Do you think you could maybe add a or some layer of fiber glass or carbon with epoxy as skin on enclosure ?
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Good idea, I will see if I have the room next time I open it, maybe just on the 3D printed part joints will be enought
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I would do what @riako says, print some kind of (plugs)* for the bolt holes, wrap them in plastic so that the epoxy does not bond to them. That plus a simple clothe-vacuum bag should give you decent draping. Glassfiber is usually quite cheap too.
*(after curing dremel/cut the plugs off, easy if you use just 1/2 layers of fabric)
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Thanks for the tips, will see what can be done, I think I can get some scraps of carbon fiber for free with some friends
Not super relevant but still related to 3D printed enclosures. I am thinking of making the top of the enclosure like this to improve flex. What do you all think?
It could work, but I don’t think its necessary on most decks, only if it’s super flexy
you could do that only in some parts
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The person that made standard that the bell should be fixed to the axle using flat spots deserves to suffer the eternal torment of Skatan in the deepest depths of hell
Was in the middle of the woods with no tools or phone, a storm on the way and one motor starts to spin on the axle, the damn screws got loose again, this time its was the thread that was destroyed, worse is that the shaft started to go out and miss-align the belt and touch the pulley cover
Luckily i was able to pull the bell off and push the way home, I don’t know what would happen to the VESC in I applied throttle without the magnets on the motors
The 6355’s are on the way from torqueboards, if I run again in that kind of issue I will take everything apart and modify it to have a key between the shaft and the bell
For the 5055, I have some future plans for them and may do the key thing on at least do what I did in a old 6355, enlarge the holes to fit m4 screws
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that and green axle loctite, even if its messy 
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Green already in place, but I doubt it will hold with the semi stripped threads
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I widened my grub screw holes to M4, but make sute to do it clean, mine are not holding really well
Will try, there is not much margin of error since the can walk is really thin
If it holds for a ride today I’m happy, the new motors should be here this week
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Yes, this (m4), plus loctite should be good, plus try to change the screw to pass from (I don’t remember but) 1.5 or 2mm tool with a grub screw, to 3mm tool with a head screw, you could apply a lot more force.
the key way for the bell sound super strong !
Will look into it, thanks, it should help since the bell aluminum is soft
Took it for a quick spin before the rain and it held up so far
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Finally did the range test, 35.5 km
My last board with the same config except wheel and deck did 44.4 km, but keep in mind the battery was new, this one 9 Wh/km, the old 7,41 Wh/km
Both limited to 25 km/h, today was little windy so that could have influenced a bit
I want do do a lot of tests to see what happens, mainly compare the 5055 motors with the new 6355, we see a lot of discussion here but I don’t remember anyone doing it scientifically’ish, same route, limited to same top speed, full throttle as much as possible and same current settings
Also I will probably put the kegels on this build for a run
And all tests will be done at two limited speeds of 25 km/h and 35 km/h to see how a higher power influence
I have a feeling that in my case the 6355 may be more efficient due to more cooper, I will do the math latter, but keeping 2 400g motors at an average of 70°C for a 95 minutes is not an insignificant amount of energy, if the new ones manage to run way closer to ambiente temperature it may improve things
This board:
Old board:
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What’s your battery config? According to the data above you are getting about 10wh/km?
10S3P of NCR18650GA, about 9Wh/km, but keep in mind that this is at 25 km/h top speed, I never ride like that, only did so I could compare to the old build, tomorrow if the weather allows I will do the same run at the normal speed, and them do the same with the 6355
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New motors are in
Way better design and construction than the ones a bought 3 years ago
-rubber sealed outer bearing, hopefully the others are too -10mm axle stepped to 8mm -stator closer to the end of the can, less space wasted -wire exits hole properly sized, the older design was all crammed and the wires would hub on the bell -can holes way smaller, my old one I had to cover them with duct tape to avoid rocks getting in all the time -can is now held with screws
Overall really solid construction, the looks are also way better than the old version
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And another package
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Range test at 35km/h limit done, 27.6 km @ 11.4 Wh/km
Now I need to make an adapter, put on the new motors and do both tests again
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This is how I feel at the moment
And my plan in case that happened will not work, the only solution I see is make a hole for the nut and make it flush with the deck, and probably sand a bit of the rear of the it
Any suggestions are welcome
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