I am abroad currently not able to insert the fix right now. I think Jacob Bloy is also updating it on vesc.net.au. But to be honest, it might take a few days, that task isn’t that easy as it seems. There is a bug free standalone version on github (which I am using when programming the VESCs we are selling). But in the BLDC tool itself still contains the old one in the corresponding directory on github.
To make it short: if you’re programming your VESC with ST-Link under Ubuntu you’d be able to use the new version, if going through (ported) BLDC Tool versions on OSX or Win it might take some more time for a fixed version. Until then, please stick with the above suggestion of entering the values 10x lower (= 0.00400) in that field every time before pressing “write config”.
I never did this setting it up. I don’t have it plugged in and don’t want to undo my nice duct tape and bubble wrap job so I can’t confirm what “max current ramp step” I have but I know I never did a change there.
Whitepony I haven’t checked the kv. Is it the max erpm divided by 7 simply on full throttle while on the live sample? I’ll check that and my ramp step later.
Maybe elkick checked them. I only ever looked at the resistance and inductance.
How do u record from the vesc so u can later see what youve done in live sampling! That is something I’ve been looking for awhile. With that then we can realllly compare everything
You are right, still working towards the originals (will edit that, mixed the pictures though, these are the first 83mm abec clone tries). Don’t wanted to waste too many expensive original Kegel ones.
Aim: getting the original Kegels to contain an ABS insert fitting to the motors exactly. Needs a lot of tries and error.
Urethan thickness starts with ca. 10mm at 80mm with ABS inlay and increases with wheel size. Thinking of having 80, 83 and 90mm. Need to see if it stays in a healthy relation of efforts and result. Also testing versions without ABS.
now that I’ve sucked some of you in to get these motors the test is on to see what happens. You likely do know these are “experimental”! Feedback is key. The forum makes that easy or email or even call. I think I’ve very likely ridden these more than all of you and things are looking good
…except:
I’ve had two shorts in the leads, one due to not enough shrink wrap and another from trying to contort the lead repeatedly and a magnet wire became disconnected from the main lead and now needs a soldering surgeon to get in there with a thin bit . I tried to bend that motor lead too many directions around the hanger trying to figure where i wanted it to go. Add more shrink wrap and dont try to contort their direction too much
things that have changed with the new steel motors:
they’re all steel so no fear of damaging the shaft
a keyway to hold the stator (i fear for the aluminum version with my epoxy to hold them)
no bearing compression due to high heat expanding aluminum
a lot less heat transferred to the rotor’s magnets and RUBBER.
not noticeably heavier.
look cool and are cooler than the aluminum but I have to do more testing to really see whats going on
how are your motors doing? In my mind as soon as the rubber gets sorted out I’m really happy with their performance. I want the 80 again and am pouring it again but at higher heats it especially is trash quickly. I am finding better stuff and I forget what I’m getting now but heat will no longer be an issue and 80 duro! it’s an actual rubber as apposed to polyurethane (which some people say is not really rubber) and it should have very similar qualities to skate polyurethane. In my calling looking for tech guys at the biggest rubber manufacturers I chanced on one who is a skater and in my explaining the problem while on the phone with him looking at the steelhubs.com website he got excited. He rounded up the other rubber gurus and we did a conference call. they liked the challenge and rose to it and can whip something up. I cant even pronounce it or remember it’s accronym
I’m using just red loctite with the steel no problem so far.
@Hummie I just mounted your aluminum hubs on to my old Randall truck with some red loctite. I’m super antsy to ride these and don’t think I can make it down to the city to meet up anytime soon. So, I’ll at least get a maiden voyage this weekend. Hope they ride as good as they look. And whenever I get my hands on a set of your steel hubs, I think I’m gonna try a 4wd setup for fun and science.
