The Putting-My-Kids-On-A-Bread-And-Water-DIET-Build | 97mm ABECs | Single drive | 10s4p | Etcetera!

Things that make you happy… 40x30q

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@sl33py Just got the new bushings, SHR from Venom. 97,5a on rear and 93a on front. I weigh around 78-79 kg. What a difference! I now run the trucks pretty loose which allows for great carving, still pretty stable but smooth and quick response from the board. The stock bushings I had to overtighten (until back bushing ripped) cause I was scared of getting wheelbite. Board was not very stable, wobbly and pretty unresponsive. Love it now. Wow! Not even close to getting wheelbite with wedge risers on both trucks. (With stock bushings I could get rear wheel bite if forcing down the board standing on one/two inner wheels with full lean.)

Thanks for the tip!

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AWESOME! Glad that helped get you sorted.

Quality bushings - correct for your weight - they can make a HUGE difference - glad that is helping you.

Love the high/super high/ultra etc. rebound bushings. I also like to run the harder elim bushings board side and then a softer high rebound street side - kind of a dual rebound setup - definitely likes to pull back to center, but can setup super carvy still!

Anyone who has their bushings super tight/squashed should definitely try better quality and higher duro bushings!

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Kaeptnbalu spot welder up and working with my very DIYish welding pen. You like? :smile: Let’s weld some batteries!

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Although that will work fine… you really don’t need that much insulation. You could cut that block down to make it a bit more manageable to around 10mm surrounding the probes and you’ll be absolutely fine. :thumbsup:

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Thanks for the input @darkkevind, however, the copper rods were insulated already, so the wooden block is only to have them fixed at a good angle so that I would always get the same width on the welds. Also with this size I felt I could apply an even pressure when welding. Maybe it’s a bit big, but if works fine :wink:

Parallels welded with 1 layer of nickel and 1 to go. This is what the 10s4p pack with BMS will look like. Dimensions without series connections are 222x130x32mm.

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Preliminary mounting and testing! I believe battery pack came out pretty slim, considering it being a 10s4p with SuPower 60A BMS; 33x138x225mm.

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Been riding this board for a couple of days now and I’m in love. Maxed it today at 75% charge to 41km/h - 25.5 mph! What a feeling!! :heart_eyes:

Congrats on the board! Love the thought that you put into your build.

How do you like the motor? I’m thinking about trying a single motor belted drive, coming away from my dual hub motors so that I can ride with more urethane. I’ve been eyeing an sk3 192kv, but your sensored motor sounds like it has a lot of potential. How does it sound and how would you describe how powerful it is?

Thanks, and congrats again!

Thanks! This is the first and only esk8 I have ridden, so my board is my reference so to speak. However, to me the ride is really smooth with great torque and plenty of power going up hills. Didn’t climb any steeper hills yet, but so far I can accelerate uphill with good power.

No cogging when taking off from stand still. Runs pretty quiet especially at lower speeds, but even at higher speed it doesn’t get loud. Have only run FOCmode with sensors though, so don’t know how loud it gets running on BLDC.

Before riding it outside I tried BLDC sensored and experienced some minor cogging at stand still, but switching to FOC made a huge difference.

This motor is advertised as sealed, but that means the holes are a bit smaller, so it’s not really sealed I guess.

Doesn’t run hot, luke warm at most. So to me it’s been great, but so far I’ve only put 25ish km on it.

If you’re buying that motor from eskating.eu, make sure to get 2 sga8-circlips for the shaft, cause that wasn’t included, neither was a key for the keyway.

Excellent, thanks for the great write-up of the motor and for the tips on the circlips and key. This sounds like a motor I’ll definitely be looking at.