Looks awesome man I love the new deck!
I have a vendetta and just bought those same 107s last week lol twinsies
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i just bought them now, even though i don’t need em it’s a ridiculous price. Lol tripletsies
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Horray, more changes- dyed all my nylon parts: precision washers, risers, handle. Only thing was that the front nylon riser warped off the bed, and I was nearly out of filament so I stopped it right after a few layers filled in the outer edge that interfaces with the deck- instead i’m stacked khiro wedges ontop of the partially complete nylon insert, and these things are solid… just as I had intended for the nylon riser to begin with so i’m happy.
Riding without soft risers reminds me how agile and responsive a board can be, it’s amazing… Things aren’t as buttery smooth now… but I feel super stable at speed unlike before without the wedge and soft risers taking away all my control.
I love how the black drop-through insert portions interface with the top of the deck. I really hated the bottom mount on a drop-through look. While it’s not aesthetically perfect, it’s aesthetically good enough for me.
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Yep, I bought them, too last week. A guess the warehouse doesn’t always know what they’re listing, or mis-lists things, but in this case you actually get what is advertised.
Question, I keep getting ABS over current faults. Before I dig in, what should I be looking for exactly? On each vesc I am running:
Motor Max 70 Motor Min -70 Batt Max 30 Batt Min -10 Sensored FOC 10S4P 25r
The board never cuts out during faults that I can tell, I may have gotten 2 or 3 of these errors in the app over the past two weeks of almost daily riding… The most recent fault happened at 0 RPM, 0 duty cycle. The other fault that happened a week or two ago I thought was due to too high motor Max and min, since according to the logs it happened during breaking, but no vesc cutout. So, those got turned down from 80/-80 to where I’m at now, but it must be something else, since logs say I wasn’t moving when this happened.
I have a few adapters between my battery and VESCs… Could adding capacitors between my VESCs and battery help? Dunno how I’d fit them, since I’ve used nearly all my space in my enclosures, but I’d consider figuring something out if caps would help with this. Does anyone add caps between VESCs and motors? It’d be easier to adapt caps on the extensions that run from my VESCs to my motors in a 3D printed enclosure mounted to the rear. … ?
Finally, if this issue really isn’t giving me much trouble, is it common to get a few ABS over current faults occasionally… And should I be worried?
I got to ACE hardware right as the gate was closing tonight, so I kajiggered some idler bearings onto my torqueboards mounts with what I had laying around. I got some skipping on 15/32 gearing without idlers, can’t wait to try these out…
Do you guys think these belts are too tight? Think the M4 bolts will hold up over time?
With m4 bolts tightened down hard to stay straight, motors slid as far toward the hangar as possible with the m4 socket head in the way, and 265mm belts, this is as loose as I could get the belts. If they need to be looser, I’ll go ahead and file down the socket head to make room for more slack. Here’s some more pics:
Idler bearings fit perfect inside the pulley covers I made for the 20t motor pulleys
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Look a bit tight to me, one of the main advantages of idler is to have looser belts. Doesnt look like you have many options to adjust the tension though, I would try with smaller bearings if you have them on hand.
I think the M4 bolt will be good if its a high grade one.
What are those spacers you have on the wheel pullies?
I made those spacers with ABS to fit into the flywheel hubs, space the pulleys from the hubs an extra 4mm, and to center the pulleys a bit.
Hey, yeah it was a bit tight for sure. Today riding around, I could see wear on the outside of the belts within a few minutes. I pretty much rode to the hardware store, grabbed a metal file, came right home, and filed down the bolt heads a bit so the motors could slide back a tad to allow more slack in the belts.
I think it’s much better now, the belts are flexy when pressed, and I could go even a tad looser, but I’m going to try the in-between tightish to loose tension for now.
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Based off of this thread, I ordered one of these guys. Well, it’s in the country now and I feel the pressure to come up with a suitable mount for the thing.
I will be the first to admit, this is not pretty, and I do not like it. The final design will only be printed when I am happy with it looking nice, but first and foremost it has to be primarily functional over everything else. So if for some crazy reason I can’t make it functional and pretty at the same time (not likely), I will 100% prioritize functionality and durability first.
Assuming I am going to be using M8 socket screws or something of the like for the sphericals. I plan on using spacers between each side of the sphericals, a clamp mechanism of some sort for the hangar portion, a screw on extension thing for the outside of the wheel that I can bolt the mount onto from the outside, and bolt the damper to the mount with spacers mentioned before.
This is just a really really rough concept of how I kind-of plan on laying it out. I tried all manner of simpler mounting, but it just won’t work with the board in most of the other possible orientations, or at least this seems like the cleanest, and strongest way so that the damper is out of the way of my feet and adjustment knob still easily accessible. Wish me luck… when I have the damper in the next few days i’ll be going out to grab suitable hardware, and draw up the final design with measurements based off the hardware I get and test fitting the physical damper to my actual board rather than a drawing.
I plan on printing it in nylon (I love this stuff) and dying it black to match everything else.
