Can you flip it, nut on top of deck, screw on bottom?
Or you could maybe drill new holes in the baseplate and deck, a bit further in?
1 Like
torque motor mounts are adjustable to you can tilt the motors to optimal angle, allows for changes in future also.
I can flip, but it wouldn’t look great, the baseplate have a inner hole, but them the hanger touches the bolt, either way I will need to make the nut countersunk into the deck, I’m kind afraid of that, but since I will still keep the two carbon fiber layers it should hold
That’s the good side of adjustable mounts, but I don’t give up the rigidity and simplicity of the fixed ones
This is what I did so far
Also opened my motors to add another temperature sensor since apparently they are wired in a way that can’t work with any VESC, go figure
A few more comments on them:
- Inner bearings are also rubber sealed
- There is a lot of oil at the bottom of the bell, perfect for building up goo inside, don’t know why, shouldn’t be from the bearings due to the seal
- this one I really don’t like, the windings are not coated in resin, only the top portion where the sensor PCB resides
1 Like
One motor sleeved and installed, waiting for more sleeve to arrive
A thing I didn’t like about this motor is that the circlip is flush with the surface, meaning you have to grind your mount a little bit or it will scrap and make annoying sounds, also the groove for it is too small diameter and it stays loose rattling, a few drops of retaining fluid fixed the issue
3 Likes
Solved, a little afraid that there is too little material left, let’s see what happens
And now I have sleeves for the next 10 builds
3 Likes
nice play!
So they fit now ?!
Perfectly, there still a chance that the motor may hit the deck, in that case I will just sand a bit more
1 Like
@Pedrodemio it’s a little offtopic but do you happen to know how to rewind the Racerstar motors (you did use them at some point didn’t you)? I have the 200kv version and would like to rewind them to a lower kv because of the larger diameter with pneumatics.
I used the torqueboards 5055
I’ve never done it myself, but the easiest way would be to change the winding termination from delta to wye, the Kv will lower by a factor of 1.73, there is a few guides on RC forums, and there you will also find a lot of info about rewinding, there are a few a spreadsheets around that will give you how many turns to do to arrive in your desired Kv if you manage to unwind and count the current turns
Cheers and good luck, it is a lot of work
Ah my bad - I thought you had used the racerstar ones. The retermination itself is relatively easy but I can’t open the can properly which is why I asked.
But I bet they are almost identical
What do you mean? you can’t get to the end of the windings to change?
yeah exactly - I wanted to get to the wire endings but with the racerstars it doesn’t work like on SK3s where you can just screw the top off. So I thought I’d ask someone who opened his - maybe @Riako can help out?
I will look into that, there is a old 6335 230Kv that I am planing to change to do that to lower the Kv, I may have to take the entire stator out
Motor install almost done, just the sensor connector left, the thing is that doing everything non modular and as tight as possible is that what should’ve taken an hour ended being a week long task
What had me scratching my head in the end is that the motors had the logo mirrored, but I had installed in such a way that it would be upside down, them the next time I looked they were installed correct, well, they have two logos on the can, one in each way 
8 Likes
About to go to the first test, just charging up a bit, but things look promising, the old motors had 38 miliohms of resistance, the new ones is 18 miliohms, only there I should have 4 times less heating, apart to the fact that is 35 °C ambient it should keep cool
7 Likes
Did the KV change?
1 Like
Looks good! It’ll be really interesting to know your Wh per km with those Gummies.
1 Like
Good looking build my friend. yeah come back with some stats 
Also, use those urban treads man. Life changing 
1 Like
@mishrasubhransu yep, the same, both 190Kv
@Bataleon with the old motors 11.5Wh/km, will test with the new ones
@mutantbass as soon as I install the new battery will try them
Ok, just wow, it’s a new board, definitely the 5055 motors were saturating badly even in low currents
I didn’t change anything, just did the detection, same current, it’s way stronger across all speeds
Heat wise it’s looking good, as said it’s was 35°C here. Riding in tall grass without going over 60°C for as long as I want, with the old ones 100m it would reach 95°C and cut all power
Overall the board inspire way more confidence, the only problem is that now I’m experiencing the wheel lock at low speeds, probably will try @Deodand fix
Consumption is 11.5 Wh/km, but this was riding really hard, with grass and all, só riding normally I think will be better
2 Likes
Nice build.
What connectors are this that you’re using for the phase wires? It looks like xt connector but w three terminals?
1 Like