The Printa | 6374 192KV | 9s 5000mah | 3D Printed Mount

[Achmed20]

a few months ago i bought a 3d printer but kinda lacked a real project to put into good use. well, an e-skateboard should be one so i build one with pretty much everything printed except the the board ofc.

the complete Project took me like 4 wekks to complete but mainly because most of the ordered parts (mainly the VESC) took ages till it finaly arrived.

Part List:

• cheap longboard deck from amazon
• Caliber 2 Trucks 50°
• spoked 83mm wheels
• VESC
• Hobbyking cheap remote
• 3x Zippy 3s 5000mah
• Sk3 6374 192kv Brushless motor
• 9s BMS
• random parts like wires, xt90 connectors etc

Printed Parts

Electric Skateboard Motor Mount by achmed20

Electric skateboard - Battery indicator cover by achmed20

Electric Skateboard Battery Cover by achmed20

Parametric pulley - lots of tooth profiles by droftarts

36t Abec 11 v4 by mccloed

1. The Motor Mount so, everyone kidna knows 3D printed covers, but i went for a 3D printed motor mount as well and designed one. took a few itterations but i finaly got it working. finding the right angle and creating stable protective cover for the motor took the most time. my inexperience with Fusion360 didnt particulary help either

(Printed with PETG)

2. Battery and VESC Covers theoreticaly the easiest part, but yet aggain, i had no clue how to use Fusion360. my original design was way to low. i tried to make it as low profile as i possibly could but kinda forgot to add the thickness of the shell (4mm)

so after printing a part, i figured i had to increase the height (5mm) and shorten the angles

(still low profile enough)

(i should have taken a ruler when drilling those wholes. the vesc cover is anything but straight)

3. Battery Indicator last thing i needed was a mount for the battery indicator (http://www.ebay.de/itm/272572660673). since i needed a small raiser anyway. since i finaly had some experience with the softeware, this is what i came up with.

ToDo

• Add the BMS
• figure out a waqy to add more mah. i thought i had enough space for 10000mah but looks like i dont ^^
• add another mounting arm to the mount or make it even more ridged, because i figured out that i can actualy create a 2 wheel drive with one motor by using the “rotor” mount which was included with the motor.

General Info havent dont any long term tests yet so no realy idea on the range (should be arround 8-10km) but this thing has a topspeed somwhere arround the 40km/h. way to fast to be honest

i spent almost 750€. mostly because I was lacking tools, screws, wires and lots of other minor stuff which did add up quite alot. way more expesinve then i thought it would be …

PS: made a small video as well. i should have done a diary ort something but well, now its to late ^^

DIY Electric Longboard

[Achmed20]

looks like my mount needs more reinforcement or something other then PETG ^^ after my first real ride, this happend after 6.5km

other then that, im quite satisfied with the ride. 6.5km and having 65% battery left, seems ok to me. now i need to figure out how to reinforce that part. its probably enough to add some support on the other end which i allready have but removed because i thought it would be enough.

[Decdog]

What battery indicator did you use? Could you send a link?

[Achmed20]

yep! its this one! http://www.ebay.de/itm/272572660673?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Achmed20]

and update 3!

i changed the design of the mount a bit. extended the area where it boke before and added a another clamp to the other side of the truck to absorb more energy.

worked pretty well so far. i managed to drive arround 14.5 km (1.3 are missing in the log) and still have 45% battery left.

when back home i saw another crack, but i honestly was expecting one there anyway. should be rather easy to fix since i just have to make it thicker there and maybe experiment with the infill a bit.

[riva_00]

Love what you’re doing here keep it up, how are the teeth on the pulley holding out? Previous threads have said 16t or lower wear out kinda fast. Perhaps allowing for some m5/6 bolts to be put in would make it stronger without compromising on cost or easily-sourced parts?

[Achmed20]

cant say much for the small pulley because i pretty much have to reprint it every time i change the motor mount (sits on super tight so it usualy breaks when i try to pull it off), but the large one isnt showing any signs of wear so far.

printing the mount right now aggain with 100% infill. previously i had 60% honeycomb infill with 6x6x6 solid layers. pretty sure that not going to cut it because PETG usualy becomes way more brittle when beeing solid, but i’ll try it anyway.

[Achmed20]

Update 4

ok, so the new mount is finished printing and mounted. this time with 100% infill instead of the 60% i used before.

uppon further inspection of the broken part, i figured out that it only cracked the 6 outer layers i used, the infill and the other side is perfectly fine. which means that im probably on the right track with my 100% infill.

(crack outside)

(inside crackfree)

im updating the thingiverse page and add the support clamp there as well

[Achmed20]

Update 5

OK, the “right track” wasnt so rigth after all

PETG becomes way to brittle when solid. i think ill try less infill and less layers. not giving up yet ^^

[mmaner]

Have you thought about ABS? I haven’t printed motor mounts, but I have half a dozen ABS WHeel pulleys with 100KM on them, they show no wear at all.

[riva_00]

How many teeth on those wheel pulleys?

[mmaner]

Usually 36, but I’ve used 32 & 40 as well.

[Achmed20]

thought about ABS yes, but right now i still wanna try it with PETG. im going to try 2 other ideas i have and if both fail, i try ABS.

they pulleys and everything else hold up fine. but the motor is just to darn powerfull and rips the mount appart. i could solve that by just tuning it down, but that would kinda defeat the purpose.

increased the mountplate in width by 5mm now, not sure if i can fit the pulleyxy now but we’ll see

[TranxFu]

I think the wall strength on those are way too thin. I’ve had good results with 20-30% infill. 3D printing sorta reminds me of a bone structure. Relatively thick wall strength and inside is the spongy bone mass which resembles the infill. Try different kind of infill structure. Did you try annealing your part afterwards ? Would be interesting to see

[colin]

Have you considered printing in polycarbonate? I’m planning on printing everything in solid PC (pulleys, enclosure and motor mount) for my next build.

[riva_00]

Just an idea, but you could try a hollow 3dprint and fill with something like Epoxy

[Vaulter92]

How thick are the single layers you print? The thicker the layers the less bonds you need and hence more stability. The finish is not getting nicer but form follows​ function.

[Achmed20]

@TranxFu @Vaulter92 Wallstrengt is 6 layers at 0.3mm. pretty much the max you can have with a 0.4mm nozzle. no cooling to give it as much setteling time as possible.

Havent tried annealing yet. my last (and first) attempt to anneal PETG was pretty fubar since it compltely lost its form but i will probably try that aggain sooner or later.

the new print with the thicker mountplate and 50% infill is finished now. gonna mount it as test it today.

[Achmed20]

@colin isnt petg a polycarbonate? originlay i was aiming to print it with nylon, but the one i need is pretty much out of stock everywhere

[SimosMCmuffin]

I have a bit of different mounting solution for the caliber trucks with a 3D-printed parts.

It’s pretty durable even when printed with PLA, but they still develop cracks after some use, so I’m going to go for metal motor mounts in the future.

For more pics check out this Imgur album:

[Album] The current iteration of my electric longboard - Album on Imgur