Some other updates to the board, I removed the green printed cable router. It was taking up too much space that I used to dewedge the rear truck with a randal 35 base/wedges down to 25 degrees. Stability is great now, but doing this because I want more stability if possible! I don’t want any twitches if i’m riding with traffic at 45, save for a stray boulder or pothole, you know.
I’ve also done away with the idlers… they were nice, but I shredded 2 belts just braking gently over the course of a few days. I’ve also swapped gearing to 20/36, and plan on swapping back to 20/32 potentially if the damper works for making the thing feel even more crazy stable than it already is so I can get back up to the 48-50mph speed.
Ah! Also swapped rear bushings to dual riptide 93a WFB chubbies, and dual 90a WFB barrels in the front. These are some solid bushings. Still great lean, but just more stability compared to my old venoms. 
Ah! *x2, also swapped all my cups for flat washers… trying to reduce rebound as much as possible and this worked wonders for doing just that, and again, further improving stability. I think all my instability at speed is just purely fear from the crash I had a few weeks back… still getting my nerves chilled from that one. Every time i’ve felt out of control since the wreck has been 100% mental. gotta get past that mental block. Gotta get back to that feeling I had before, but with all the additional confidence in the performance and stability improvements this thing has compared to how it was setup before. we will see…
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About the motorcycle damper, there are prettier alternatives. Check this out
I am pretty sure thats the legendary madman @Nowind
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Are you referring to the blue box thing on his front truck?
I think that was the rear truck, but yes.
Finalized the mount. Not pretty. But functional, and easy print for nylon. Got the hardware for it today… damper came in today… cant wait. Tomorrow morning hopefully I can bolt it all up without any hiccups.
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Well. I had a few hiccups. The hangar mount portion was way too small. Had to file it down quite a bit to squeeze it over the hangar. Plus, it’s on the wrong side. A few holes were very tight, as I forgot to add an extra .2mm space in a couple spots… Besides all that, everything fits together perfect- it’s so tight and solid at this point.
I’m re-printing the hangar clamp portion with a bit extra space carved out so it can fit tight but not too tight without any filing to fit, and mirrored so it’s on the side I intended it to be on. Once that’s done I’ll hook up the board mount portion and screw it all down.
The range of motion seems just right, if not maybe a tad bit restrictive, but it looks like it’s going to work well.
I’ll update later on when this mirrored hangar mount finishes and everything is properly bolted up.
I intend to use a shorter screw on the hangar mount, but for now this was the only way I could clamp it together, had to use a much longer screw to capture the nut because everything had to bend out so much due to the hangar cutout being too small.
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I am way too happy with how this turned out. It doesn’t have any effect on the feel of the ride on low, but can limit the speed of your turn as easy as turning a knob, literally. Ahhhhh!!! Ah yiiiiiissssss mmm and I think the black dye really helped!
:
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This is one of the most original ideas i have seen about here in a while. Hows it handling?
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On the carpet I can’t tell any difference on low other than when turning the damping up high, feels like it will be very stable. I’ll update in about an hour, taking it on a grocery run now to try it out.
I’ll be honest, I’ve only rode a mile and a half and I can tell this is going to take some getting used to.
With the damper turned all the way down, it almost feels normal. The board is responsive, but not nearly as much so as without the damper: almost like there is 2% lag. It’s still 100% rideable and 99.5% controllable.
Once you start turning the knob, it almost feels less stable for two reasons: the rear is not dampened. Even though I’m running chubbies and 25 degree rears, it feels like I have the feeling of being unstable, just because I am used to a looser rear being more unstable, but when riding that’s not the case, it’s just not an intuitively stable feeling, even though it’s really hard (impossible) to induce instability/wobbles if I try. Secondly, because the front truck has the opposite of rebound when the damper knob is turned to high, it’s almost like the board has a mind of its own. It will tend to feel like it’s wanting to go the direction you were going before, which throws my mind off. It doesn’t give with the foot feeling / second hand nature of skateboarding I’ve built up my whole life. It doesn’t mean it’s bad, it’s just not something I anticipate… It doesn’t feel ‘natural’.
None of this is to say “bad” though, I am just going to have to re-learn a bit like when you first hop on a freeboard or onewheel- you don’t exactly know what to expect, and you have to take time to get the feel for it.
Thankfully it feels great turned all the way down and still makes the board feel much more stable still. I will probably ride it all the way down, for now, turning up the notch by one every few rides to gradually work my way into “feeling it”
P.s: cracks, bumps, uneven pavement seems just fine… The board tends to just roll straight over everything, lol, which is different too.
Okay, confession time: I don’t like it. I feel much more unstable with the front being so “stable”. I will be taking it off and trying a design on the rear instead. I could definitely use more resistance in the rear with so much leverage on the 25 degree plates. Having the front be able to turn how you need when you need it just makes so much sense for stability, and this doesn’t have it. I can 100% see this making a useful difference in the rear as opposed to just being different, and thus unpredictable feeling on the front, when I should have turn as quickly and suddenly as I need it for both minor and major adjustments to course.
I chalk this one up to a failure, for now. More to come.
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