First changed the truck fixture so there is a part of it that mates with the lase cut steel plate to guarantee a better alignment
Second, now the wheel adapter is one piece, this way the steel spacer can be smaller and lighter, but the main purpose is so I can easily adjust how much compression there is in the sealing o-ring
The sealing works likes this. when you tighten the wheel it pushes the gear assembly, that pushes the bearing and compress the o-ring so no oil can leak when the board is running or when it is sideways, I highlighted it in the third photo
And we have oil, just wanted to have an idea how much I have to put in. At this level it’s 4,5 ml, it should be enough, the problem with this design is there’s not much empty space around the gears, so the oil level will change a lot when it gets spread out and may run into oil starvation on the teeth itself, ideally you want from one to three teeth height oil level measuring from the bottom of the gear
The plan is to gradually add oil and see how much power is lost to it and go with the sweet spot
Also gears ordered, should be here in a month or so (but probably way more)
Printed a pulley to see if it fits, and it does perfectly
But I messed up a setting it the printer and took half an hour with a hammer and a screw driver to remove the supports that were too close to the print itself, also a few drops of blood by missing and hitting my hand
Hopefully I can tell this weekend, they are still sitting in my desk, I ordered the bearings today, since they are not a common size it takes a few days
Still need to have some custom spacers made to go inside the wheel, but can test without them, and without motors
But my hope for them is to dampen quite a bit more than the kegels, some streets are unridable due to vibration, also go through cracks that currently I have to stop to
Edit: just saw the hand comment
Actually was the pulley that cut my finger, the edges of the 3D printed parts can be quite sharp, now I have a HTD 5M scar!
Oh lol my mistake I hadn’t realized the need for spacers as well. good thing you brought it up. any reason why they need to be custom made? aren’t those 8/10mm spacers or is it due to the spacer length as the hubs are longer?
let me get back to you on that. I’m on @kug3lis fatboy hubs so I’m not sure of the exact dimensions for how long I’ll need the spacers to be. I’ll try fitting the hubs onto an existing truck I’ve got at home later and will get back to you!
Since I had to take my mounts apart to modify, took the chance to clean the motors and change the bearings, lot of dirt inside and all bearings were dry
What a challenge to take this things apart, one of the pulley formed a wedge with the key, the harder I tried to take it out the worse it got, also the motor where this happened one of the can bolts have a broken head, so it wasn’t possible to take the axle out and remove the pulley from the other side
But the worse is to take out the small bearings of these 5055 motors, no way to do that without damaging them, and the inner track got stuck in booth motors, only patience and a dremel to cut them in half solved
Was researching about using v-rings instead of the axial seal, unfortunately for use with oil it wouldn’t work without complicating the design a lot since the lip has to be on the oil side
Also is important to seal against dirt getting in since I plan to take this board on the mud and rain and whatever, that would mean a double sealing is needed, making the drive bulkier
The great thing about them is minimal drag, but if that’s become a problem I will see if I can find the PTFE based radial seal
I’ve had problems changing out my bearings on my drone motors. What I found to work the best was to throw them in the freezer for a hour or two and then pull them out and use a bearing puller to get them out. If that doesn’t work. Use your soldering iron and heat up the bearings and then try that. You may need to repeat both steps but eventually they will work themselves out. Just my 2 cents worth.
First version of the main screen of the remote, shows speed, distance on this ride, battery level on the symbol and percentage, connection status, credits to @solidgeek for the symbol, wheel size and remote battery level