The right motor on the v3 we have has hall sensor issues from heavy sliding and now beeps on and off and doesn’t run completely meaning the drive can’t be used, I tried to run it without the right sensor by disconnecting the right motors hall sensor cable on the left of the circuit board but it just continuously beeps, I don’t think the drive can run without the sensors connected to both motors unless the programming can be altered. When stationary there are some positions where the drive doesn’t beep but if the wheel is moved then the beeping happens. Oddly when I changed the direction by the switch I can run the other motor without the faulty motor and without stopping or beeping most of the time, and when it does begin beeping a push of the slider to accelerate stops it beeping and allows the other motor to turn again. Wierd.
This is why sensors suck… They are probably responsible for a few of the issues on the past models.
Apparently TI has an algorithm that can predict the position of the motor and does not require pesky sensors.
Interesting, never knew about that, gonna look further into that for my own board. I hope the adaptions LW have made for their next version will prevent these issues, I believe they’ve altered the motor contact which I think has been the thing causing the issues. The issues with previous drives were the battery connection and motor wires for me, I never had hall sensor issues.
I assume mine has the same issue because of the beeping? it’s happening more often now. sad that V3s are failing
Either the sensors are failing or the connections are failing. I am going to take apart the motor assembly to see how they are mounting the motors. Not sure if they are rotating over time.
Interesting. This is essentially the identical motor controller found inside the V2 Landwheel.
Yave:
Try this. Remove the malfunctioning motor from the axle.
This requires disconnecting the wires from the circuit boards and threading the wires all the way out of the trucks.
Look at where the wires enter the motor. Can you see bare copper wire in contact with the steel of the motor? If so, try sliding some heat shrink tubing on to the exposed wires. Shrink the tubing with a heat gun and re-assemble.
I’ve never tried it. Let me know if it works.
pk
Have the v4 drives shipped to anyone yet?
They said shipping starts at the end of this month.
Awesome. Have 4 friends interested in buying a drive once I can show them a solid unit.
I’ve been trying to take the hub off for a while, I removed the hub nut and the cables but for some reason the motor just won’t come off. I had to scrape inside of the truck to get the prize the cable out because of the glue and I’m thinking that some glue is keeping the hub on the truck. I’ve been trying to scrape the part by the hub with a small flathead and even tried prying in between the hub and truck but with no luck, LW also don’t know why it won’t come off, any ideas?
Yian
Interesting. It sounds like some time after the V2’s that I received, Land wheel started to Epoxy the wires into the groove in the trucks and may have also applied locktite to hold the motor to the shaft.
Can you post a picture? I’m curious.
So it looks like the heat shrink tubing around the wires was glued into the groove with a soft adhesive like silicone. If it is just silicone, then a small wheel puller should be able to dislodge the wheel from the axle. However, if the wheel is held to the shaft using locktite then it would be necessary to heat the shaft to melt the locktite. Since there are electrical windings involved, the heating could destroy the motor.
What I find interesting here is that Landwheel seems to have decided to use an adhesive to prevent the wires from pulling out of the motor. However, they have applied the adhesive to a loose fitting shrink wrap that will accomplish little if any thing to anchor the wires against pulling away from the motors. At the same time, they may have made the V3 motors un-removable.
It will be interesting to see if the V4 features the same mechanism for securing the wires to the trucks & motor.
both my V3 is having the “beep of death” after a bit of riding. I rode both of them about 5 continuous mile before it started. Those first long rides were great. Now they just sit in my garage waiting for V4 replacements. @Landwheel
Mike, please contact sales rep. directly. They will help you with after-sale service. 
I have. Eileen and Michelle knows I have the beeping problems and told me “I will tell my engineers”. There were no further updates as to what will be done. We are all just waiting again
Hi Mikenopolis Have you bought two V3 drive and broken both?
The same problem is occurring in my V3 drive too. It’s only one yet.
When I turn on the power of my drive, it will beep soon and I can not ride. Although the remote control is paired.
I also contacted Michelle and waiting.
We have changed our control panel , the blue one , use new system , with no beep noise , we need time to test , to make sure is good , pls wait for two weeks , we will send the new panel to the people who have beep problem and make the video to teach how to change the panel
Yup, BOTH of mine rides for a little bit then beeps and stops responding to the remote until I reboot…then after a minute, it does it again. I was so hopeful for V3
Both drives worked well for about 5 miles before it happened. I’m glad they are working on the fix, hopefully this V4 board would also fix their horrible breaking as well and be their final product.
THIS is why Mellow took so long and cost so much, good R&D takes time and money