@pkasanda I don’t have a broken LW drive, but I would like to see 4WD electric skateboard. It seems to be extremely fast.
So does the noise really come out of the components inside the casing? Is there a way to reduce it?
/u/esk8jpn - a 4wd board is possible and Landwheel has said they are working on a user friendly way to do this in the future. You might wanna reach out to Juan @ Griffin boards (griffin-boards.com) , he was able to get 2 Onan X2’s hooked up together to make a 4WD.
/u/Ezekiel28-17 - the noise comes from the ESC , not much you can do about it except to possibly replace their ESC with a VESC and run in FOC mode.
Is anyone else here from the UK?
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Hey Detroit: I looked at griffin-boards.com. Did not see more than one drive on a skateboard but did see a top speed of 12 mph. Wow. That is slow.
Read up on FOC that you mentioned in your post. Interesting. Better low speed torque, lower top speed, VESC runs quieter but hotter. Interesting trade offs.
I live in UK / London
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Hey Guys, today we are going to share 3 test videos with you：
Video 1: Remote Direction Problem Solved Video 2: Blocking Test Video 3: Vibration Test
Any suggestion, please leave us messages .
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Do some steep hill tests, get heavy riders or weights to test the drive with a large load.
Oh and for a vibration test, find some cobble stone or rough pavement to ride on at high speed.
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Count my V3 in for the long beep failure. Consensus is that the hall sensor shit the bed?
I’ll confirm in a second, but the second pin is missing the wire. That is the temp sensor. You can check that out in the schematic of the Vesc. It does not matter without one. The ESC just does not know the temp of the motor.
Agree with Pantologist. Testing needs to be real world. Steep hills, heavy riders, rough roads, cobblestone. pk
Thanks. Good to know. Did you find documentation for all six wires? Link?
pk
Hey Rhino:
Once you video the problem to prove to Landwheel that the unit needs to be replaced, can you try three experiments please:
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Try disconnecting both sensors. In the V2, you needed to cut off the shrink wrap and use a jack knife to peel off the glue and pry apart the connectors. I’m curious if the drive will operate sensorless.
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Disconnect the left side only, including the three motor wires and sensor. Reconnect the right sensor. Does one of the motors now operate with the remote?
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Opposite experiment as #2. Connect the left side, disconnect the right. Does one of the motors now operate with the remote?
What were you doing when the unit failed?
pk
Interesting. So 1 is power and 6 is ground? Do I read the schematic correctly?
pk
Yes pin 1 is Positive 5V and any arrow out is just Ground.
Mixed up Sensor wires? Unless they are intentionally mixed up? Temp wire and Blue sensor wires are mixed up. Seems like the orange wire indicates the temp sensor wire since it is obsolete on the ESC input.