I’ve also been using the red loctite (648) stuff and so far its holding up perfect, survived some rough roads and high heat/top speed runs, so i’m sure it will last till i’ll eventually jump on over to the steel version
Currently configuring the small Winning remote and might even try out FOC but i’m too damn anxious to fry my expensive VESC’s lol. Currently looking for a board to fuse with an enclosure (glass- or carbon-fibre) to make the whole thing a lot more stealthy.
Have been shooting some video too, let me know what you think!
mobutusan and justin am glad you guys got these and are “on the team” . That sounds goofy but I’ve told so many people that if they get the aluminum and later want to get the steel for 225 I feel we’re on the same team. The point of the team…is so we can we get to the 80 motor minimum order to get the steel made. that’s about 7000$. 75$ each is the cost they’ve told me and I think it will stay. The steel are much easier for me to get ready as they have a keyway for the stator so things can be cheaper and a lot less time for me. And red loctite is good with steel on both sides and that’s easy. Point is things are getting easier, …better,… moving forward… the motivation to get the next thing made keeps me coming back to the lowest prices I can do as i have none saved and trying to build a “team” to get the 80 just like we did with the aluminum before.
I’m riding the steel all the time and they’re great but we’re learning through doing and I always want the next better thing and it will be more powerful and a bit lighter. same size.
2mm longer stator, stronger magnets (N48h instead of N45sh…never want to get to 300f anyway! https://www.kjmagnetics.com/specs.asp) that are a bit bigger.
How much stronger will these be and consequently how much cooler…we will see hopefully!!! not to diminish how great the steel are now and I should shut my mouth before things are sold. I have total faith in the mechanical aspect of these (other than the rubber) and am just trying to get more power out of them now.
bigger stator and stronger magnets is magnetic strength so can have a low kv without relying on using many turns of necessarily thin wire. Can have thicker wire, which will have less resistance, and therefore less heat, for the same torque.
the rubber is no good and going to Epdm rubber. polyurethane will always have problems especially if it’s soft duro stuff. mark my words all those companies selling hub motors…polyurethane deteriorates at heat and all hub motors have heat…unless they’re huge and then they arent hub motors but direct drive. you can add a core, but typically it’s a hard polyurethane and that’s the same problem. There’s maybe a core material that could work but I’m not going to go on a long goose chase and just go with different rubber. companies on kickstarter selling polyurethane hub motors…I bet they have amp limits set so low that the performance sucks and yea then maybe you can use polyurethane. I have yet to see a decent test of any hub motor’s rubber. there’s no escaping polyurethanes max temps regardless if its hot or cold pour. I remember seeing a pic of what was maybe the stary board or onboard…some hub motor company, and it had a max temp printed on the outside of the motor, wish I remember exactly what temp it said but think it said 160 or 180f. Idont think I would expect the polyurethane to hold up for long staying under either of those limits
trucks get warm. that’s ok. get an infrared thermometer and keep under 200 really. the motors are good to higher temps with no damage but the rubber deteriorates. keep an eye on it and I’ll see if I can get this better stuff soon.
the glue is high temp epoxy and good for way higher. I have had it give out on me once when I first did the steel motors because they had lots of cutting oil in them I didn’t get out. When the glue gives it’s a slow movement and youre motor wires will get spun slowly around till they unplug. doesnt spin quickly. I’m just using red loctite and it hasn’t given out.
Wow I guess u drilled them out? Did u get them round? Seems a lot of work. Definitely have to get the rubber sorted out There are options and it’ll happen.
It’s perfectly round, done with a lathe and a milling machine. Need to stress test them though. Currently I’m riding 20km per day, so it won’t take too long. But I’m quite confident for both wheel types.
Still, I think the way you’re handling the challenge with the wheels is right - I’m just doing some experiments here. It’s too time consuming to manufacture them like this (unless I’d find a more efficient way).
Currently configuring the small Winning remote and might even try out FOC but i’m too damn anxious to fry my expensive VESC’s lol. Currently looking for a board to fuse with an enclosure (glass- or carbon-fibre) to make the whole thing a lot more stealthy.
