The Sarlacc | Landyachtz Evo with Psychotiller Enclosure | Dual TB 6355 190kv | 12s4p Akhlut PCBs 30Qs |Surfrodz RKP/Psychotiller Mounts| DieBieBMS | Psycotiller Enclosure

be0792d5-423d-4cfe-a9bc-147f9dfe2ae0 lookey what just showed up!

@psychotiller, you are a master my friend, these are gorgeous.

6 Likes

newwheelsnewwheels2 Getting everything mounted up. Just ordered some belts.

Also got all my 3d printed parts for my NESE done finally! I’ll have to tweak the DieBieMS case a bit, I’m running out of room in my enclosure!

I’m also 3 layers into the deck, doing the 4th and 5th tonight! So far, everything looks like its working well in the new vacuum bag, I’ll post some pictures of that tonight!

4 Likes

Would like to see how you layout and put your nese modules together with the bms as well!

I just printed the new case of the BMS last night, I’ll mock up the mount tonight…it looks like the very last NESE case will have to go in at a slight angle but I’m not 100% sure yet.

My first mock up was with bad prints so its still unknown! But I’ll get it to fit someway or another!

1 Like

Is it better to use NESE battery packs over some cheap battery holders from Aliexpress, amazon etc…?

What battery holders are you talking about? The N.E.S.E is way more than just a battery holder. You have to buy the hardware from @agniusm. His kit is the full connection set up for a battery. It has the series tabs that go into the 3dprinted enclosures and connect outside of them in parrallel. They are rated to 200amp and can withstand tons of abuse.

The only problem is that they take up alot more space than if you just spot welded your pack together. But for me, I don’t trust my spot welding skills so thats why i went this route.

Also, if one cell goes bad, you can easily remove it and replace it with his option.

http://18650.lt/

2 Likes

I’m also debating on upgrading from the 6355 to a dual 6374 since I have the surfrodz now.

Any opinions on good 6374s?

I’m planning either a the TB218 or maytech 6374 170kv. Not sure if the 170kv would get that much hotter than the 190kv at 12s yet so I’m undecided still

I’ve been debating with going with the TB 6374s but now that i can use that size, i feel like there are more options open for me!

I think I want to stick with 190kv unless someone can convince me otherwise.

1 Like

After getting everything printed I threw it all into my enclosure to see how much space I’d have. Short answer…not enough.

I’m going to cut the tabs off of the foxbox mounting plate and see if it give it enough wiggle room the fit down in there. Tonight I’m going to start laying some thick wire in between each box to make sure that I have enough for the cases and the cabling that is going in between everything.

IMG_5079! I was right on the money with the amount of filament I had!!! IMG_5081

Quick shot of the full enclosure, I have enough room on the sides of the NESE cases to run cabling, its just up by the focboxes where its tight!! Excuse the horrible printing on that BMS case, forgot to turn my fan on for that section! IMG_5077

3 Likes

What enclosure is that? it looks different from the one you were working on initially with the fiberglass? It looks like an Altar wedge and very similar to what I’ve got planned as well lol

Edit: read the title again and it said @psychotiller enclosure lol so I’m likely right with the altar wedge? I’ve got the same setup planned with nese modules for the 2s4p but I don’t have any concrete plans with the diebie bms so fitting the vescs in there shouldn’t be as tricky? lol

Would you happen to know the depth of the enclosure from the shallower non-recessed sides?

Yea, I was originally going to use my tan tien but it was way to flexy, so my fiberglass one is sitting on a shelf, maybe I’ll use it for something else.

Its the enclosure for the shuggah deck, I’m making my own deck thats just a tad bit wider and longer than the shuggah. This build has changed like 40 different times while building and sourcing parts!

I can measure it up when I get home from work today!

1 Like

Thanks alot! I’m really trying to measure everything up but yeah I think we’re bith referring to the same enclosure. I’m going with a hummie deck that will let me double stack to go 8p but no way Im doing that now lol which is why I wanted to know the depth of both the middle recessed portion and the non-recess so I can measure how much headroom is available if I do decide to double stack later.

1 Like

I’ll bust my calipers out and take some pictures tonight, unless @psychotiller already has some on hand!

1 Like

He probably does but I just get hyped about my first build and constantly thinking about it has me back to planning lol

He’s helping me plan out the measurements with the enclosure along with a some other things.

Would appreciate the measurements! I can’t get nese modules shipped to psychotiller probably cause I’m not based in the US so I gotta measure everything down especially the modules to get everything right :smile:

1 Like

No problem man! This is my first build as well so its been a long journey of learning everything I need to know so I’m not building something thats going to just blow up under me! Which is why i went with the nese packs.

I’m going to work on my spot welding skills, I have some older 18650s that I’ll mess around with. I plan on doing a Jet Spud build after this one, the NESE really won’t fit there!

As soon as I get home I’ll take the measurements for ya!

1 Like

Digging your build. Where did you get the foam from and how well does it hold up to the vacuum pump pressure?

I got it from home depot, its just basic insulation foam. The one thing I learned, wrap the foam in packing tape after you get your form made…my current one doesn’t have the tape wrap and the breather mesh is creating imprints.

Main reason I say do this, if you want to use the mold multiple times its a good idea. If you are one and done with the mold, don’t worry about it. I used the 3m spray adhesive and it worked fine, some other glues actually eat through the foam!

Is it the foamular 150?

1 Like

yep! I bought one of the big sheets and just cut it down. It has precut “snap off” points that are easy to use but I found that my shapes/sizes intersected with these so yet another reason I covered everything with packing tape.

Also another thing I found, with having the drop down and the flat tub concave bottom, the wood warped a bit where the wheel bite would be. I think I was trying to force too many complex curves.

My latest mold is wider than the wood is and slightly sloped on the sides so the wood has more of a bed the sit on so its not under as much force in those sections. I got delamination the other way, I’m 5 layers in on this new mold and everything looks super strong.

1 Like