors, they are basically two vesc on the same board, I don’t like because if one of them goes bad you loose both
The 4 as the first VESC released a few years ago, it works fine if you are buying from a reputable seller
The 6 as your said is newer and has a lot of improvements, it can run FOC much more reliable (FOC makes the motor practically inaudible) and can support higher current without overheating
The confusion starts when you consider all variations that there is, for example, the FOCBOX is based on the 4.12, but can support much higher currents without overheating and also works perfectly fine on FOC due to some upgrades
The diferente in price is huge, and you get what you pay, I bought the VESC 6 from Trampa that is currently the only oficial source (but anyone can make a VESC since it’s open source) and is pretty high quality and I hope it lasts many years through various builds
Hope to not make you more confused than before
Looks good. Hope that works. But usually print lifts off at sharp corner due to stress concentration and sharp temperature gradient. So, if it were me, I would make them round.
@Pedrodemio, made an edit.
I checked it out and… DAMN thats expensive!!
You answered some questions…and made more 
so ill just ask;
How are both VESC connected to work simultaneously? also
What are some of the most important upgrades over the VESC v4.12?
What is the best bang for your buck in your opinion?
Lastly, thanks so much for making things clearer! mostly
Please don’t think that I am trying to be rude to you, but just wanted you to know that it is suitable to ask VESC related questions in VESC related threads. “How do I find those threads”, you ask? Just search “VESC” using that magnifying glass at the top right corner. Plus you’ll get a lot more information than what someone can answer you in one post.
I thank you for that, ill go look for more information.
@mishrasubhransu makes sense, will change them to round and print
@iTzDiego you use the CAN port so they can talk with each other and do a lot of cool stuff like traction control, program both of them using a Bluetooth module and etc
If you haven’t read yet check this
https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/wiki-a-beginner-guide-to-diy-an-esk8/46844
There is a lot of information spread out on the forum, my main recommendation before buying anything is read, read and read so you don’t throw money away
When you have a good idea how everything goes together make a build tread that everyone will help to figure out the details
Good luck
Everything was going fine until the nozzle clogged mid print, switched to my 0.6mm one to print a lot faster
Also will have to redo the PID tuning of the extruder, since adding the enclosure the hot end temperature is pretty unstable
Almost completely success, the tabs didn’t help with anything, but the warp is minimal and can be corrected later, with 0.6mm nozzle it went from 5:40h to 3:20h print time
Oh wow, that’s quite a bit of time saving. I should try higher dia nozzle. I have .4, .6, .8 and 1.0. I should do some research on the part strength and nozzle size.
BTW, I also just completed 3 modules of my segmented enclosure. With .4mm nozzle and part standing, it takes me 13 hours for a print. Plus PETG likes it slow 50mm/sec
Nice, definitely try the bigger nozzle, 1mm is as high I would go with 1.75 filament or you don’t get enough pressure to have a smooth extrusion
The most important thing is to limit the volumetric flow, the E3D V6 can get to 10mm^3/s, só it don’t even make sense for me to go higher nozzle size since even configuring infill and solid infill to 80mm/s, the maximum I get is 60mm/s to respect the volumetric limit
Strange the 13h for each piece, even at 50mm/s shouldn’t take that long
From what I’ve reads the parts strength go up with nozzle size if you keep the layer height constant since each string gets more squished and has a larger surface area touching the previous layer
Do you have a link for this enclosure? Just for me to see what time it would take here
Prints done, now onto gluing, sanding, priming and painting
