Awesome, of course I want softer and higher, which sounds unlikely lol!!
good job!!
the nitrile is super sticky and goodā¦except what is stated as 80 duro seemed much harder for about ten minutes in the hands and has now settled at maybe 75 and then when it gets hot it drops all the way down to maybe 70 and I rolled a tire twice when I heated it up a lot. the good news is I ordered us all 85 and 90 duro in this stuff and 80 and 85 duro hydrogenated (high heat), for both motors. But Im more excited that Iāve tracked down some really good high heat, hot pour polyurethane Iām getting samples of and will pour that too and itās on the way. This stuff is top notch and although the nitrile is good I know it doesnt have the rebound of polyurethane and that equates to greater range on a charge and more durability and syched to be pouring that stuff.
@evoheyax beats motors up more than anyone Iāve encountered with his weight and extremely hilly long commute and after replacing all the bearings with full ceramics after he cooked the lube out of the steel, we found itās definitely nice to have it all slide fittings so we can get the bearings off and on without exotic tools and thatās what the new motors will be. With (2) two-pin spanner wrenches found on amazon weāll be able to access everything to replace bearings or windings or whatever.
the big motos should be here in about a week!!. they had trouble making magnets that are 70x3mm and they kept breaking
@hummie Do you have a link for a cheap spanner wrench that you like on Amazon? Iām not sure which one to get, but I need to open up one of my motors. The red Loctite I used on the axle threads let loose while I was riding and the wires got twisted and pulled out a little bit. One seems to still work fine and one just stutters now.
sorry to hear. especially sorry to hear because Iād rather use red loctite. Had you covered the threads and cranked it down? I use red now with no problem so far. Rather not use the crazy strong two-part high-heat epoxy because its too strong.
itās very likely fixable. Worse is if one of the wires is shorting to another through the center piece but thatās likley not whats happened and you just need to make a better connection again.
To get the older motors apart you need to press them apart. you also need the wrench. I dont have the details on what size pins you need on that wrench now as Iām at work, dont have a measuring tape handy, but youāll need an adjustable two-pin spanner or wrench and it has to have pins that are maybe 3mm max diameter. Measure the size of the holes on the threaded ring on the inside and thats what youll need to get into, but like I say those motors are also glued shut after you get that ring off and youāll need a press. I have one and you can bring it by and Iāll do it all. youāll likely need to resolder the lead to the winding though with a fine tip solder iron which I dont have.
1 Like
Thanks for the info. Ok try to get them apart, but I may end up having to bring them down to you. I just have no idea when. And Iām not sure why the loctite came undone, but the hubs were moneyed onto a Randall II truck, and maybe they didnāt have long enough axles or enough thread engagement or something. It sure looked like there was a lot of loctite still on the threads and axles, but Iāll try more next time.
Probably because theyāre aluminum and steel holds better.
Ive just been loctiting the steelā¦ The other glue I used to use I think we estimated at 200 foot pounds of torque to get them off. A motor I forget but maybe will do teens.
The wires though are thin and aluminum. Crappy. Read that fat wires a good heatsink. Next time theyāre supposed to be 12gauge copper. Iām liking a fat wire coming out and turning into a heatsink! U can get the same electrical resistance I thin in a copper sheet as a wire. If thatās true why not have thin sheeting at least. Thermally conductive insulator there. Thatās doable.
Just an update on my ducted cooling hack, while it did seem to work, it did collect and route debris into the motors along with extra cooling air. Got a little crunchy in there, so I scrapped the idea. Iāll try something else down the line that has the intake ducts at the nose, so it pulls clean air and ducts it back to the motors or escās.
Try keeping the same ducts but using thermal epoxy to gluea radially finned heatsink onto the cap. Youll block the holes but increase the heat transfer dissipation area significantly.
something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Round-Shaped-48mm-OD-24mm-ID-20mm-Height-LED-Light-Heat-Sinks-Cooling-Fin-/311006078437?hash=item48696825e5:g:IMIAAOSwnLdWrLkY
1 Like
Any websites or anything to purchase a dual motor truck setup?
if you want a set of the aluminum I still have some. theyāve shown to be good and no complaints about them mechanically. just paypal me 280$ and include your address and Iāll send you a set with a pair of paris v2 trucks and extra tires. includes shipping if your in the continental us. send to [email protected]
Any steel ones being made soon?
yea long ones on route
1 Like
Does this $280(Awesome price) include the newer tires or are these the last iteration?
the newer. and a pair of paris v2. the newer rubber could be either nitrile or the high heat āhot pourā polyurethane Iāll be trying soon too. Iāll have a bunch of different duro. this coming couple weeks things will be exciting with the new motors and different rubber showing. I only have a couple of the small motors left and want to get rid of them.
If we get them, do we need to use glue or something to attach them?
no they come with a pair of paris v2 trucks iāll mount them to.
I rather wait for the latest and greatest =) Jacobs was a let down =(
The Steel version?
I am still confused about the improvements. Better and replaceable bearings and less heat build up? Not sure when the regular ones will be made again.
i only have the aluminum now. i have to get a couple more of the regular smaller steel motors in the future because they already made them. the improvements going forward forgetting those few Iāll have to get are bigger motors obviously. almost 3x as big or long. both bearings are now big. and sealed not just shielded. and thereās two types of steel in the future, 1144 for the center shaft and 1018 for the rotor. what the bearings are sitting on is much stronger than a standard skate axle. and bigger copper multistrand silicone wires. it was going to be 100% magnet fill but they couldnt do it, itās hard to get 70mmx3mm magnets in there, so theyāre working on doing it the 80% fill as before. thatās been the hold-upā¦trying to get magnets in. itāll happen.
Iām going to leave it all tight slide fittings so you if you get (2) two-pin wrenches for maybe 20$ each you can open everything up and replace anything.
1 Like